Magnatec Oil......

[4piknup]

It evaporates cause its magnetic and sticking to the inside of the block.
You will have litres of it stuck uverywhere.

I use penrite in the bike too...some of it has no friction modifiers so is ok with wet clutches

 

[86psi]

I'm running castrol edge 10w as well seems ok so far

 

[deepsouth]

I put some castrol edge in last night, so far so good, revved well,and engine seemed much quieter, it needs a change add the oil when i cheeked was mega black so will princely go with edge,10/40, but after reading this maybe the hpr is the way to go, may just do that and see how it goes.

 

[EVOCPE]

Castrol Magnatec is good for later model engines and not suited to our engines, full stop. I've ran it in my daily Nimbus (4G64 2.4L) and Ralliart Magna (3.5L) and even though its OK, it evaporates into thin air. Fuk knows where it goes??? it just goes lol.

To be honest I originally ran Castrol Edge 10w-60 and my engine loved it. It sounded good and revved very freely even for a thick oil. Oil temps were good too.
I then switched to Penrite HPR10 10w-50 because people were raving about it, but I noticed that the engine didn't like to rev as freely or quickly anymore and the oil temps were higher than Castrol Edge.
Go figure... so for my engine at least, I'm going to try something else. Micks Motorsports recommends one of the Shell oils for the 4G63, so I will need to find out what it is and give it a try.

Shell Helix HX7 K 15w-50 is what Anthony runs, Shell also makes a Shell Helix Ultra Racing 10W-60 which may be decent

 

[captainTeeBag]

Would someone like to explain why Magnatec is crap?
Other than personal preference of course.
I'd really like to know why this crap kept my stock bottom end engine alive for over 5 years or abuse at my hands!

probably because you looked after the thing properly and changed it at proper intervals. anyways its pretty old tech now and modern synthetics are far better at lubricating and reducing engine wear. thats why i think its crap. maybe i should say not very good rather thsn crap. sorry mate

 

[brisvr4]

First good reason that I've read so far. Well thought out and written!
I've moved on from it anyway now ta I exclusively run E85 I'm trying penrite racing 10tenths. I'm also adding extra zinc to it to help my journal bearing turbo live longer at the boost levels that I like playing with. Think 35+...

 

[captainTeeBag]

First good reason that I've read so far. Well thought out and written!
I've moved on from it anyway now ta I exclusively run E85 I'm trying penrite racing 10tenths. I'm also adding extra zinc to it to help my journal bearing turbo live longer at the boost levels that I like playing with. Think 35+...

thats alot of boost. interesting you say that as i remember reading a link on i think amsoil website or something like that and these guys were running similar boost to you and tried some different oils during dyno pulls then inspected the journal bearing. the zinc definitely helped. if you want an oil with high zinc you should check out brad penn oil.i think they call their high zinc oil the green oil. its super high in zinc mate and botcher performance parts out ipswich sell the stuff

 

[turbovr4]

what oil works for you can have so many factors, I know people that use magnetic with no trouble because they change their oil every 5000km and some are not daily drivers. For ten years I was driving daily from Strathpine to Brisbane and used penrite Hpr 15 non synthetic in those days. at the 300,000km mark in 2001 I pulled the motor apart because the dipstick kept popping out at 15psi boost. I reringed and bearinged the motor and found the crank journals were still a mirror finish as well as the cams,Main bearings were light grey but evenwith no scoring, that was 50,00km ago. I clocked up around 550km a week in city stop start and weekend drives and only changed my oil at 15,000 to 20,000km which was once a year. lifters still quiet and turbo not puffing any smoke. trust me I didn't idle the car in the mornings, just drove semi sedately from start up and only idled down about 30 sec to 1min at the end of a trip. I have had the same motor since 1992 from Alljap northside. bought the second VR4motor in 2001and alternate between the MG and the Eterna now to keep the km down.

 

[EVO-00X]

Shell Helix HX7 K 15w-50 is what Anthony runs, Shell also makes a Shell Helix Ultra Racing 10W-60 which may be decent

Are you sure that's the stuff that MM recommends for the 4G63T? :blink:

 

[captainTeeBag]

turbo vr4 is right. there are so many variables to consider when choosing the right oil.climate is a big one as is engine wear. id stick with what mmc recommend if the car is under warranty but after 100000km bearing tollerances change so should your oil. full synthetic should be used in our motors without a doubt and the 4g63t even in standard spec is still more or less a race motor with a big turbo so it gets fricken hot! id never go for an oil though with anything higher than a winter rating of 10. cold start up is when the most engine wear occurs and a lower winter number (first number) means that the oil is going to lubricate better during startup. 5 is probably perfect! 0 would only be necessary if you lived in scandanavia or somewhere extremely cold.In qld summer i use penrite 5w60 known as sin5 or premium 5. it has full zinc and is shear free meaning it is very stable at extremely high temps and the oil has the scope for good cold start protection and also wont thin out on a hot day. for winter here a 5w40 or 5w50 is good

 

[captainTeeBag]

i also change the oil and filter every 3000km or 6 months. usually in 6 months id be lucky to do half that. its expensive but so is a rebuild!