Relocating rear guard/Bumper Bolt

4GTuner

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bumper clips are like a plastic screw(or pin) that surround by plastic casing. Most modern cars are using bumper clips to secure the bumper to car body. The car dealers call these clips retainers. They come in different size, length and type for different uses.

What you do is you need to remove the screw (or pin) from the middle of the clip and push the casing into the hole where you wanted to secure it. you then need to push the plastic screw (or pin), push! not screw it, into the middle of the casing. What it does is that the screw will make the end bit of the casing expands and holds the bumper in place. (sorry about the explanation ... couldn't think of how to explain it better ... my brain stop working late at night) ...

Any how ... you can get these clips from car dealer or some automotive stores. At the place where you having problem with are usually secured by bolts. However, I have seen many cars that use clips to secure the bumper at the same place too. Infact, I also using clips to hold my rear bumper. I use the spare clip that I got left from repairing the customer's Magna. They are big and long (which is what you will need for that spot) and it does secure the bumper properly (atleast it doesn't fly off when I went on the track)...

toyota%20bumper%20cover%20fastener%20.gif


Inter-Fender-shield-blind-rivet.gif


honda-bumper-fascia-clip.gif


10mm-nylon-fastener.gif


Hope thats help.

Those are just samples ... there are many different type and shape.
 
Just get a new front bar, they arent that expensive genuine. I know prices went up, but from the last time I checked, they were only about $460 new, which isnt too bad. Only prob is, you'll still need to get the reinforcement etc.

With the rear bar mounting. Is it a genuine evo rear bar. The reason I ask, is that the mounting bolt, that is causing you grief, is actually 10-15mm(cant think off hand) further back than on the GSR bar.
 
Cheers mate, thats good info, ill look into that, I guess I'll just have to size the right one up..


Would supercheap or autobarn be the place to be looking for these?
 
runuts said:
Just get a new front bar, they arent that expensive genuine. I know prices went up, but from the last time I checked, they were only about $460 new, which isnt too bad. Only prob is, you'll still need to get the reinforcement etc.

With the rear bar mounting. Is it a genuine evo rear bar. The reason I ask, is that the mounting bolt, that is causing you grief, is actually 10-15mm(cant think off hand) further back than on the GSR bar.


Yeah as far as I know its genuine, its had a minor repair in that area..ha sanyone got a pic of the difference of a GSR mounting bolt now that you say that..?


Or just a pic of the mount bolt on a GSR?
 
runuts said:
Just get a new front bar, they arent that expensive genuine. I know prices went up, but from the last time I checked, they were only about $460 new, which isnt too bad. Only prob is, you'll still need to get the reinforcement etc.

With the rear bar mounting. Is it a genuine evo rear bar. The reason I ask, is that the mounting bolt, that is causing you grief, is actually 10-15mm(cant think off hand) further back than on the GSR bar.
how much can you get genuine lips for Todd?
 
I'd have to check, I could get them ex Japan considerably cheaper than locally, but with the current AUD, I find that unlikely. From memory, locally they were around the 500-700 mark.
 
I cut my rear tab right off and just drilled a hole through the bar and rear quater, then used a bolt to hold it on.. you can also use zip ties

Self tappers will eventually come loose
 
EVOCPE said:
I cut my rear tab right off and just drilled a hole through the bar and rear quater, then used a bolt to hold it on.. you can also use zip ties

Self tappers will eventually come loose


If you cut the tab off, then how did you drill through the bar? thered be nothing left to secure it to?
I put on of those bumper clips in today, a 6mm one, works pretty good,it may not scrub on the street, theres about 30mm of travel to soak up before it will contact, so if the dampers are fairly stiff, it may rarely touch it.
 
JAP63 said:
If you cut the tab off, then how did you drill through the bar? thered be nothing left to secure it to?
I put on of those bumper clips in today, a 6mm one, works pretty good,it may not scrub on the street, theres about 30mm of travel to soak up before it will contact, so if the dampers are fairly stiff, it may rarely touch it.

good to hear that it works fine for you ;)
 
Just for the record, the guy who had the car before my put zip ties in there.
Luckily i just went out now to check something, and the zip tie has completely ripped the thread out.
Lucky the cars off the road too, otherwise i would have lost my rear bumper somewhere and not even known!!
Lesson 1: DO NOT USE ZIP TIES TO HOLD ON BUMPERS
 
Dean said:
Just for the record, the guy who had the car before my put zip ties in there.
Luckily i just went out now to check something, and the zip tie has completely ripped the thread out.
Lucky the cars off the road too, otherwise i would have lost my rear bumper somewhere and not even known!!
Lesson 1: DO NOT USE ZIP TIES TO HOLD ON BUMPERS
Lesson 2: only use good quality zip ties.

there's a reason why good quality zip ties are expensive
 
Well, i had a spare day to myself and bit the bullet.
I spent a bit of time today and made an alloy tab to relocate fastening the rear bar.

These are only progress pics, but when finished, i will stil have to remove the plastic tab off the bar, then I'm gonna heat the metal tab and lift it up out of the way, that way, if i ever want it to be dead standard again, its just a matter of heating the tab, bringing it back down flush, and bolting a new bar back on.

This is the best way i could see of doing it without butchering and hacking things up..its turned out to be a pretty solid way of doing it, and will be as strong as the original point, if not stronger.

So far so good, il get finished pics soon if anyone is keen to see
 

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