rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
Do you get up northside at all in your travels?
Stuff I Kinda Need , Any Help
- Thread starter Seano_boi
- Start date
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Seano_boi
Member
been so busy its crazy , had turbo australia check the turbo , they said its fine now , but just lets see , lol
and nah only on special trips . lol
and nah only on special trips . lol
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
Did they spin it up and check the balance of it?
I am curious as to why some of these Chinese turbos seem to flog out so quickly. I suspect that they are either not balanced from the factory, or the bearings in them are just plain crap.
I am curious as to why some of these Chinese turbos seem to flog out so quickly. I suspect that they are either not balanced from the factory, or the bearings in them are just plain crap.
Seano_boi
Member
no i dont think it was checked for ballance because it was checked with measurements just on the bench but he did say it was the best quality knock off he has seen yet because its all within factory tollerences . but then went on to tell me some horror stories , and they aint pritty ! ! .
the guy said to me that they are usually not measured for oil flow , and people use the bolt that comes with the new turbo thinking its the best for the job only to find that its not , lol , and starves the thing slightly of oil .
a quick check of my bolt when i got home ( just for my own curiosity sake , lol ) and the hole in the new bolt for the oil to go through was smaller than the factory bolt .
i dont know why they do this , after some phone calls to different mobs , a guy from coopers plains said that most of those bolts have the same threads and the hole is different and its most likely that this mob has picked up a heap of bolts and not realised the hole is not the right size .
running the factory bolt seems to be the go . i have emailed a bloke in sydney who is running the same turbo for about 6 months and seems to think its fine .
? ? ? ? i dont know it all seems to make sence .
the guy said to me that they are usually not measured for oil flow , and people use the bolt that comes with the new turbo thinking its the best for the job only to find that its not , lol , and starves the thing slightly of oil .
a quick check of my bolt when i got home ( just for my own curiosity sake , lol ) and the hole in the new bolt for the oil to go through was smaller than the factory bolt .
i dont know why they do this , after some phone calls to different mobs , a guy from coopers plains said that most of those bolts have the same threads and the hole is different and its most likely that this mob has picked up a heap of bolts and not realised the hole is not the right size .
running the factory bolt seems to be the go . i have emailed a bloke in sydney who is running the same turbo for about 6 months and seems to think its fine .
? ? ? ? i dont know it all seems to make sence .
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
Be careful when you tighten up the factory banjo bolt that bolts the oil line to the head, the large hole in it makes it weak and its very easy to break it. (I know this from experience....twice 
)
)
Seano_boi
Member
lol sounds expensive . did you just easy out it or have it removed my the engine builders
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
Nah, it's a piece of cake to get out. A pair of pliers will do, don't need easy outs.
Its just that its usually one of the last things you go to do up (usually on sunday arvo as the sun is setting, everything else has gone to plan, you are feeling chuffed with yourself for fitting a new turbo all by yourself and really looking forward to cracking the top off a beer and relax (get the picture), and replacements are nigh impossible to get (especially at Supercheap or Repco etc). I had a few spare ones pillaged from front cuts but even when you look at them, you can see that the thread has started to stretch just from when they were put in at the factory.
The torque spec for that bolt is 14-19 Nm or 10-14 ft.lbs but I had one bolt snap before I even reached the specified torque.
Its just that its usually one of the last things you go to do up (usually on sunday arvo as the sun is setting, everything else has gone to plan, you are feeling chuffed with yourself for fitting a new turbo all by yourself and really looking forward to cracking the top off a beer and relax (get the picture), and replacements are nigh impossible to get (especially at Supercheap or Repco etc). I had a few spare ones pillaged from front cuts but even when you look at them, you can see that the thread has started to stretch just from when they were put in at the factory.
The torque spec for that bolt is 14-19 Nm or 10-14 ft.lbs but I had one bolt snap before I even reached the specified torque.
Seano_boi
Member
oh , yeah , i know it well ! , and i bet you could just taste that cold one already ! . i built truck trailers for my time and things always turn pair shape just before knock off ! .
i will go with the factory one tho because i think its quite plausable that the things fail because of oil starvation ! . i just think if i was spinning at the speed it spins at id call it quits for sure , lol ! .
as a general rule ( unless it is inferrior workmanship and materials or metalic structure ) that stuff from china is not always shit , and anyway a big end will spit the dummy and spin if you starve it of oil no matter what quality it is , so yeah i hope thats all it is ! .
i will go with the factory one tho because i think its quite plausable that the things fail because of oil starvation ! . i just think if i was spinning at the speed it spins at id call it quits for sure , lol ! .
as a general rule ( unless it is inferrior workmanship and materials or metalic structure ) that stuff from china is not always shit , and anyway a big end will spit the dummy and spin if you starve it of oil no matter what quality it is , so yeah i hope thats all it is ! .
