Still Not A Re-build, just fixin' things

[penngwyne]

Good info thanks. Just too damn cold to be enthusiastic.
Will try replacing the bearing first and then do the dye test.
I think it was working OK just making a noise.
Incidentally also too lazy (and cold and sick) to fix intermittent squealing belt which I now suspect is the power steering pump as it's the only one I haven't retensioned yet.

Sick by going to upullit in Adelaide and getting wet and cold getting bits for the 525i Bimmer

Also incidentally isn't it amazing the difference it makes to your fuel consumption when you've forgotten to replace the air filter and you can't see light through it?

 

[penngwyne]

Bit of an update
Actually managed to unbolt the A/C compressor and get the pulley off without taking the pipes off
Getting the pulley off required a block of wood and a hammer 'coz the pulley had locking compound on the inside of the bearing.
I guess this stops the bearing from rotating and stuffing up the alloy nose of the compressor
Putting it back on was hard to not get the fresh locking compound where it shouldn't go and the pulley got a little bit stiff but it came good with a bit of turning
I had the system tested, a new condenser and re gassed and it seems to have stopped making the noise

Found my oil leak too, it was the rubber half moon plug which is now an alloy one
NOTE: the one I got from Meek was very tight and broke the inside edge off when I tapped it in so I probably should have filed a bit off the inside to make it a bit looser
anyway a good coating of Wurths sealant with the remaining edge on the inside fixed the leak

 

[penngwyne]

I forgot I had another oil leak because I hadn't tightened the rocker cover bolts enough and a coolant leak that got worse and worse

Of to my friendly Naracoorte Auto Services to pressure test the radiator and definitely loosing pressure but nothing falling on the ground
David (part owner) said look at the heater hose at the back, and that is where the coolant was just peeing out due to one of those wire hose clamps
And the coolant was going on top of the trans. Replace both hose clamps on the engine side and problem now fixed. Happy about that!

I'd have some trouble without these blokes as they let me use their workshop for the occasional slab of Bundy Red or Coopers light.

The 5 series has been off the road since March having various stuff done
Among which was dismantling the brakes, cleaning out the brake cylinders front and back and replacing the boots and seals
When I saw the rear brake cylinders full of horrible brown gunk I had a pang of conscience as I don't think I have replaced the brake fluid in the RVR for a llloooonnnnggg time.

 

[penngwyne]

Latest issue handle on sliding door broke and I couldn't open it from outside

If this happens to you you need to know the inside trim is in 2 parts and you only need to take the TOP piece off
There is a Phillips head screw to take off in the inside trim on the back half of the door
Can be accessed with the cover off the mechanism and a dumpy phillips head driver between the body and the door
Then take out the trim clips, (its really best to have proper trim clip tool) and take off the top trim
One of the rods you can see has a plastic clip looks like it is screwed onto the rod, you can carefully squeeze the end of the clip and push it out (mine is blue)
The other rod can be more easily accessed when you take out the handle.

10mm 1/4 drive socket with extension is good

Take off, but don't disconnect, the inside handle. You should now be able to get to the three bolts holding the outside handle in place

When you take the handle off you will easily access the 2nd rod. This one DOES NOT PUSH OUT OF THE HOLE
Undo the clip where the rod passes through it and then pull the rod out of the hole leaving the bushing in the handle.
(Keep the handle you might need the bushing as it may be a separate part)

I guess assembly will be the reverse as I haven't got my replacement yet

My new handle is coming from Parts Souk , via fed ex from the UAE. Shipped on 10 July expected on my doorstep tomorrow (13th) before 5pm.. I will be impressed
About USD 30 with freight about USD 15

 

[bazeng]

This is a common issue. There are 3 I've seen to date with this problem. Thanks for sharing.

