Opinions on GT30/40's on 4g63's?

[Fugitiv]

"freak" as in its been tuned and detuned several times and the more it got pushed the more it is still holding up after all this time :lol:
Thats a sign of a good healthy OEM engine. But you have got to be realistic and understand that you simply cant expect to push OEM engines further into this territory without dramatically increasing the risk of engine failure.

Lol yeah well that's all good assuming it's driven regularly. Mine is a vr4. They never see more than a few days on the road per year. Lol
That and the absolute bargin im getting everything for, the bottom end can wait.
I'm Not trying to go any quicker than high 12's.
So with the 30 I should be able to do that safely. If it breaks in the process, so be it. Lol

 

[EVO-00X]

Im a bit confused. Why go to the extra expense of a Garrett turbo, T3 manifold and dump pipe to suit when you can get into the 12's using turbos that bolt onto the existing OEM Mitsu manifold? (with much more usable powerband and less lag).
Go visit GTPumps.com.au website and have a look around for bolt on goodies

 

[Dean]

a TD05 + Boost will get you into high 12's!!

 

[Fugitiv]

Im a bit confused. Why go to the extra expense of a Garrett turbo, T3 manifold and dump pipe to suit when you can get into the 12's using turbos that bolt onto the existing OEM Mitsu manifold? (with much more usable powerband and less lag).
Go visit GTPumps.com.au website and have a look around for bolt on goodies

Let me clear it up then.
I could just repeat what my mates are saying in that i've got to much money...

BUT...
For the price im getting the GT30, custom made manifold, and dump pipe for, is less than i've paid for a few injectors in the past. For all the work carried out by a professional i'd be crazy to pass it up.
My current Manifold needs porting to match the TD06, my dump pipe needs bending, my I/C pipes need relocating, and it's internally gated which i just don't like.
The prices to fix these minor problems, is still more expensive than getting the Garrett.
The whole point of my starting this thread was to find out what i'll be expecting with the gt30.
If Lag is the answer, i'll just have to rev it a bit harder. No problem there. lol

Hope that clears it up a tad?

 

[86psi]

I reckon forget the turbo and spend the $$ on building the bottom end to be reliable first.
Even though Ive seen healthy stock bottom end 4G63T's making 315kw atw on 24psi with a GT35R you cant run those boost figures all the time and have to tone it down for normal use. It's fun when its boosting but its a bit of a laggy bitch with a not-so-good power curve when its not.
Check out TOYGSR vid below which is a friend of mine. It runs a stock Evo engine (OEM head and bottom end), custom exhaust manifold with GT35R, external wastegate, 1000cc injectors, Microtech ECU, 24psi, AWD dyno. Its been rather freaksih for a stock engine with just bolt ons and ran an 11.7 quarter. The owner is smart enough to know not to push it any further :lol:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ZGuMy7nlhg

well this is very interesting as i have a evo 3 thats been running 21psi on a 20g for years now and am about to strip my vl turbo down and sell the parts and was thinking bout putting the billet t66 on my evo cause id never get my money back on it.

the t66 spools up at lower rpm on a vl then a 35/40 with 1.06 rear housing and made 285 kw at 11psi on my vl so this thread has really caught my eye as all i would need is a new manifold i can do the cooler pipes and dump pipes as i got spare material from when i use to do coolers and dumps on the side, so in other words it will cost me sweet fa to do the conversion i just wonder if this will get me from running 12.4 into the 11 second zone which is my goal

does anyone think this would be worth while or not oh by the way the car isnt a daily driver at all

 

[ONPSI]

Depends what you call lag...I'm running a GT30 and my full boost is (4.5k 22psi/ 4.3k 14psi) with highway driving i'm out of my powerband so i'd clearly have to downshift to over take or flat foot and wait for the boost.. However my redline is 8.5k so i can push it hard if need be. I don't always feel the need to drive it hard though i have self control and drive on low boost 90% of the time anyway.
My car has been built for drag over track so response isn't my main worry, You just need to decide what your final outcome is.

 

[Fugitiv]

Depends what you call lag...I'm running a GT30 and my full boost is (4.5k 22psi/ 4.3k 14psi) with highway driving i'm out of my powerband so i'd clearly have to downshift to over take or flat foot and wait for the boost.. However my redline is 8.5k so i can push it hard if need be. I don't always feel the need to drive it hard though i have self control and drive on low boost 90% of the time anyway.
My car has been built for drag over track so response isn't my main worry, You just need to decide what your final outcome is.

