Smoke haze

[Dave_GSR1.8]

So, coming home from the station tonight, up the mountain, lots of smoke haze, bit surprised by amount of CEL, normally hardly any, tonight like the bad old days before I copied in some basic EVO1 fuel and timing tables from ECM Link; every second time I opened the throttle it came on.

Not the best tune but normally OK; waiting till bigger turbo and WB fitted to get tuned properly (have 609 A/F, front mount, 590 injectors, walbro 255 in tank, upgraded power supply to pump, bigger exhaust already fitted, so last couple of things to be done waiting, sadly, on budget), can smoke haze (pretty bad) really cause issues like this? Nothing else has changed!

Edit: reworded slightly to try and make the post a bit clearer

 

[4piknup]

Compression test, boost leak test and wb sensor.
probably in that order.

are you burning engine oil?

 

[CLuTZ]

What colour is the smoke mate? You sure you scaled those injectors correctly?

 

[Ian91]

The way I read this is he drove through smoke haze and his CEL went crazy???

 

[Dave_GSR1.8]

LOL, wish I was high on something, does seem like an odd question but lots of smoke from parks burning off. Bloody car pisses me off sometimes, CEL hardly ever comes on, but last night came on and off like a blinker, tonight, no problems. I'm saving my pennies for a WB and tune but was just curious as to why it would misbehave like that. I'll spend a day over the long w/e following up on Jack's suggestions, see if I can turn any thing up...

 

[CLuTZ]

Are you logging? What codes is it throwing? Are you running an AFM?

 

[4piknup]

Oh, I thought the haze was from the car....
idk why a cel would go off from driving through smoke.

 

[CLuTZ]

Oh, I thought the haze was from the car....

Ditto!

 

[Dave_GSR1.8]

Sigh, spent two days with my you beaut, whizz bang, home made, boost leak detector, discovering that you need a really big arsed air compressor to make it work, forget the cheap nasty $20 electric tyre inflators, bit embarrased to admit that I had not properly considered volume of airflow...

So trap for newbies, for this exercise you really do need a large mains powered air compressor with a reserve tank and a decent amount of air flow... you can pump a car tyre up with a bicycle pump, but only if it does not leak!!

So endeth todays lesson for the air compressor challenged amongst us.

 

[4piknup]

As you fix the leaks it will build the pressure....maybe.

you can also get those remote air cylinders, fill it at the servo. Or maybe make a hose to work it off the air in a spare tyre. Fill the tyre at the servo.

 

[White Knight]

As you fix the leaks it will build the pressure....maybe.

you can also get those remote air cylinders, fill it at the servo. Or maybe make a hose to work it off the air in a spare tyre. Fill the tyre at the servo.

Watch out Maguiver!!!
Is it possible that your MAF sensor just thought "fuck it!", too much going on in the air for the sensor and now is dirty as well?
Thoughts Jack?

 

[evo-gsr]

Lol ^

 

[4piknup]

Watch out Maguiver!!!
Is it possible that your MAF sensor just thought "fuck it!", too much going on in the air for the sensor and now is dirty as well?
Thoughts Jack?

dunno man, out of my league. Just keep going and monitor.

 

[White Knight]

At my mine site we have machinery f#%%ing out due to silica, lead and other shit in the "air". Quick clean of tps and other componentry and all good again. Always throws a CEL after going through a newly blasted area underground, just a though....

 

[jman_4114]

If there were no codes it may have been phantom knock causing cel flash like that,
whats your knock threshold set to?

 

[Dave_GSR1.8]

Ok, done some checking, compression test, motor warm(ish), 150psi across all 4 cylinders, not as high as I would like but given where I am with ths motor it will do...

Finally managed to borrow an air compressor, got a few leaks, got system to 10psi but would not hold it, leaks as marked on throttle body photos (Biss (sp?) looks stuffed, I can't shift it so will have to get it looked at) .

Question is, can I just block the three open outlets? Throttle works fine, idle and cold start good, I have no idea wha they are for, in fact can anyone identify what throttle body this is (as per third shot) ? I think it is off a Magna (that is what I was told when I bought the car), but I don't know what model.

 

[evo-gsr]

P - Plenum air (this connection sees plenum vacuum as soon as you crack the throttle body open. It is right in front of the butterfly)

E - EGR air signal (this connection sees plenum vacuum after the throttle body is open a little more than the P signal source. Both are very close to the closed throttle position)

A - Fresh air (this connection runs air from roughly 3/4 inch in front of the butterfly and as the throttle body constricts.

 

[evo-gsr]

There is a small o-ring on the BISS screw which needs to be replaced if it is leaking. Should be easy to find one the right size.
Pretty sure its a no 5 o-ring from memory

 

[4piknup]

I filled biss screw recess with silicone. Its meant to be plugged once set correctly anyway. If you cant get it out, just plug it up.

there is a hosing diagram here somewhere that shows where hoses go. It will only give better economy, no performance gains with them connected.
You arent meant to block them, but will be ok for testing.

That will be a fair bit of air leaking from those points. Will be noticably sharper when fixed.

 

[Dave_GSR1.8]

Thanks gents for your help, has got me doing some more research!

I could not find anything in the forum about how to connect up the TB, but I did some digging in the manuals and found a close (ish) match for how the P, E and A pipes should connected (thanks Jamo), see attached. Using this as a guide I have been trying to trace the piping and as far as I can tell everyting is connected as it should be except for the EGR circuit (because I don't have an EGR valve).

So, am I correct in saying that Aus spec GSR's didn't have one (I hope so!!)?

That being the case what are the unconnected pipes for in the second and third thumbnails? The manual implies that these are used for the EGR circuit, which is not in use on my car, so got me stumped!