 

[penngwyne]

Handle arrived Monday am, all the clips etc came with it, The white bush for the 90 degree bent rod is already fitted
I didn't use the other one as I didn't want to mess with the adjustments

Be careful not to drop the bolts into the door (I didn't but it was close)

The soft part of the door card (where the phillips head screw goes) was bit of a pain to clip into place, but skill and swearing managed it

 

[penngwyne]

I'm amazed I haven't posted in this thread since July 2017
HSGR has been running well (and still is)
I didn't have any son's car in my shed for a while
The BMW went to Adelaide and I was rejoicing at the amount of space I had
2 weeks later I have a Galant VR$ again (that should have been a 4 but I liked the look of it)


Quote from 26 June 2013
"I have decided not to pull the thermostat housing off just yet. I might have fixed it while re doing the water pump.
Wont be able to tell if I have fixed it until I get all the hoses and stuff back on."

I should not have been so lazy!

Although it's not a huge leak it is there, as the red stain on the bolt head underneath shows
Hopefully it is the seal to the thermostat housing and not a leak in the pipe going across the front of the engine
It will be a job for the next TB change coming at 200K (I'm up to 170K now)
Starting to look for parts soon

Probably going to need new shock absorbers/struts front and rear too

Been thinking about getting something a bit more modern and a bit more fuel efficient
BUT
Can't find anything that I like as much as the RVR to drive and I HATE the look of some of the modern cars (eg Kona)

Wonder if there will be electric conversion kits with super efficient batteries in the future?
With small 40 Kw motor for each wheel would be about 200 HP to the road. A range of over 500Km would be good too.
(50 Kw per wheel works out to about 270 hp. Sounds easier than all the engine and gearbox work needed.)
Just imagine the acceleration! If we want to keep up with electric cars at the traffic light this has to be the way?

Electric Conversion?? Topic for a new thread in the future??

 

[penngwyne]

Haven't posted for a while
The leak in the previous post was because I was too clever and got original spring clamps when I replaced all of the hoses.
That was silly.
Replaced the O ring in the thermostat housing and all of the spring clips on the hoses with worm drive clamps. No more leaks.
It was really the clamps (I think) but while I was in there I thought I may as well do the o ring.
Flushed all of the red stuff and replaced with green stuff.

Was running well until one day BANG! Car jumped sideways and stalled OMG!
I tried to start it but it made a horrible rattle. NNOOOO! Tow truck job.
Up on the hoist next day-----Harmonic balancer had failed and the pulley outer was flopping around between the engine and the side of the car.
Not enough room for it to fall off luckily. My Mech got onto his computer and I had a new one next morning.
Fitted new balancer and everything was OK.
Very lucky I was going around a corner in town and wasn't on the highway I guess!

 

[4piknup]

I thought the bang was going to be valves when you said harmonic balancer. Phew!

 

[penngwyne]

I thought the bang was going to be valves when you said harmonic balancer. Phew!

Late reply sorry bout that Jack

I've heard they don't go bang when that happens, they just stop, Still bang is not a good sound.

I've decided to just keep HSGR, as I can't see anything modern I want to drive.
Maybe when I get too old to drive it will be a collectible car. I see 1988 VR4's coming out of Japan for $12,500 recently.

Just replaced the front disc pads and rotors on Friday. it was worth doing. Again my friendly mechanic let me use a hoist while his apprentice was away.
Pleasant day without too much stress. Cleaning off the rust was the most time consuming bit. Replaced the brake fluid too, as I was feeling a bit guilty about that.

Next job is to buy some new suspension struts as the front LH one has let go. Probably get KYB's as they were OEM.
Then 200.000 Km service later this year and replace timing belts etc as per usual, plus maybe a couple of oil seals.

Still has the occasional lifter rattle maybe I'll replace them too, or is it a case of not original without the lifter noise?

Having had some computer problems I'm going to have to reinstall my ASA but windows10 or whatever they call it now doesn't seem to respond to the crack
I'll have to put it on my Linux computer as I'm sure i had it on before and it worked OK.
Going to have to go and read the instructions on how to do it. (it was along time ago)

The VR4 is out in the rain ATM as the shed has a Kawasaki ZXR 250 having a timing chain replaced. (for a few too many months now)
Anyone know how to re-rivet a tiny morse chain that has to rotate at 19,000 rpm? I have no confidence in my ability to do that just now.