Well that's excellent. 4.5k isn't that much when you consider your cruising at nearly 3k @ 110. Well i am anyway lol
I can't remember what mine redlines at now, but 272's would see 8k fairly well i should assume.

My final outcome is pretty simple. Something reliably Quick. I'm not talking snap your seat in half, ripple your floorpan quick... more along the lines of dislocate a few disks in your back, snap some axles, quick. lol

Doesn't need mad amounts of boost to do that.

 

[brisvr4]

"freak" as in its been tuned and detuned several times and the more it got pushed the more it is still holding up after all this time :lol:
Thats a sign of a good healthy OEM engine. But you have got to be realistic and understand that you simply cant expect to push OEM engines further into this territory without dramatically increasing the risk of engine failure.

Don't forget that VR4's got the decent rods too
And I always aim for a fairly safe tune with zero knock, it's mainly the knock that kills these engines!
I guess I'll have to put mine of a dyno one of these days to see exactly what it's putting out now. I know how much Ecmlink tells me and apparently that is pretty accurate but I'd get shot down in flames if I mentioned the figure without 'hard' evidence :lol:

 

[ozyvr4]

2 GT30 turbos with mitsu bolt on housings

http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=NTDSMFP3065&Category_Code=DSM-Turbo

http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=NTDSMFP3052&Category_Code=DSM-Turbo

I just bought the FP3052 & will be hopefully fittin the next few weeks. They will bolt on the mitsu turbo mani but will need new dump & needs external gate. I have seen mutilple logs & spoke to alot of users that use this turbo & are very happy. You also still get fast spool . Full boost approx 3800rpm. The turbo I have uses the GT3076 cartridge dual ball bearing. Fp just make a new exhaust housing as they foung the 7cm housing with the 3076 exhaust wheel to restrict it. Now need to modify water pipe of radiator as it fits with room to spare.

 

[milkandoj]

Don't forget that VR4's got the decent rods too
And I always aim for a fairly safe tune with zero knock, it's mainly the knock that kills these engines!
I guess I'll have to put mine of a dyno one of these days to see exactly what it's putting out now. I know how much Ecmlink tells me and apparently that is pretty accurate but I'd get shot down in flames if I mentioned the figure without 'hard' evidence :lol:

Ive been looking at your logs on ecm link, and the amount of airflow you were pushing at 25 and 30psi was impressive.

You really should throw it on a dyno before your new turbo pops it lol!!!!!!!!!!! Get a number for **** factor and show people what these motors can do!

I'm thinking of throwing mine on the dyno in a few months just to get an idea of the conversion of lb of airflow per minute im seeing equates to our dyno number in Australia. Will help me when reading flow figures from the US guys, and picking a flow target compared to the whp i want.

 

[brisvr4]

I actually haven't posted any logs with the new turbo yet Gerard.
I saw almost 57lbs of ariflow last weekend. That made for a really fun ride in second and third gear
I think I'll wait for the next dyno day to pop up before I take it out. My boost solenoid just turned up so I need to tune that now too!

 

[EVO-00X]

2 GT30 turbos with mitsu bolt on housings
http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=NTDSMFP3065&Category_Code=DSM-Turbo
http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=NTDSMFP3052&Category_Code=DSM-Turbo

I just bought the FP3052 & will be hopefully fittin the next few weeks. They will bolt on the mitsu turbo mani but will need new dump & needs external gate. I have seen mutilple logs & spoke to alot of users that use this turbo & are very happy. You also still get fast spool . Full boost approx 3800rpm. The turbo I have uses the GT3076 cartridge dual ball bearing. Fp just make a new exhaust housing as they foung the 7cm housing with the 3076 exhaust wheel to restrict it. Now need to modify water pipe of radiator as it fits with room to spare.

You would be extremely happy with one of those FP3052's if its like a GT3076. A friend made 460hp atw (343kw) with a GT3076 last week at Micks Motorsports
Ive got a GT3082R (aka GT3040) turbo on my little beast which is the next size up. The FP3065 is basically the same specs as this except its made with a turbine housing to bolt straight onto a Mitsu OEM manifold. The GT3082 turbos are in between the GT3076 and the GT35R so Im expecting to make some nice numbers once tuned.
With the FP3052 and FP3065 using the OEM flange mounts and Garrett centre catridges and wheels, they're is no wonder they are so popular with the Mitsu community in the US