Lancer Power Windox Break and Fix

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JAP63

E III Recaro Pilot
Joined
Oct 9, 2005
Messages
2,073
Location
Gold Coast
I've got no doubt someone else out there has had this happen to them, or may potentially have it happen

The other day i put the drivers windows down (on auto)..it got to the bottom, dropped and clunked. As if I'm not busy enough now i gotta fix ****!:fuuuuu:
Anyway, when i got the door trim off i thought id find a bunch of cables gone haywire and **** absolutely everywhere...but to my suprise, mitsubishi made this really simple...for once.

The rubber coupling inside the drive gear of the motor unit had gone to ****. The rubber drive coupling is bonded to a steel shaft in the centre, and after years of use it had obviously had enough twists and finally de-bonded from the centre.


I though it would be easy to just pop it out and put a new one in, thouh theyre not able to be dismantled...
In the end i got the unit out from the door (quite easily i, was suprised) and decided to repair it.

In the pic you can see that the new coupling is an amber colour resin, a mate has all this gear so one was done up pretty quick, its around 70 Duro on the hardness scale and should outlast the rubber thing that was in there..keying the urethane to the centre shaft is the only important part, the rest is pretty straighforward.


If anyone has any stuffed units and wants similar done, let me know, i got no idea of the replacement cost of this unit, youd have to buy the whole gear unit though..


Jamie
 

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I have two of these in the shed any was tinking of doing something the same.........let me know if it lasts will you because i was worried that as the load came on the electric motor when it reached the full travel of the window it would not have enough compression in the stuff i was going to used and it would just burn out.
 
BMGTZ said:
I have two of these in the shed any was tinking of doing something the same.........let me know if it lasts will you because i was worried that as the load came on the electric motor when it reached the full travel of the window it would not have enough compression in the stuff i was going to used and it would just burn out.


Yeah i figured that the window knows to stop driving through the load transferred back through it.
I tested the motor on a bench and held the triangle drive shaft on the back over a dozen times in a vice to simulate it, both up and down...it didnt budge.
 
Interesting.
The drivers side window always seems to go.
I actually had the same problem, however mine was even simpler than that.
Of The 4 teeth on the back end of the actual button itself, one had snapped off, which meant it couldnt 'link' on to pull the window back up.
So all i needed was a replacement button.
Just another side point to note :)
 
on the weekend just lubed all the mechanicals of the window winders and cleaned out the door rubbers and window seals, its never been so quiet and smooth and quick going up and down :)
iits just one of those things thats been pissen me off for ages But never think about doing it when Ive got time.
 
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