Hope everyone is coping with lockdowns etc and staying COVID safe. Get the Vax as soon as you can. Had my second AZ couple of weeks back.
Keep safe and don't lick anyone.

 

[4piknup]

Split the cases and do the chain without cutting it. Or .. I think there is a tool available to do the rivets.

Regards fuel economy... Working EGR is worth a couple of mpg when on cruise.
Also, using gears to slow down utilises fuelcut on decel. That saves a little fuel too.

 

[penngwyne]

Happy New Year Everyone.
Got an unexpected present from my son at Xmas. Daughter (living at home) Positive, me and wife negative, but still had to quarantine. All of us (except son) double vaccinated.
Today is first day out since Xmas after a negative rapid test.
Rules changed again Monday but I thought FxxK it I have things to do

Split the cases and do the chain without cutting it. Or .. I think there is a tool available to do the rivets.

Regards fuel economy... Working EGR is worth a couple of mpg when on cruise.
Also, using gears to slow down utilises fuelcut on decel. That saves a little fuel too.

Got brave, borrowed a tool and riveted it. Case split was too hard and as cases are factory matched a bit hazardous if you get it wrong. There is no gasket of course.
I'm trying to work out why it's always been so hard to start at the moment

EGR I must look into.

Currently replacing all the struts with KYG excel G which is what was on it, the rears even had mitsubishi part numbers.
Did rears with car on ground. Love the RVE clearance. Luckily dust covers were still flexible enough to get off and back on without tearing.
Got Nolethane bump stops for the back, which fitted after trimming a little off the tops. (Bloody hard stuff too)
Waiting a KYB SB 5057 boot and bump stop kit for the fronts.
Trish at SA suspension Centre was a great help. as was Beth at KYB in Melbourne, in tracking these down.

Forgot to mention I replaced the starter motor as it was still turning very slowly after replacing the battery.
Brand new one so I hope it isn't causing this!
I now have an intermittent fault where the car will click when the key is turned but the starter doesn't go.
It starts eventually (so far) after several attempts but it's a worry.
Battery terminals cleaned and spotless and tight. (first thing to check always for electrical faults)
Next step might be the starter relay?
When you think about it the car is now 25 years old so got to expect a few bits failing?

Ah well I guess I'm slowing down too and I must expect a few things to wear out eventually

 

[penngwyne]

I think I found my starting problem on the motor end of the ground strap.
Turns out the bolt wasn't tight
Cleaned the connection and put some grunt into the bolt and haven't had a problem since.
Cheap fix.

 

[penngwyne]

Coming closer to 200,000Km
Now trying to find a timing belt kit with tensioner. (It's that time again)
OMG the genuine tensioner is $535 from the dealer, (don't think I'll do that)

Too many choices out there in Gates and Repco world.
Of course Gates don't seem to know RVR, and certainly not HSGR. Repco think they do.

I'll do the water pump as well, of course.

Need to do a service on the A/T, at least another fluid change. Last one was 100,000 K
Question what ATF can I run in the A/T that is the equivalent of SP2 (which Mitsubishi don't have any more)

Does it have a filter that needs replacing? (never been done)

BTW the starter hasn't skipped a beat since my last post.

 

[morechunch]

penngwyne, you might know. I am about to change out the alternator on my 94. It looks like the easiest access is from below but I will have to remove the oil filter, which means full oil change and that's fine, I planned on doing a year's worth of maintenance in a couple weeks, but the oil looks very clean and it would be a shame if there was an easier way to get to the alternator.

