Looking for a 4G63 to rebuild.

4GTuner

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Hey Jack,

#1 Combustion chamber came in at 48.5cc, this compares to the factory stated 47cc for the 1g head. My piston/deck is 0.05mm and the Wiseco dish is around 23.5cc. The head gasket I guessed to be 1mm, its a cosmetic layered S/S.

Im happy with 8.5:1, leaves a bit of margin for error in tuning. Will probably need to screw the off boost ignition up to offset sluggishness in the low rpm, but really guessing at that sort of stuff. Given i'm setting this engine up for pump only fuel, I am defiantly staying below 9:1.

Progress will be in spurts mate, it's been a good week. Waiting for some gear from fellow 4Gtuners over east to show up, but then be tools down till about May.

Question for anyone: What other options are there for the GSR rear diff when running a EVO3 g/box? Can you buy a 3.9 pinion gear that bolts on to the GSR center? Can you buy after market GSR 3.9 LSD centers (cusco/kaaz etc..)? Or, am I forced to play the 'WTB EVO I/II/III rear diff with shafts' game?
 
A complete evo rear dift that has a plate lsd will bolt straight in.....no need for shafts to be changed.

A viscous lsd on the other hand does need shafts...just so happens I know where there is one of those. lol. i also might know of an open 3.909 as well
 
A complete evo rear dift that has a plate lsd will bolt straight in.....no need for shafts to be changed.

Rocking horse shit yeah? Google laughs at me when I type it in.....

A viscous lsd on the other hand does need shafts...just so happens I know where there is one of those. lol. i also might know of an open 3.909 as well

I'm hacking of my left nut with a blunt rock as I type Brian. Has it got a $ on it?
 
First born named in my honour......

lets talk.....it wont hurt too much!! I have no need of more nuts as mine are in the wifes hand bag any way
 
Well he's 11 now, but he loves his new name!

No jelly beans for you if your wife see's that comment :)

I'll sort you out for it mate, your only a charity when it comes to all your hard learnt knowledge. ;) give us a buzz when you've got some spare time.
 
I take it all back about Harris. They let me down.

No.3 rod doesn't clear the block. Mo.fucker

Stripped the bottom end and have to attack it with the die grinder myself.

Bastards. Not happy.
 
That blueprinting book talks about clearancing blocks. From memory he suggests 1/8"? And using a desired size drill bit as a feeler stick.

What's that? Um 3mm, sounds about right. i dunno if i would want to run much closer than that
 
3mm ...wow that is more than I would have called for .....In the toyotas when we used to stroke them in the 2T with 3t cranks. we only left 30 thou{.75mm} in that spot....if a crank pin moves more than 30 thou it is usually on its way out of the block anyway. We reved those engines to 9200 in rallies all day and night.
 
I would have been happy with a poofteenth, but I didn't even get that.

I have attacked it with the die grinder, but will have to wait till after work to wash the block down again, blow it all out, dry it again..........etc....

I love paying people to do shit that you end up doing again yourself.
 
It's funny with the block clearances.

My first stroker didn't clear the main caps with an Eagle / Stock 100mm crank combo.
My second stroker cleared without an issue. Same parts!

The blocks must have differences from the factory.
 
It's funny......
The blocks must have differences from the factory.

Funny alright Barry. After closer inspection tonight, it was No.3 rod interfering with a part of the block casting at about 3 o'clock on the rotation (if you can picture that?). The other rods cleared the same area by heaps. So hacked that with the grinder as well. Short block is reassembled and spinning freely. Some of the oil squirters needed a little tap to stop them rubing on the counter weights too.

Still cranky, if you pay for clearancing of rotating parts, you would expect to be able to assemble your short block and have it spin.

Will have to find something else to start on now. Might get stuck into customizing my custom intake mani.

 
Here's a hard to work out picture of what I was trying to explain above. The lower yellow circle shows the normal bore area that needed clearing, the upper yellow circle shows the other area of contact. This was hitting the rod about where the caps meet.

Clearencing.JPG

Some other photo's of the head. Got new some 3g HLA's 'cause I hate lifter noise with a passion

Head.JPG

BC springs and retainers fitted. Waiting for Baz's Cams

Valve springs.JPG

Sadly my desire for LSD's out weighed my desire for a head job. Or maybe I didn't spend as much as I should have, in order to keep getting head jobs, can't remember which one.... but I got stock valves because of it.

CC.JPG
 
Thanks Baz. I was having a look back through your AMG thread. What sort of numbers did you end up getting out of that set up?
 
When i had that setup in the VR4 it made 330kw at the wheels @24PSI. On the AMG it made 290kw at the front wheels on 17PSI.

Differences being.
-Stock AMG intake manifold vs extrude honed AUS spec manifold
-Stock valves vs 1mm oversized
-air to air vs water to air
-tubular exhaust manifold vs 6boost manifold
-std tb vs xf tb
-hks272 cams vs fp3 cams
-Motec m4 vs Autronic SM4
 
Thanks Baz. Those fp3 cams are the CC101300 spec? (with respect to degreeing in)

Some more, not so informative pictures.
Need an alli welder to glue the re-decustomised custom intake. Don't know if I'll use this or not, it's setup for an SR20 TB which I don't have. I might waste some time tinkering with a stock tb and see if there are any improvements to be had. Or maybe a magna jobbie. Or I could spend more money and do it properly........nah.
Intake mani2.JPG
Intake mani.JPG

And the clipped wing sump. It was made up for a RWD conversion, but after a quick cut and shunt should still fit ok in east-west install.
Sump.JPG
sump2.JPG
 

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