G'day. I have used flywheel bolts twice before and, fingers crossed, the flywheel is still in the car. I use high strength Loctite on the bolts when I put the engine for the rally car back together.
Cheers
Ross
I have read threads from some of the forums in the states who say stay away from ARP flywheel bolts as they are renowned for backing out. I can only imagine the carnage a flywheel would cause if it decided to let go!
3 of the 7 bolts are jammed on real good. even a high power rattlegun isnt getting them off.. ive soaked them in wd40 overnight aswell any other ideas on how to get these pain in the ass bolts off. I think the mechanic that tightened them last time just tightened the fuck out of them with a rattlegun when he did the clutch last..
I hang a chain on the flywheel where one of the pressure plate 8 x 1.25 bolts are, then poke a larger Phillips head srew driver thru a bell housing bolt hole in the block. This locks the flywheel solid when you attempt to crack the flywheel bolt with a "long" breaker bar . It may need a tube on the end to lengthen it. use a short hex impact socket and lean away. its probably been rattled on with Loctite ! You may have to give the flywheel bolt a bit of heat from the oxy to help stretch the bolt a bit.
spoke to the mechanic that did my clutch last time he confirmed it was loctited and rattled... ive gotten a longer pole about 1.5m all up and ill give it another crack this arvo, but the bolt corners have already started to round off so im not liking my chances.
I use a special short impact socket that has been ground down on the hex opening. This ensures maximum hex engagement on those OEM short height flywheel bolts. It gives you another 2-3 mm of engagement, and really helps in not rounding off the head of the really short flywheel bolt.