VR4 16psi and 139kw@wheels??!!

4GTuner

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CLuTZ said:
What other mods did you do when you installed the ecmlink? Work your way back and tick off the easy ones step by step.

Forget about going to mitsubishi- if it's throwing codes then the ecmlink should be telling you what they are.

If you re-install the chipped ECU and it's not running like it used to, then clearly it's not an ECU fault.

Were you using the same AFM/injectors as before with the chipped ECU?
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All we did was install a profec b boost controller and the ecm chip. Straight away the car hardly idled and died all the time. Even with settings worked out to what they should be. (with meek chip it would idle @1500rpm) So throttle body was checked and some wax thing was stuffed? It was bypassed and idle was fine after that. Hope that makes sense. Also the ecmlink was saying the actuall timing was way off. Now. The tuner said it is set correct now, But if it WAS way off. Wouldnt that mean it would have been with the meek chip aswel? If so why no knock and good power back then? Yeah I think ecu is fine really. Also yes. Same Afm and injectors.
 
nonickname said:
No wouldn't have a clue. Im gona track down the guy who built it n hopefully find out.
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Hey Baz. I know its real hard to see in the pics on page one. But I really think the exhaust cam is a tooth clockwise. The two meeting points do meet up in the centre but at no point do the dowel pins both go square to the top. I showed this to a few people and they could all see what I was meaning. I may be wrong but it really does look tweaked to the right one tooth...Or maybe its the intake one tooth to the left. Would have to look where the marks line up underneath to dtermine which one is off....but I swear one is lol
 
IMO the timing looks fine as having one tooth out (on either gear) would prevent the marks on the circumference of the gears from lining up.
 
Hmmm could be onto something. The belt seems to flap about a bit too much when reved up and down. Tuner suspects whoever rebuilt the motor did not change the tensioner or may have stuffed it by compressing it too quickly. Could be the reason for the timing fluctuating up to 10degrees. Fingers crossed!
 
When you saying timing fluctuation, is that by using a timing light on the harmonic balancer or by monitoring the ecu?
If it's by using a timing light, then check that the harmonic balancer isn't separating and that it is dowelled onto the crank correctly.
 
rob323 said:
When you saying timing fluctuation, is that by using a timing light on the harmonic balancer or by monitoring the ecu?
If it's by using a timing light, then check that the harmonic balancer isn't separating and that it is dowelled onto the crank correctly.
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Its actually on both. He checked it with the timing light to confirm what the ecmlink was saying and it was definitely doing the same thing. Hes going to pull the front off and make sure everything is as It should be. If anything looks sus it will be replaced or adjusted.
 
That makes sense, if there is slack in the belt, true timing at the crank would differ to what the ecu sees. I guess that is why mitsu upgraded to using 2 separate sensors on the later model stuff.

I know kiggly racing have a product to convert from a cas (cam and crank) to a cas(cam position only) and crank.

fingers crossed for ya!
 
OK I can tell you this so far. The belt was tight at idle but when revved up you could see it flapping a bit under load. Belt is now off. It was put on backwards and also the tensioner was checked against another one and was definitely lacking pressure. So a new belt and tensioner will be fitted hopefully tomorrow and I will post up results.

On a worrying note. The crank was apparantely overly stiff and hard to spin by hand? When clutch peddle was pushed down it freed up. Crank walk on a freshly rebuilt vr4 block? Say it aint so :blink:
 
It ain’t so, crankwalk is when the crank suffers excessive thrust play, from what you have described you have not even tested for crankwalk ;).

Having trouble spinning the crank by hand is normal, you have pistons trying to create compression and a heavy flywheel and pp on the other side.
With the clutch out you have extra load from the clutch disk and (Assuming you are not in gear) the gearbox input shaft, once released it should be easier to turn.
 
Have you put a few logs up on ecmlink of these dyno runs yet? Logs can tell people a lot that you may not describe.
 
milkandoj said:
Have you put a few logs up on ecmlink of these dyno runs yet? Logs can tell people a lot that you may not describe.
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I sent them to Thomas Dorris of ecmlink. He suggested a few things but said there is definitely something else going on. Its not the chip or ecu. Waiting to hear back about results after belt and tensioner have been replaced. Il post the logs up once I get the car back this time, also the dyno graph
 
trq-str said:
It ain’t so, crankwalk is when the crank suffers excessive thrust play, from what you have described you have not even tested for crankwalk ;).

Having trouble spinning the crank by hand is normal, you have pistons trying to create compression and a heavy flywheel and pp on the other side.
With the clutch out you have extra load from the clutch disk and (Assuming you are not in gear) the gearbox input shaft, once released it should be easier to turn.
Click to expand...
Im aware that crank are hard to turn by hand! I was meaning with a wrench :lol: Its just what the tuner told me over the phone. He would have a fair idea of whats a normal feel for a crank while checking timing. I sure hope hes wrong though! :unsure:
Cant wait to hear the results, Will be a nice suprise if its all sorted in time for the holz B)
 
iluszn said:
Any update on this?
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Sadly the timing belt and tensioner have not solved the problem. I got hold of the guy who built the motor and he said it was a full standard vr4 rebuild even down to keeping the balance shafts. He also mentioned the knock sensor wasnt replaced at the time as it worked fine. He did mention the head was shaved as you would with any rebuild, But saying that, right at the start when my tuner first noticed this knock issue. He did wonder if the head was shaved too much n possibly raised the compression too high now? Anyways the tuner reopens on monday. I will give him the number of the guy who built the motor and also get him too have a chat with the boys at meek as that is where I was told the car was chipped and tuned. Hopefully by backtracking we might get somewhere.
 

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