No don't have to remove front cover to replace crank seal. Seal flicks out easily with a small flat screw driver if you don't have a seal remove tool. If you don't butcher the old seal too much then you can use it to help push in the new seal which is not a press fit. I also applied a thin film of gasket sealant around outside of the seal before fitting just as a precaution.
Oil leak on RVR ><!
- Thread starter RVR97
- Start date
Help Support 4GTuner:
not sure if u have already bought the bearing/pulley for the timing belt tensioner arm, but make sure it is not GMB JBT356GMB, or CBC#60TB034B. was sent this part which is believed to fit a 4g63 in a L300 van or a cordia as indicated on the box. not sure if i gave the correct part number in this topic or another topic but have since ditched the bearing box.
No i did not use a balance shaft eliminator kit.
If you are going to replace your water pump then do yourself a favour and adhere the gasket to the waterpump a couple of days prior to installation. this way the gasket wont move around like a frigid bitch when you are trying to line the bolt holes up! If you find the waterpump to be a tight fit between the block and the chassis rail, then raise/lower the engine ( or in my case i used the car jack to raise/lower the body with the sump supported) until you find the sweet spot where the pump is able to be moved into position.
the location where i sourced the manual is :
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.htmail
think someone else may have already quoted this location as well. cheers.
No i did not use a balance shaft eliminator kit.
If you are going to replace your water pump then do yourself a favour and adhere the gasket to the waterpump a couple of days prior to installation. this way the gasket wont move around like a frigid bitch when you are trying to line the bolt holes up! If you find the waterpump to be a tight fit between the block and the chassis rail, then raise/lower the engine ( or in my case i used the car jack to raise/lower the body with the sump supported) until you find the sweet spot where the pump is able to be moved into position.
the location where i sourced the manual is :
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.htmail
think someone else may have already quoted this location as well. cheers.
oldmits
Member
Hi Guys I have been reading your posts on oil leaks regarding 4G6X motors Regardless what car they are fitted into The number one oil leak is and not many people realize that it may happen is the adjusting bolt for the "B" belt pulley (Small Belt ) At any time when removing or adjusting the balance belt all ways apply a good quality sealant to the threads of the bolt As being a Retired Mitsubishi tech i have seen this so many times Balance belt breaks due to belt covered in oil but the main belt is dry A easy way to check is to remove the the bolt and pulley and let sit for a hour or so and you will see how much oil comes out of the hole ( Imagine that under pressure ) But still make sure also that all gaskets and seals are in good condition B)
RVR97
Well-Known Member
Hi oldmits, thanks for pointing out!
My rvr leak oil like a running tap
, and I hope its the adjusting bolt for the "B" belt pulley (Small Belt). I'm still researching on parts and how to put things back on correctly...
My rvr leak oil like a running tap
, and I hope its the adjusting bolt for the "B" belt pulley (Small Belt). I'm still researching on parts and how to put things back on correctly...oldmits
Member
Hi oldmits, thanks for pointing out!
My rvr leak oil like a running tap
Yes its the adjusting bolt for the 'B' belt small belt make sure the thread is sealed check this link out
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html
with or without the shafts make sure it's sealed
RVR97
Well-Known Member
Is this the bolt circle in red that you're referring to? What sealant should I use?
I'm going to read the link you provided, Thanks!
RVR97
Well-Known Member
noted;
THE BALANCE BELT TENSIONER PULLEY HOLE: The balance belt tensioner pulley mounting hole WILL leak oil if you don't seal it. Either get a shorter bolt and don't use the tensioner pulley, or reinstall the tensioner pulley and original bolt. No matter which way you do it, make sure so put RTV on the threads of the bolt to seal it, or you'll have a nasty oil leak and have to tear it all apart again.
THE BALANCE BELT TENSIONER PULLEY HOLE: The balance belt tensioner pulley mounting hole WILL leak oil if you don't seal it. Either get a shorter bolt and don't use the tensioner pulley, or reinstall the tensioner pulley and original bolt. No matter which way you do it, make sure so put RTV on the threads of the bolt to seal it, or you'll have a nasty oil leak and have to tear it all apart again.
oldmits
Member
Is this the bolt circle in red that you're referring to? What sealant should I use?
I'm going to read the link you provided, Thanks!
I think we have a misunderstanding Its the bolt that houses the Bearing With the blue seal in the picture the sealant that i use is three bond this sealant is what Mitsubishi uses just cover the bolt from the head to the end of the thread
RVR97
Well-Known Member
Well it has been a while now and the car is still off the road. I finally got the balancer shaft n oil pump bolts undone... new oil seals will be swap in soon. Unfortunately I can't loosen the crankshaft sprocket bolt to change the seal it's just soo damn tight!; I was wondering is the crankshaft bolt is to be undone in anti clockwise direction?
- I did tried to trickle the starter from one of the forum memebr suggested, it seem to be too weak to undo the bolt. I charged up the car batt over night, and still can't undo the bolt.
