Rebuild time.

4GTuner

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I REALLY hope mine aren't bent, it goes in Monday for its rebuild and I'm hoping its just a mix of my valves not seating properly and or leaking valve stem seals. How much is a new set of STD valves for the HSG?
 
Valves are relatively cheap and easy to replace (once you have your head at the shop), valve guides are another story. They cost almost as much as the valves and they are a PITA to replace! Some shops will not even do it :(. But you might not have a choice, when valves bend, they often crack the guides.

That is why when you are looking for a good core head to rebuild, you wan to find one with good guides, keeping the old guides can save you $300-$400 on a valve job!
 
leon r said:
Valves are relatively cheap and easy to replace (once you have your head at the shop), valve guides are another story. They cost almost as much as the valves and they are a PITA to replace! Some shops will not even do it :( . But you might not have a choice, when valves bend, they often crack the guides.

That is why when you are looking for a good core head to rebuild, you wan to find one with good guides, keeping the old guides can save you $300-$400 on a valve job!

I paid $16 a valve so they are pretty cheap, I haven't got my head back yet but I hope he didn't have to replace the guides, the last thing I need is more expenses.
 
So I finally got around to pulling out the block and gearbox today...


That is where the good news stops!

- The clutch is nearly dead and probably wouldn't have lasted another 1000k's before slipping
- I am guessing someone has cranked the car over whilst the head has been off because the timing belt has bunched up and destroyed the crank angle sensor :fuuuuu: ! !!


FML last thing I needed right now was more shit to go wrong!



Is it the same crank angle sensor that is in the EVO1-3 and 2g dsm's?


If anyone has a crank angle sensor that would work please PM me with a price.


Edit: would this one work?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161145901958?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
 
Man that sucks so bad :(

I got lucky and my head was just rebuilt without any major setbacks. Replacement VSS and gaskets, new 3mm lifters and belts all round.
 
Hyper_Mike said:
Man that sucks so bad :(

I got lucky and my head was just rebuilt without any major setbacks. Replacement VSS and gaskets, new 3mm lifters and belts all round.
That's good mate, I went with a Cometic top end kit, I was going to go 3mm lifters, but mine were quiet and I think I will just wait until I save up for cams and do them then.
 
Pretty sure that is the right one. I have one removed from a rvr and its the same. Triangle plug, vertical bolts and horizontal slot for chopper wheel (if sensor is sitting on bench)

Evo1-3 is very different and mounted on the back of head.
 
jack of all said:
Pretty sure that is the right one. I have one removed from a rvr and its the same. Triangle plug, vertical bolts and horizontal slot for chopper wheel (if sensor is sitting on bench)

Evo1-3 is very different and mounted on the back of head.

Thanks for clearing that up for me Jack,
 
I picked up the head today, the bill came to $580 but I needed new guides so that is where most of the cost came from, but at least I have a pretty much fully rebuilt head now.
 
Unless the engine is still in the chassis, just take the two 12mm bolts off and compress and grenade pin it, I use a jack and the weight of the car to get mine down. I couldn't be arsed making a bolt tool :p

When you release the tensioner it should be around 4mm from the top to the contact point where the idler pulley is, just use needle nose pliers to rotate the eccentric and get a bit of pressure on the belt and nip up the bolt.

Unless there is a better, less ghetto way to do it?
 

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