What brakes are you running?

[D3bb4]

Hello all,

Am undecided as to whether or not I should bolt on 3kgt brakes to my galant. Should have everything ready to bolt up, but then there's the whole wheel issue and potential need for spacers.

Wondering what everybody is running, and if it's worth the hassle/$$$ involved, as I'll likely need new rims if I do the upgrade. If the twin pots are enough for everybody, I might just check that that's what I've got, or change to them.

Haven't driven the car much, but should be pretty quick, so I want the stopping power to match.

Thanks

 

[JayRome]

i'm running: twin pots, slotted rotors, EBC greens/blacks...... stops pretty well, also depends on your tyres....

 

[Entaran]

Twinpot Aspec brakes with the Aspec twin piston master cyl. Slotted rotors front and rear, Ferodo up front, EBC blackstuff down back. Some crazy expensive brake fluid with a german name i can't remember.

Haven't managed to get them to fade yet and they consistently throw me into the steering wheel (or try to). ABS locks up quite regularly under HARD braking.

Don't feel the need for 4 pots yet. See how it goes at winton in January though, 5-10 laps should fairly hammer them.

 

[rob323]

The conversion and RTA hassles aren't worth the expense.
I ran Aus spec twin spots on RDA slotted rotors with Ferodo DS2500 pads up front. Stock rear brakes and discs with Lucas pads in the rear, and the Aus spec 1" master cylinder. Just ran cheap Valvoline fluid but flushed it before every event.
With semislicks, and around QR raceway, hard underbrakes, it would throw me through the windscreen but I still had so much grip that the abs never activated.

 

[Entaran]

^^ This man has more experience than most of the rest of us.

 

[D3bb4]

Dammit... i posted and it didnt work!

Old owner "disabled" the ABS... so i need to fix that before I get the car blue slipped/registered.

With all the other mods, I was considering having the car engineered, so RTA hassles wouldn't be an issue so long as I don't need spacers/clears engineer's approval.

Not even sure what the setup on there is at the moment. I'll figure it out when the car's out of the shop and uni semester finishes.

Have any brake fade from using the twin pots?

 

[rob323]

Dammit... i posted and it didnt work!

Old owner "disabled" the ABS... so i need to fix that before I get the car blue slipped/registered.

With all the other mods, I was considering having the car engineered, so RTA hassles wouldn't be an issue so long as I don't need spacers/clears engineer's approval.

Not even sure what the setup on there is at the moment. I'll figure it out when the car's out of the shop and uni semester finishes.

Have any brake fade from using the twin pots?

The reason I ditched the 3kGT front brake upgrade was the $1000 or so it was going to cost me to get the brake test done to check that the bias was correct. It was too much for my liking. The engineer would only certify the upgrade after that test had been performed.

Brake fade will depend largely on what pads and fluid you chose to run. To bed my DS2500's in on the fronts, it took 5 hard laps of QR to get them to green fade. It generated so much heat that it turned the centres of my Oz Racing wheels from white to yellow. I have never had pad fade since (boiled the fluid - yes, but not pad fade).

 

[D3bb4]

Ever warp the rotors if it got to be that hot? :S Is one of the advantages of the larger setup. Better heat dispersement.

Didn't know needed that testing. Might give someone a ring to check it next week. Seems to be alot of different prices when it comes to getting vehicles engineered - might be different in NSW.

 

[Entaran]

I'm in rob's boat. I've boiled the fluid in hillclimbs and stuff but rarely if ever experienced pad fade.

Getting your brakes so hot that the video clearly shows them glowing red and the brake dust burning as it comes out is ... special

 

[rob323]

Ever warp the rotors if it got to be that hot?

You only warp rotors by letting them cool down unevenly. If you keep moving until they cool down to normal temps then you don't have a problem.

Is one of the advantages of the larger setup. Better heat dispersement.

Yes, but you are talking about alot more heat than the avergae weekend racer will generate. there used to be a circuit only Super VR4 up here, just ran stock brakes with super agressive pads.

 

[Entaran]

TBH I think upgrading to 4 or 6pots is crazy unless you plan to put in a brake bias controller... which is automatically illegal for road going cars. If you don't put in a bias controller the car won't stop properly anyway and you'll actually have WORSE brakes than before. They'll just look bigger and be shinier.

 

[D3bb4]

Looks like I might just copy rob's setup then

Am all for avoiding headaches

 

[biger_Gti]

I have

my setup is: front 4pot from vr4 3000gt, rear? i dont know what to do width parking hand brake...

 

[DOUGMO]

wilwood/outlaw 4 piston fronts with porterfield pads in the front
on evo4 dba4000 rotors

rear slotted rotors with project mu hc+

pulls up hard

 

[EVO-00X]

Ive got piston envy ^^^^ :w00t:

 

[omad]

same as the other boys have said, really.

i upgraded to RDA slotted and EBC redstuff. Did bedding in process and got about 2-300 clicks before heading to powercruise. Brakes only faded once at the end of the first day. Was out for about an hour that session. Pads turned from red to yellow (hot) =P repeated bedding in process and haven't faded sice. Faultless for the rest of the weekend. Just took a warm up lap to get some heat in them and they were fine =)

ps - driving an A-spec, so twinpots and larger master cyl =)