Relocating rear guard/Bumper Bolt

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JAP63

E III Recaro Pilot
Joined
Oct 9, 2005
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2,073
Location
Gold Coast
Has anyone had issues with scrubbing on this small 6mm bolt that holds the rear bar corner onto the quarter panel reo?

I'd imagine a few people would since quite a few gsr/evos have been lowered.....I figure if i can relocate it or move it further back in the guard it would completely take it out of the equation in terms of even coming into the suspension arc of travel, it does only touch when down around guard to centre of 280 mm and less, though if i move it i never have to worry about it touching on big dips etc..

Today i skimmed the corners of the tabs with a grinder then buffed it with a scothcbrite on a dremel, it came up pretty good, i reversed the bolt and added some washers to shim the thread from coming through too far...it has helped, a little


Anyone been here before?

Heres where im talking bout.
 

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ithink most people have that problem, i havent addressed it on my car yet but i think i will have too
 
DOUGMO said:
ithink most people have that problem, i havent addressed it on my car yet but i think i will have too

What sort of guard to centre figures do you expect to reach when driving on the track?
It only comes into play at around 275mm (rolling diameter of 630mm)


So on stock wheels, it would be something like G2C of 260-265mm..ull probly never need to worry, not with the DMS...
 
my car will not be that low for sure, from memory i should be around 310mm centre to guard for the right heights,but i do need the clearance for travel. i have 210x625r 16 tyres (sort of a 215/50r16) and they will be close at a glance
 
Your rolling diameter is 621mm.
At a guard to centre of 310mm youll have around 40mm travel before you contact that bolt.

Getting off topic,but..
For the track you ideally want around 55-60 mm travel (Murray Coote's words himself)

Jamie Drummond seems to think lowering the DMS units 30 mm is best for track, I spoke with him today and he quoted "The E 1-3 Shock has 170mm of damper travel in the case"
Drop it 30mm and youve got about 55mm stroke left in the shock. I say this because from factory, the piston is located around half way up the tube.

It must hold true, cos both DMS and Murray seem to think the same....
Murray says you can drive up a good bit of road with 30-35mm of travel...but dont expect much when you hit a patch of bumps...fair point i guess.


Anyway, getting off topic there.

By the way DOUGMO..how much lower past G2C of 310mm will your DMS allow you to go on the thread/damper? Heaps?
Apparently the DMS shock is 30mm shorter than the stock unit in length..can u confirm?
 
:eek: To eliminate it all together here's what I suggest.

Riv/nut tool, spacer. and a allen key countersunk bolt with matching washer.

Remove the inner wheel arch tab altogether find best spot to put a riv nut into the panel behind the rear bar as close as possible to old location corner, a spacer will be needed in between the plastic bar and the panel behind so when allen key bolt fixing is tightened up it wont pull the bar into the panel and squash it.

Its what all the V8 super cars use to attach bumper bars for the same reason if done right looks very professional ;)

Now on with your quest of hacking up a nice car for the sake of that fulleh sik big rim look, lol
 
Liberoz said:
:eek: To eliminate it all together here's what I suggest.

Riv/nut tool, spacer. and a allen key countersunk bolt with matching washer.

Remove the inner wheel arch tab altogether find best spot to put a riv nut into the panel behind the rear bar as close as possible to old location corner, a spacer will be needed in between the plastic bar and the panel behind so when allen key bolt fixing is tightened up it wont pull the bar into the panel and squash it.

Its what all the V8 super cars use to attach bumper bars for the same reason if done right looks very professional ;)

Now on with your quest of hacking up a nice car for the sake of that fulleh sik big rim look, lol


Hmm, that sounds awfully hard to understand without seeing what your talking about..and its not hacking up an original car, only modyfying the inner guard tab..wont even see it...:p
 
progkamol said:
use a bumper clip ... works really well & easy to do

Again, any more info or persoanl experiences shared would be great..where u get em, what they look like etc?
 
Liberoz said:
Now on with your quest of hacking up a nice car for the sake of that fulleh sik big rim look, lol

Bro, i have to fit em Bro, it will be the hektikest ride ever bro, and if i go low enough bro, it might even crash and bash through every piece of road bro...but it will be the hektikest evalushion three evr bro.:D
 
i know there are probably proper ways to do it, but i done exactly what GSRWRC did. The self-tapper screw has been in there for years, and you cant even notice it there! never scrubbed and this was when my car was dumped on 18s with a full car load ;)

however.. genuine evo iii.. id keep that thing dead stock as a collectors item
 
GSR94T said:
i know there are probably proper ways to do it, but i done exactly what GSRWRC did. The self-tapper screw has been in there for years, and you cant even notice it there! never scrubbed and this was when my car was dumped on 18s with a full car load ;)

however.. genuine evo iii.. id keep that thing dead stock as a collectors item


Yeah im hearing you, i dont really want to hack anything up either, im gonna look at relocating the stock tab, somehow...
If anyone has any pics as to where they put the self taper, Id still like to have a look etc

Thanks

jamie.
 
straight upwards take a look yourself its not brain science ....pfft cutting up an evo sheesh what is this world coming to ;)
 
Liberoz said:
straight upwards take a look yourself its not brain science ....pfft cutting up an evo sheesh what is this world coming to ;)


They cut them in half every day in japan let alone grind a tab inside the rear bar! those are the ones who should be going to hell for their attrocities.:D
Then again, those are the ones that make my car rare, I invite them to continue to cut, cut away my friends.
 
You will find 98% of the ones cut up in Japan have had rear or front enders everything road worthy goes to action or private sale ;)
 
Liberoz said:
You will find 98% of the ones cut up in Japan have had rear or front enders everything road worthy goes to action or private sale ;)

Interesting, maybe thats why i cant find a frigign front bar!
 
Yeah you gotta do something about that E2 front on your E3 Jamie - it just doesn't look right IMO (I'm not knocking your car - it looks good!! just not right!)

In regards to your screw clearance issue - can you use a heavy duty cable tie in place of the screw? That way you shouldn't have to modify anything.
 
ENGINR said:
Yeah you gotta do something about that E2 front on your E3 Jamie - it just doesn't look right IMO (I'm not knocking your car - it looks good!! just not right!)

In regards to your screw clearance issue - can you use a heavy duty cable tie in place of the screw? That way you shouldn't have to modify anything.


hahah, no sweat mate, you tell me where to get a genuine front bar, and Ill buy it...Looked around, I dont know which is harder, bending moment equations or finding a fukn genuine E3 Bar!

Rich has one, I offered on it, I think hes waiting to see if he gets a better price, another member Frosty has one, i havent heard back from him, and thats all I knowe of in the country...Wreckers arent bringing anything in, dollar is being slaughtered!

I could try a cable tie, the thing is though, its the whole tab thats in the way, i might try the cable tie though, and grind the tab back a touch more, if I use a proper heavy duty one (even a stainless one),it might prove ok...Ill have to sort something.
For getting around the street, it has to be reasonably low, or it will look like shit if its high and on 19's.
 

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