Seano_boi
Member
oh , yeah , i know it well ! , and i bet you could just taste that cold one already ! . i built truck trailers for my time and things always turn pair shape just before knock off ! .
i will go with the factory one tho because i think its quite plausable that the things fail because of oil starvation ! . i just think if i was spinning at the speed it spins at id call it quits for sure , lol ! .
as a general rule ( unless it is inferrior workmanship and materials or metalic structure ) that stuff from china is not always shit , and anyway a big end will spit the dummy and spin if you starve it of oil no matter what quality it is , so yeah i hope thats all it is ! .
i will go with the factory one tho because i think its quite plausable that the things fail because of oil starvation ! . i just think if i was spinning at the speed it spins at id call it quits for sure , lol ! .
as a general rule ( unless it is inferrior workmanship and materials or metalic structure ) that stuff from china is not always shit , and anyway a big end will spit the dummy and spin if you starve it of oil no matter what quality it is , so yeah i hope thats all it is ! .
Theres been incidents of the chinese copy turbo's compressor wheels shattering, and even coming off. Not to good when the metal goes into the motor....
As for taking a chance, its a big one to take, not just the turbo that can end up going, but that entire transplant you've done.
Do it right, just like i am, grab a turbo from GTPumps
As for taking a chance, its a big one to take, not just the turbo that can end up going, but that entire transplant you've done.
Do it right, just like i am, grab a turbo from GTPumps
Seano_boi
Member
i agree , its a lot to wager , and a lot to loose if i cant get it goin . id have a turbo i paid over a grand for i cant use , but mate i see your point and it is a valid one .
Anyrate ill let u guys know how it turns out !
Anyrate ill let u guys know how it turns out !
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
Seano_boi said:
You're kidding right? :shock:
Seano_boi
Member
oh , no ! , lol .
i was saying if i went off and got a brand new genuine one before i ironed out all the bugs in the engine conversion , if it didnt work i would have an expensive turbo there i could not use .
i paid well , well under a grand for my copy TD05 .
* chuckles to himself * No i wouldnt pay that much when i could get a decent 2nd hand one for like half that , lol .
i was saying if i went off and got a brand new genuine one before i ironed out all the bugs in the engine conversion , if it didnt work i would have an expensive turbo there i could not use .
i paid well , well under a grand for my copy TD05 .
* chuckles to himself * No i wouldnt pay that much when i could get a decent 2nd hand one for like half that , lol .
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
ah good. Glad I misunderstood you.
Seano_boi
Member
hey , while i got this forum thing open , what do u guys think of chryotemping engine parts and things .
i have a friend that works at the brisbane heat treat branch and im thinkin of getting things done for my build cos i have done a small tig job for him a while back , and he said he would do it as an experement so long as i told everyone about it , lol . and they will do some dyno runs and are allowed to use the data for what ever they want . ( i guess advertising and shit ? )
according to the maths and sciences involved it can allow me a further 25% ( max predicted is 40% ) of lateral and longertudal strain and still maintain full reliability .
in other words it will allow me to run 16 - 18 pound boost instead of the standard rods snapping . the mitsubishi guy rated the standard rods a max reliable of 1 bar and i think that like 15 pound . i know people dont run them at more than 15 pound daily driver
just wondered if you guys were interested in knowin how it goes or if anyone has it done or just what u guys think in general .
i have a friend that works at the brisbane heat treat branch and im thinkin of getting things done for my build cos i have done a small tig job for him a while back , and he said he would do it as an experement so long as i told everyone about it , lol . and they will do some dyno runs and are allowed to use the data for what ever they want . ( i guess advertising and shit ? )
according to the maths and sciences involved it can allow me a further 25% ( max predicted is 40% ) of lateral and longertudal strain and still maintain full reliability .
in other words it will allow me to run 16 - 18 pound boost instead of the standard rods snapping . the mitsubishi guy rated the standard rods a max reliable of 1 bar and i think that like 15 pound . i know people dont run them at more than 15 pound daily driver
just wondered if you guys were interested in knowin how it goes or if anyone has it done or just what u guys think in general .
CLuTZ
Diamonds are forever....
If you are going through the process of replacing rods- i'd still get different ones than the factory rods!
Hell, i'd throw the 4G93 in the bin and get a 4G63T and go from there
Hell, i'd throw the 4G93 in the bin and get a 4G63T and go from there
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
In general - boost bends rods, rpm breaks rods. Cryoing the rods will not change the compressive or tensile strength of the rods sufficiently (if at all) to make it worthwhile for that extra 1 or 2 psi of boost.