 

[morechunch]

Got a Dayton 4L390 belt to replace the original, which is a little shredded. 39 inch V belt. Left my notes at work with all the parts and tools, so I don't have the Mitsubishi belt part number off the top of my head. I compared part numbers and ultimately measured it by taping a piece of soldering braid to the belt and hand-running it. So I have the right alternator and the right belt. My mom wants a ride in it by the 3rd, I think I'll have it apart and back together by Friday night if things don't go too far sideways with my workload. Supposed to get some cloud cover on Friday, the asphalt today was spicy.

EDIT: It is insured and I have until mid-month July to get everything else inspected and in compliace/registered, but Mom doesn't need to know the struggle. She just needs a nice trip down to the lake and back, that's a tougher deadline than the DMV has given me.

 

[penngwyne]

penngwyne, you might know. I am about to change out the alternator on my 94. It looks like the easiest access is from below but I will have to remove the oil filter, which means full oil change and that's fine, I planned on doing a year's worth of maintenance in a couple weeks, but the oil looks very clean and it would be a shame if there was an easier way to get to the alternator.

That is stretching the old brain a bit.
Never had the alternator off, but I know the tensioner was easier from underneath.
I had the PS pump off once, and I seem to remember the alternator mounting bolts being easier to see? (could be wrong)
Don't forget to disconnect the battery before taking the alternator off.
There isn't much room between the terminals and the dipstick, don't want any blue flashes.
I do oil and filter changes every 10,000 Km or 12 months at least.
I should probably do them every 5,000 Km as most of my time I'm around town and that is considered adverse conditions. (I'm lazy)
Hopefully oils have improved since 1997.
I don't drive the little beast very hard, as it is now 25 years old and I want to try and preserve it as near original as I can for the time being.

 

[morechunch]

I'm charging a secondary battery just to move it around.

So, of course I'm not going to zap myself, thanks for looking out for me, but there is old-school tension on the alternator mount with a... I dunno how to describe it technically. You can tighten it to a point on an arc. No spring, the mounting position is where you decide on tension.

Whoever had this before me really went to work at it in the worst way. Everything is over-torqued. I, a friend, and a friend of a friend couldn't even get the oil filter off with a belt wrench, visible signs of something with teeth cranking it on it. The clamps for the battery terminals are entirely chewed up as well, in an insane fashion, like a weird car-based horror movie took place. It looks like somebody had better or worse tools than me and just would not stop using them.

Tightened to tight, not to spec, was what I heard in the murmurings. Full on nightmare, except for the fact that it runs so well with a fully charged battery. I won't make my deadline, but at least I can hand over parts and measurements when I find the right garage.

I think two things happened. First, this vehicle sat in snow, maybe more than once. Second, this vehicle's failure was an alternator, and whoever had it last... just did some nutso bonkers work on everything because they were mad they couldn't find an alternator? The damage is really strange.

 

[morechunch]

I took my RVR over to the parents' as I promised, and trickle charged the battery there. My dad pointed out something interesting. He doesn't think the terminal clamps were chewed up by tools, he thinks they exploded from reverse polarity. He doesn't think I could have made it there if the alternator was failing 100% of the time. He pointed out a huge doming gouge on the negative side that he doesn't think a tool would do, and the rest of the damage is all little domes everywhere, if that makes sense. I still need a new alternator belt (have one) and still have to figure out how to install that, but his suggestion was to get those cables/clamps changed and see what the alternator does.

EDIT: Stores are closed for the holiday, and I'm gonna be swamped at work tomorrow over it. Doesn't change the over torque situation with everything from the oil filter to the lug nuts that I broke off and retightened, but it's a fix that needs done and might as well start with.

 

[morechunch]

I have a shop ready to work on it. Drove the 20 miles round trip to get the inspection done, inspector called me out of the driver's seat to just talk about the engine, he was excited. Looking at Honda Civics all day probably does that to a guy, I was happy to get out and talk to him. Battery after round trip was down to 62% and 12.4 V. Around 45 miniutes total on the mean streets, with a second no-jump startup and no electical failures. Maybe it is just a bad belt. But I won't have a guy who actually knows what he's doing look at it til next week.