- I purchased the special md metal tool to hold down the crank sprocket and tried undo the bolt with a torque wrench and a metal tubin. The special md tool bended...
-, I ended up putting on the head block with no lifters (lifters out for cleaning) on it, slap back on the old timing belt, tensioned the belt. Got some tools to hold down the cam gears, used the torque wrench and tubin, still can't undo the bolt
Any suggestion?
- I did tried to trickle the starter from one of the forum memebr suggested, it seem to be too weak to undo the bolt. I charged up the car batt over night, and still can't undo the bolt.
- I purchased the special md metal tool to hold down the crank sprocket and tried undo the bolt with a torque wrench and a metal tubin. The special md tool bended...
-, I ended up putting on the head block with no lifters (lifters out for cleaning) on it, slap back on the old timing belt, tensioned the belt. Got some tools to hold down the cam gears, used the torque wrench and tubin, still can't undo the bolt
Any suggestion?
4piknup
master of none
Yeow, I never had one the starter won't undo.
Auto one has breaker bars that are maybe a metre long in 1/2 drive for less than $50. Cheapest I seen, and longer than the one I have. Try one of them and the starter tickling, maybe connect a second battery like a jumpstart.
They are normal thread lefty loosey, righty tighty
Auto one has breaker bars that are maybe a metre long in 1/2 drive for less than $50. Cheapest I seen, and longer than the one I have. Try one of them and the starter tickling, maybe connect a second battery like a jumpstart.
They are normal thread lefty loosey, righty tighty
RVR97
Well-Known Member
The torque wrench i got here is near a meter long 80cm??? with 1/2 drive + a solid metal tube, maybe is a two man job to undo the nut.
oh i simply turn the key on while the head block is off...and Jack did u meant when you were doing it while the head is on, and combustion in the process?.......
oh i simply turn the key on while the head block is off...and Jack did u meant when you were doing it while the head is on, and combustion in the process?.......
4piknup
master of none
Head on, head off, don't matter.
Bloody hell it must be tight.
Bloody hell it must be tight.
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Almost 3 months gone by and you still dont have it sorted? :blink: :blink:
4piknup
master of none
If it that tight the starter won't undo it, you going to need a good rattle gun, maybe 3/4 drive, or pull the sump and put a piece of wood between crank throw and inside of block.
The 3/4 drive electric rattle guns will do 400nm when new without a wobbly end on them.
I have never had one the starter won't undo.
The 3/4 drive electric rattle guns will do 400nm when new without a wobbly end on them.
I have never had one the starter won't undo.
BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
when you tried the starter method....did you allow any swing / rotational room on the breaker bar you insert into the square drive whole of the crank bolt. OR was the breaker wedged in firm without any room to rotate?
if the later.....then it wont work as well as allowing 1/4 turn of rotation before the breaker bar strikes something solid.
if the later.....then it wont work as well as allowing 1/4 turn of rotation before the breaker bar strikes something solid.
4piknup
master of none
Hopefully not the back of the headlight. Lol
RVR97
Well-Known Member
I was away on holidays for a month, and was researching on parts and info what I needed. It's time consuming and I'm a first time mechanic that's an exceptional :lol:.... now the car under body is full of redbacks :lol: Once the seals are replace, I hope I'll get the torque settings on the nuts/bolts (ill use permatex blue, I dont have a blow torch so no red for me) and timing correctly. I HOPE <_<
The moment i turned the key the crank sprocket turn clockwise, and the breaker bar should needed to be turn anti clockwise to undo the bolt. Brian I had the bar held in place beside the steering knuckle, no room/rotation for the bar to move. Maybe I should try having the bar lean against the ground, will keep you guys update on that tomorrow.
The moment i turned the key the crank sprocket turn clockwise, and the breaker bar should needed to be turn anti clockwise to undo the bolt. Brian I had the bar held in place beside the steering knuckle, no room/rotation for the bar to move. Maybe I should try having the bar lean against the ground, will keep you guys update on that tomorrow.
RVR97
Well-Known Member
I charged up my rvr batt and had a car doing the jump start, still can't undo. Can anyone else confirm to undo the nut it goes anti clockwise? I don't want to go buy a rattle gun than find out it won't open the nut ><
RVR97
Well-Known Member
Heres my bended md tool while attempting to undo the crank bolt :lol:
http://www.compct.com.au/car/md.JPG
Can't open the crank bolt with the starter...
http://www.compct.com.au/car/starter.MOV
http://www.compct.com.au/car/md.JPG
Can't open the crank bolt with the starter...
http://www.compct.com.au/car/starter.MOV
BMGTZ
Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
mate you must allow some movement of the breaker.....wedged in there like that it will never work!!
take it back up near the cv shaft so that it has at least six inches of travel before it hits the concrete
take it back up near the cv shaft so that it has at least six inches of travel before it hits the concrete
