lowering engine on mounts....std bonnet

4GTuner

Help Support 4GTuner:

BMGTZ

Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
Joined
Mar 9, 2007
Messages
4,555
Location
southside of perth WA
After completing an evo conversion on a gsr, a fellow has asked me to lower his engine in the engine bay so as to be able to fit the standard bonnet.

I have thought about making spacers for the front mount near the timing cover and the gear box mount. then spacing the north/south cross member {which the roll stoppers bolt to} down by the same distance.

Has anyone sucessfully done this and how thick will the spacers need to be?

brian
 
Its been done a Billion times just cut the support web on under side of the bonnet above timing belt and leave your timing belt cover off. piss easy thats it.
 
when ours was done the mount near timing cover was cut and welded about 10mm lower. timing cover would just rub on the standard bonnet. this is a vr4 4g into the gsr
none of the other mounts were touched
Dave
 
this is using the evo 123 mounts so cutting of the mount is out......as is cutting the bonnet rib. cutting the bonnet rib over here will earn you a defect even if there is nothing else wrong. he is looking for a route that is a little less obvious to the boys in blue
 
I can see what you are suggesting as an idea and I don't think it would be wise, it will mess with everything in a bad way; wheel alignment, handling, strength, exhaust, drive shafts, I'm not trying to shut you down just I don't see this as something that will work successfully.
 
Richard said:
I can see what you are suggesting as an idea and I don't think it would be wise, it will mess with everything in a bad way; wheel alignment, handling, strength, exhaust, drive shafts, I'm not trying to shut you down just I don't see this as something that will work successfully.


its been done before over here.....just cant get in touch with the fellow that did it. so was asking if any one here knew how thick the spacers need be.
wheel alignment shouldnt be affected
handling.....well who knows....lower front centre of gravity by 12 mm?
strenght ....yep long term could be an issue on the longer bolts
exhaust has a flex joint so no issue there....except reduced ground clearance
and drive shafts have enough take up in the inside cvs


Ive seen it driving and spoken to the guy....no vibration. the issue he did mention was the top rad hose was a pain to fit for some reason.
I will let you know i guess if if works
 
what about an evo bonnet? i know thats not what you are wanting but they do improve the look and cooling
__________________
THE POWER OF 4G









none around over here......plus the command a hefty price.....cheapest ive seen was 600.....usually 800/900
 
Well ask your mate how long his drive shaft seal last for ;)
Its bodge full stop, bite the bullet and go the way Mr Mitsubishi intended.

Sounds like Perth cops are worse than Sydney cops and that's saying something
 
VR-4Squid said:
Only thing I'd be worried about is sump to ground clearance!

I think is only 15 mm??? but yeah if he lowers it as well it could be an issue.

we will have a go anyway.

bm
 
Lowering the engine messes with the front end geometry and dynamics and as mentioned can place your shafts at a weaker angle or ruin seals. Incorporate the fact that it could then mess with your hoses or cooler pipe lengths, wiring, clearances and exhaust angles as well. Not saying that it will do all this, but it will effect some of them. Once you custom make engine mounts it will also need engineering OK. Pray no one notices if ever you were a cause of an accident. Best and cheapest and easiest way is to get an EVO bonnet or make a bonnet hump in the existing bonnet... eclipse style :) Thats just my opinion anyway.
 
I agree with everything Rob has said and will add just tell us if you do it how long your drive shaft seals last before pissing oil out and I hope the owner keeps a diligent eye on fluid levels in his box.

In my opinion your just skating on thin ice trying to do it the hard way which in the long run will cost you more in the long run

Do it right the first time round and save yourselves all the time effort and $ later on down the track.
 
Brian, your left driveshaft will have a dogleg in it and CV's will wear out out sooner. That's why its not recommended - as well as the handling. Sure you can do it but hey? :eek:

cheers
 
Mrs_LJ_GSR said:
like i said mine has been dropped about 10mm. 130 000k's done and the seals and cv are fine..
what... you've done 130kms with the engine mounts being lowered 10mm must be a high km motor then
 
how about an EVO bonnet with all the vents filled in (if he wants the stock look) ?

use a fibreglass one and it should be pretty traight forward .... ?
 
G5R5OL said:
how about an EVO bonnet with all the vents filled in (if he wants the stock look) ?

use a fibreglass one and it should be pretty straight forward .... ?

The whole issue is the owner is a tight ass and would rather spend more time on forums asking questions about how to get around modifying "custom bro'ing it" rather than buy a evo bonnet weather it's a fibreglass or oem alloy evo bonnet

I like you idea though G5R5OL but the said owner has 2 20Cent coins to rub togeather and ask the forum genie's :fuuuuu:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top