VR4 16psi and 139kw@wheels??!!

[ozyvr4]

Post up a log of the dyno run if you have it.

I would also post it up on the ecmlink forum. The members on the ecmlink forum can be very helpfull. They have a massive ecmlink user base that are very switch on in the tuning department. I have seen problems being solved from posting a log that site.

 

[nonickname]

Thanks for your input guys. I have performed all checks i can think of. The timing is perfect, no boost leaks, holds 16psi perfect with no spike or drop. Everything is in order. I agree with the last post. Its got to be the ecmlink. Gona have another go and add more timing. We think what the laptop is telling us might be bit far from the truth in regards to whats actually going on in the engine bay. Will double check this and hopefully get some results.

 

[bazeng]

have you pulled apart the piping to see if there is a restriction at all?
Have you checked for a pressure drop across the cooler?

 

[rob323]

Was the base timing set correctly (ie. was the plug on the firewall earthed out when the base timing was set)?

 

[rob323]

no boost leaks, holds 16psi perfect with no spike or drop.

Did you actually pressurise the intake or are you just quoting boost levels?

 

[milkandoj]

Mate i just found your thread on ecmlink and you forgot to put a log up!
And write a list of all your relevant engine mods in your signature, so people can refer to it, and know what your running.

It will be interesting to follow the thread if you post a log. Put up an idle log and a full throttle pull as well.


It could be the scaling is out and its hitting higher load cells where the timing is piss weak. Dialing in the afm, and getting the injectors set up is the most important part. Things like a pod filter adapter before the afm will skew the readings so if you are running the baseline setting for your specific afm they can give you, it will be a bit off. My car was like this with the adapter on, if i took it off it would hit the afr targets spot on, wiht it on it was all wrong. So something like this you need to rescale you air volume correction.
Boost leaks will throw it all off to. This will be one of the first things you will be told to do.

Put a log up! Say what the afr is on boost throughout the rev range if the wideband isn't logged.
To help make sure what your capturing in your logs is relevant, this is the basics you want to select to capture before you record the log. This is what i have displayed at minimum when viewing logs, i capture more though.

MAF
MAFRaw,
LTFT Lo,
LTFT Mid
LTFT Hi
STFT
AirflowPerRev
Airflow
CoolTemp
KnockRet
RPM
ThrotPos
Timing
BoostEst
IntTemp
LoadFactor
Speed
ClosedLoop
Wideband, if you have it logged.

 

[ozyvr4]

Good point . I just changed the timing map in mine for the new turbo & in the higher load points there was no timing at all. I was using the evo 8 ralliart table 7 in the 16 and above timing table in dropped to zero.

I would upload the 2 g timing map or a modifed 1g map. You can find them on the dsmlink site in the download section.

Very easy to load.

http://www.ecmtuning.com/downloads.php?osCsid=j6bqoq0mr8bc2diqj51vfmmdb5

 

[Rockabilly]

Found this link for map sensor with dsmlink. Don't know if it is of any help.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/304883-how-wire-map-sensor-use-dsmlink.html
Cheers !

 

[nonickname]

Hi guys,

Sorry not been on the forum for a while. Thanks for everyones input.

The car has now been pressure tested and had a very minute leaks that was repaired. No leaks now.
Timing is fine
Plugs were stuffed and replaced (Slight improvement)
Leads were magnicore and replaced for oems as the magnicore were wrong (improved slightly)
Exhaust dropped and checked-no blockage
Turbo pulled off and inspected- Like new

These are the issues we are still having.

The rpm on the log looked a bit like a staircase. Scroling across the log the rpm would go (on a pull on the dyno starting at 2250rpm) From say 3450rpm then drop 200rpm to 3248rpm then say back to 3600rpm and so on. This is where we thought some electrical issue may be present. This is where the leads were found to be wire core leads and replaced. This improved the log a bit but timing still fluctuated 10deg to and fro on a dyno pull. This was checked with a timing light on the crank markers.

THINGS TO NOTE

1/ The motor gets a bit of knock through the rev range, so it wont take anymore timing and it seems to take the amount of advance that the tuner normally runs on these engines. So it prob doesn't need any more ignition timing.
2/ The timing jumps up and down 10deg as the revs go up (like a staircase). This has got to be where the problem is.....what causing it though?

The log was sent to Thomas Dorris who is the man at ecmlink. We asked if it was at all possible the ecmlink chip or ecu could be responsible. He reckoned it has to be something other than the ecu or the chip as the car would either not start or run like a bag of shite at all rpm. So can prob eliminate those two. The only thing he mentioned was the timing staircase and a choppy airflow signal which was minor. This will not give us the 40-50kw when airflow is fine tuned......there is a much bigger gremlin present here and hes dam good at hiding!!