Seano_boi
Member
yeah , for my 93t that i have in the corner of the shed i am building for drifting ( rear wheel drive conversion , something different , should be fun ) i will be running forged pistons / rods and reground billet cams . but for my daily driver coupe i was just goin to run the chroyoed rods and see how it goes . its not goin to cost me anythign
i plan to run a daily tune of what ever the wastegate is , it says its 0.8 bar on the info sheet that came with the new turbo but i dont know what that is in PSI i think about 12. i am looking to run 14 pound and rip it to 16 pound for the quick hit . i will still run the 2 stage boost controler when the engine goes back in but it clicks when doin the boost and is kinda annoying so i may rubber mount it .
i have had meek put in the stutter box at 6000 rpm so if it sits on the limiter for what ever reason it wont cause any trouble . i am led to believe the factory limiter is 6500 so i should be safe and not snap rods because i wont go for huge rpm . the way i understand chryotemping is it changes austensite into martensite ( or vice verser ) which is like making the structure of the part stronger ( like the difference between pine wood and hardwood ) so yeah ill give it a try and see how i go . a mates gsr can run 16 pound on the dyno without problems and his rods are standard he has not even done rings or bearings yet ? , so yeah , i am not entirely sure what the score is .
how is it that boost bend rods and rpm breaks them ? , is it the increased cumbustion pressure verses the extra stretch or the higher rpm ? , or more complex than that
i plan to run a daily tune of what ever the wastegate is , it says its 0.8 bar on the info sheet that came with the new turbo but i dont know what that is in PSI i think about 12. i am looking to run 14 pound and rip it to 16 pound for the quick hit . i will still run the 2 stage boost controler when the engine goes back in but it clicks when doin the boost and is kinda annoying so i may rubber mount it .
i have had meek put in the stutter box at 6000 rpm so if it sits on the limiter for what ever reason it wont cause any trouble . i am led to believe the factory limiter is 6500 so i should be safe and not snap rods because i wont go for huge rpm . the way i understand chryotemping is it changes austensite into martensite ( or vice verser ) which is like making the structure of the part stronger ( like the difference between pine wood and hardwood ) so yeah ill give it a try and see how i go . a mates gsr can run 16 pound on the dyno without problems and his rods are standard he has not even done rings or bearings yet ? , so yeah , i am not entirely sure what the score is .
how is it that boost bend rods and rpm breaks them ? , is it the increased cumbustion pressure verses the extra stretch or the higher rpm ? , or more complex than that
rob323
Don't drive it, RALLY it!
Seano_boi said:
Its far more complex than I know, but here is my take in it.
Boost = increased combustion pressure. If the rod can't handle it, it will buckle. If the rod buckles so much that it exceeds the yield point of the metal, then it will break it and the rod will then try to punch holes in anything nearby such as your block, balance shafts, oil pump and work it's way down to your sump and sometimes take out your crankshaft as well just for fun.
High rpm means high piston speeds. Imagine the following: the piston is on it's upward stroke, during this time, the piston and rod are in compression. The piston then reaches the top of its stroke and starts its downward stroke. The rod is now in tension as it tries to pull the piston downwards. The higher the rpm, the faster it all happens and the more load is put on both the piston and the rod. If the rpm gets too high, it will exceed the tensile stress of either the piston itself (in which case the rod will usually pull the gudgeon pin out of the piston) or the rod will snap and proceed to do the same "clearancing" as mentioned above).
Seano_boi
Member
* Laughs *
Clearancing , ha :lol: , i like it thats funny .
yeah thats what i thought , and yeah thanks for explaining it in a way i could better grasp it .
i am only looking to run around everyday on the max point that the factory rods are recomended ( As In - they say 15 psi max , i plan to run 15 psi ) , and its free for me on the " Mates Rates Barter System " so i threw the piston / rods in the chryo run .
but now i understand why i need the forgies in my drift car .
i know every man and his dog throws a vr4 and awd conversion into there coupe and get really respecable power / ET's out of it but i want to be different ! , lol .
And Tell Me Anyone Who Has Seen A CC Coupe RWD Drifting !?! :twisted:
If i have Meek do the chip in my ecu for my mods and they stick the limiter 500 rpm lower ( Say 6100 instead of 6500 or What Ever ) i should be able to sit on the limiter for how ever long if i want to without any problems to the engine hey , cos its under its RPM limit ? , is this true ? . ( dont plan to sit on the limiter tho , just would like to know )
Thanks for your tips guys , appreciated ! .
Clearancing , ha :lol: , i like it thats funny .
yeah thats what i thought , and yeah thanks for explaining it in a way i could better grasp it .
i am only looking to run around everyday on the max point that the factory rods are recomended ( As In - they say 15 psi max , i plan to run 15 psi ) , and its free for me on the " Mates Rates Barter System " so i threw the piston / rods in the chryo run .
but now i understand why i need the forgies in my drift car .
i know every man and his dog throws a vr4 and awd conversion into there coupe and get really respecable power / ET's out of it but i want to be different ! , lol .
And Tell Me Anyone Who Has Seen A CC Coupe RWD Drifting !?! :twisted:
If i have Meek do the chip in my ecu for my mods and they stick the limiter 500 rpm lower ( Say 6100 instead of 6500 or What Ever ) i should be able to sit on the limiter for how ever long if i want to without any problems to the engine hey , cos its under its RPM limit ? , is this true ? . ( dont plan to sit on the limiter tho , just would like to know )
Thanks for your tips guys , appreciated ! .
