evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Throttle body shaft seals which is what you guys are referring to, are a very common source of leaks. They are able to be purchased separately to replace them.
Still Not A Re-build, just fixin' things
- Thread starter penngwyne
- Start date
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penngwyne
Well-Known Member
Mine sounds like it's coming from the opposite end of the shaft
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
Any drawings or instructions about pulling theTB apart?evo-gsr said:
4piknup
master of none
I have some seals in a for sale thread. I reversrd the seals when I fitted mine as they are fitted for vacuum leaks not boost leaks.
And the idle screw should have a plug. I just cleaned where the plug goes with a little wire brush and filled the plug hole with silicone. Fixed. Its not like you need to adjust it much.
And the idle screw should have a plug. I just cleaned where the plug goes with a little wire brush and filled the plug hole with silicone. Fixed. Its not like you need to adjust it much.
4piknup
master of none
There is vfaq about tb rebuilds.
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
Sorry I missed this onedeepsouth said:
I guess you have the hose by now?
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
OK Throttle body seals replaced and not so much whistling noise
Found this which is not bad, just slightly different in a couple of areas
http://ca.dsm.org/FAQ/tb-shaftseals.html
The bit about the screw ends being peened over is true for the RVR
You don't just unscrew them, you very carefully grind the peened thread end flush with the shaft first, before even trying to unscrew them.
This preserves the threads in the shaft. (I used a dremmel with a small conical grinding wheel)
I tried a couple of things but finally needed an impact driver to get the screws out (obviously while firmly supporting the shaft so it didn't bend) They are really tight.
If they don't come out easily, (and they probably wont) trust me, that is the way to go before you totally stuff the Phillips head screws.
I would hate to have to drill them out.
A couple of new M4 x 0.7 x 10mm screws went in easily, I used blue wicking thread locker and peened the threads over, supporting the head of the screw.
(You certainly don't want the little suckers coming out)
WORD OF WARNING:
Don't peen the threads or loctite the screws (or even tighten them hard as they do lock in tight)
until you are absolutely sure that you have the throttle plate in the right place or else your spring will open the throttle instead of closing it.
( I did a trial assembly and i had it wrong even though I had marked everything. It is easy to get confused. )
and the seals are quite delicate so be careful when you put them in as the metal bit bends very easily if they are not lined up
Found this which is not bad, just slightly different in a couple of areas
http://ca.dsm.org/FAQ/tb-shaftseals.html
The bit about the screw ends being peened over is true for the RVR
You don't just unscrew them, you very carefully grind the peened thread end flush with the shaft first, before even trying to unscrew them.
This preserves the threads in the shaft. (I used a dremmel with a small conical grinding wheel)
I tried a couple of things but finally needed an impact driver to get the screws out (obviously while firmly supporting the shaft so it didn't bend) They are really tight.
If they don't come out easily, (and they probably wont) trust me, that is the way to go before you totally stuff the Phillips head screws.
I would hate to have to drill them out.
A couple of new M4 x 0.7 x 10mm screws went in easily, I used blue wicking thread locker and peened the threads over, supporting the head of the screw.
(You certainly don't want the little suckers coming out)
WORD OF WARNING:
Don't peen the threads or loctite the screws (or even tighten them hard as they do lock in tight)
until you are absolutely sure that you have the throttle plate in the right place or else your spring will open the throttle instead of closing it.
( I did a trial assembly and i had it wrong even though I had marked everything. It is easy to get confused. )
and the seals are quite delicate so be careful when you put them in as the metal bit bends very easily if they are not lined up
4piknup
master of none
I still have seals left over.
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
Final check found a leak at the o ring mentioned before, replaced and all seems well now
System now holds pressure OK with a very slow reduction over a few minutes
Replaced front strut caps as the rubber in one of them was staring to separate from the metal around the top
Looks like I might have to replace the front shocks as well as there seems to be some fluid leaking bugger
Naracoorte autos let me use their new u beaut bench mounted spring compressor and it was a lot easier and quicker (and safer too)
Never a dull moment is there???/
System now holds pressure OK with a very slow reduction over a few minutes
Replaced front strut caps as the rubber in one of them was staring to separate from the metal around the top
Looks like I might have to replace the front shocks as well as there seems to be some fluid leaking bugger
Naracoorte autos let me use their new u beaut bench mounted spring compressor and it was a lot easier and quicker (and safer too)
Never a dull moment is there???/
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Question being......are you actually getting to the end of all the things that need fixing?
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
Sorry Jack, seals arrived before I saw your messagejack of all said:
Doesn't look like it yet. Still thinking about replacing struts. The front end isn't bouncy yet so it may be all right for a while. Still pulling the struts out isn't too hard, just have to do wheel alignment again.evo-gsr said:
Looking at KYB and trying to work out some prices
This doesn't look bad for OEM but I may have to order more than 2???
http://en.gforceparts.com/search?q=MR333574
BTW I didn't know the LH strut had an eccentric bolt for adjustment. I do now. Needed a bit of wriggling to get in and out. Was tempted to hit it with a hammer but glad I didn't.
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
Thanks Jackjack of all said:
This is the one I found somwhere in the forums, and it is still supported.
http://ca.dsm.org/FA...shaftseals.html
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
No still not finished!
Chasing another annoying sort of rumbling in a tin tank noise.
Using the ear on the end of a long screwdriver chased it down to the a/c tensioner pulley rumbling.
I had previously replaced the pulley bearing and when I took it out was stiff to turn (which I vaguely remember was the same when it was new)
The new bearing has a c3 marking on the box and spins quite freely
I didn't know there were different types of ball bearings! I do now.
Still learning at this late stage in life!
Chasing another annoying sort of rumbling in a tin tank noise.
Using the ear on the end of a long screwdriver chased it down to the a/c tensioner pulley rumbling.
I had previously replaced the pulley bearing and when I took it out was stiff to turn (which I vaguely remember was the same when it was new)
The new bearing has a c3 marking on the box and spins quite freely
I didn't know there were different types of ball bearings! I do now.
Still learning at this late stage in life!
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
Despite the long silence I'm still here.
I'm looking for info about the BOV on the RVR
Still chasing a slight whistle when under boost and find that the BOV (original plastic one) leaks under pressure.
Doing a leak test with all the BOV pipes still connected to keep the valve closed.
More pressure - more leaking
I assume this is not meant to happen and wonder what the forum guru's would suggest as a replacement.
I basically want a "plug in" replacement çoz i can't be bothered to rearrange the plumbing
I'm looking for info about the BOV on the RVR
Still chasing a slight whistle when under boost and find that the BOV (original plastic one) leaks under pressure.
Doing a leak test with all the BOV pipes still connected to keep the valve closed.
More pressure - more leaking
I assume this is not meant to happen and wonder what the forum guru's would suggest as a replacement.
I basically want a "plug in" replacement çoz i can't be bothered to rearrange the plumbing
CLuTZ
Diamonds are forever....
EVO 8 MR
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
What he said ^
Benzo4gT
Operator
They work perfectly, it holds more boost than my turbo will ever make, or more accurately, than my engine will put up with. Here's a link to ebay
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubishi-Evo-8-MR-Blow-Off-Valve-EVO-4-5-6-7-8-9-EC5A-EC5W-Galant-Legnum-BOV-/272132484824?hash=item3f5c5c2ed8:g:H94AAOxy4fBTk936
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mitsubishi-Evo-8-MR-Blow-Off-Valve-EVO-4-5-6-7-8-9-EC5A-EC5W-Galant-Legnum-BOV-/272132484824?hash=item3f5c5c2ed8:g:H94AAOxy4fBTk936
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
What a ripoff !! ^