Any ideas guys? Ive got a few.......new car, evo front cut? lol

 

[nonickname]

Just a quick note. If you have seen a similar problem before and know for example it is the knock sensor.....then even though its been mentioned that it was checked already, By all means say you think its the problem still! No wrong answers here

Cheers,
Carl

 

[JayRome]

um... have you ever changed your CAS??

 

[nonickname]

um... have you ever changed your CAS??

It was removed n checked. All appeared ok. But its gona be replaced just to make sure. Also from a bit of reading, Im gona check whether it has late model knock sensor installed because they are ment to be really sensative compared to the original vr4 one. in which case the car would think its knocking heaps n pull back the timing......Oh yeah whats the number of the person who has my raingurads in VIC? I cleared my inbox and wiped his number by mistake lol

Thanks!

 

[JayRome]

It was removed n checked. All appeared ok. But its gona be replaced just to make sure. Also from a bit of reading, Im gona check whether it has late model knock sensor installed because they are ment to be really sensative compared to the original vr4 one. in which case the car would think its knocking heaps n pull back the timing......Oh yeah whats the number of the person who has my raingurads in VIC? I cleared my inbox and wiped his number by mistake lol

Thanks!

lol i have your rain guards bro... just PM me i'll slide you my info...

 

[CLuTZ]

Where abouts are you located mate?

On the wiring harness for your CAS- do you have a triangle plug, square plug or no plug?

Also, what AFM are you using?

 

[nonickname]

Where abouts are you located mate?

On the wiring harness for your CAS- do you have a triangle plug, square plug or no plug?

Also, what AFM are you using?

Im in vic. I will prob pick my car up this week. Will have a look then. The car is factory aus spec but does have a replcement rebuild motor, has aus spec inlet manifold but maybe jap spec motor? The tuner did notice today that the wire to the cas was cut and rejoined after the plug. Hes gona replace it with new insulated wire n see if the signal improves. I will get the dyno sheets and ecm log when I pick up the car. Also the car has had the knock sensor turned off and the knock ears used. Def has real knock going on. AFM is 055 with bomz alloy intake.

 

[CLuTZ]

Im in vic.

Also the car has had the knock sensor turned off and the knock ears used.

Where abouts in VIC mate? Someone close to you might be able to lend you an AFM and CAS for you to try out.

How come the knock sensor has been diabled? I reckon that the ecmlink utilising the factory knock sensor is one of the best features...

 

[trq-str]

Does it knock at wastegate pressure as well or only up near 16PSI? this could help determine the severity of the knock.

Also have you tried some octane boost to test whether it disappears or not? Wynn's pro strength is good stuff.

 

[nonickname]

Where abouts in VIC mate? Someone close to you might be able to lend you an AFM and CAS for you to try out.

How come the knock sensor has been diabled? I reckon that the ecmlink utilising the factory knock sensor is one of the best features...

Im in Seaford. I think I will have the car back this week in its dulled down safe mode. I was thinking of taking it to mitsi n see if any fault codes are present? Any thoughts on that? The tuner only turned the knock sensor off to use the knock ears n see if it is real or phantom and how far it could be worked on while off compared to when its on. Something is def gone haywire since the ecmlink was installed thats for sure. The car use to run a bit rough n run rich below 4000rpm but then use to hammer up past redline now its the complete opposite. Nice n smooth idle and when cruising but when the foot goes down it just feels like someones pulling the handbrake tighter n tighter. Shithouse. The odd thing is if we remove the ecmlink and reinstall the meek chip that was in there previously, The car does not behave how it did on the meek chip before. It still feels sluggish and has knock? Im thinking maybe a dodgy wiring loom that might have got bumped or something when ebc was installed at the same time?

 

[nonickname]

Does it knock at wastegate pressure as well or only up near 16PSI? this could help determine the severity of the knock.

Also have you tried some octane boost to test whether it disappears or not? Wynn's pro strength is good stuff.

Im not sure about that. I will ask when I pick the car up. Actually I think when ebc was disabled the car ran at 14psi off the wastegate. When I picked the car up from tuners last time in its dull tune it was on 14psi then. So maybe yeah it isn't knocking while at wastegate pressure?

 

[CLuTZ]

What other mods did you do when you installed the ecmlink? Work your way back and tick off the easy ones step by step.

Forget about going to mitsubishi- if it's throwing codes then the ecmlink should be telling you what they are.

If you re-install the chipped ECU and it's not running like it used to, then clearly it's not an ECU fault.

Were you using the same AFM/injectors as before with the chipped ECU?