timming belt

4GTuner

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When you say "hard to start", what exactly does it do?
Does it crank over but not actually fire up?
Does it fire up but run rough?
Does it fire up but not idle and stall?
Etc...
Did you triple check that the cam timing was all correct before you cranked it over? Did you pretension the exhaust cam on the belt by 2 teeth so it ended up in the right spot?
 
yeah i made sure of the cam timming and it runs good once it starts but when its cranking it sounds like its got no fuel but i can hear the pump and when it fires runs good dosnt stall
 
Pressure test the intake, reset your BISS and check the ISC with a multimeter (refer to VFAQ).
What plugs are you running and what gap are they set too?
When it does finally fire up and run, does the exhaust smell of unburnt fuel?
 
on the boost guage it reads 20in.hg and dosnt move much so im pretty confident there is no vac leaks, once the weather warms up however it's easy to start, the plugs are standard ngk 6's and it dosnt seem to smell like fuel, i did however replace the pump with a walbro.. sorry for the noob question but whats BISS and ISC?
 
kb24 said:
on the boost guage it reads 20in.hg and dosnt move much so im pretty confident there is no vac leaks
That is just the vacuum at the intake manifold, it won't tell you if you have any air getting in without going through the air flow meter (ie. leaks).
i did however replace the pump with a walbro..
Has this cranking problem only occurred since you changed the pump? If so, then that would be a good place to start looking.
 
talking to a few people i think i may have figured out the problem with the hard to start when cold, as i put the battery in the boot there is a voltage drop between the fuel pump and power source, apparently this is a common problem on these:( and rob 323 looks like he was right with the biss screw
thanks heaps for your help guys:thumbsup:
 
kb24 said:
talking to a few people i think i may have figured out the problem with the hard to start when cold, as i put the battery in the boot there is a voltage drop between the fuel pump and power source, apparently this is a common problem on these:( and rob 323 looks like he was right with the biss screw
thanks heaps for your help guys:thumbsup:

Good to see it sorted 1 reason why I bought a battery relocate to the boot and never fitted it.

So was it a case of batt was gutless and or biss related? or both?
 
Liberoz said:
Good to see it sorted 1 reason why I bought a battery relocate to the boot and never fitted it.

So was it a case of batt was gutless and or biss related? or both?
im still having trouble with the biss and the battery must be a piece of crap, my problem is that ive got 3" cooler pipe comming straight off the tb and i cant seem to get the adjustment quite right. im thinking it might have a leak in there somewhere:fuuuuu:
 
By earthing out the plug on the firewall, you basically centre the Idle Speed Controller. You then adjust the Biss to get the idle right. this allows the ISC to regulate the idle as best as possible. But if your ISC is stuffed, then no adjustment of the Biss is going to help.

If your ISC checks out fine, and you have pressure tested the intake to check for leaks, and have adjusted the Biss and you still have idle problems, then the next step is to make up an EGR block off plate (more homework for you to do).
 

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