wheel hub mount - important?

[bob_oz]

Hi Guys,

This is a Q about the realistic issues with the mag wheel to wheel hub flange mounting.

Background on issue:
I drive a pajero io - 5x114.3 stud pattern.
I'm upgrading my front calipers from piss-weak single pot calipers to twin pots using the evo 3 / rvr / fto single-to-twin conversion caliper direct swap approach commonly done overseas.
The primary problem is that my standard disks are 39mm hat height, 22mm thick and 285mm diameter, twin spots need 24mm and 276mm diameter, of which no stock hats are 39mm high.
There is also no room to move the brake frame inboard 5mm to clear a lancer/fto disk if fitted.
Loads of guys in Greece and Russia either:
* Lathe stock io disks down to 276mm diameter and just run the 22mm disk in place of the 24mm disk and change pads before they're worn out.
OR
* Fit a 5-6mm wheel spacer on the hub then run an FTO disk (45mm high, 276mm diameter 24mm thick).
personally i like the idea of just fitting the spacer under the disk to fix the offset issue and run off the shelf parts but that 5mm eats up the lip the wheel sits on the hub - but how important is it with mags?

The issue:
currently the stock mags on my io have a 6mm deep taper on the hub mounting hole such that when you fit them normally they only contact on about 3mm of the hub flange at best - fitting a 5mm spacer will remove this entirely.

I know with steel wheels using taper lock nuts you need this flange to carry the load of the wheel, but with mitsi mags using straight sided washered lug studs does the wheel still use this flange as a load bearing point - or do the studs and the contact friction between wheel and hub carry the load? is there anything really bad with not having contact under load?

just don't know

Thanks

 

[evo-gsr]

Doesnt sound safe to me...I wouldnt be relying on the studs alone to carry the weight/ load.

 

[bazeng]

I had my Mitsubishi wheels modified to remove the requirement for those nuts you refer to.

Using the tapered nuts on them..

My understanding is that the hub centre takes the load.. Not nuts and studs.. Most of it anyway..

 

[bob_oz]

yeah these were my thoughts too - just couldn't work out why the standard rims only contact 3mm.

I'll just need to source some 39mm height 24mm thick disks - do you know if the two piece disks can be cross-bolted between centers?

Thanks

 

[bazeng]

Can't help you there mate... No idea..

 

[khubner1]

lancer boys have been running mini cooper disks they are the thinner disks the issue is not with brakepad life it's with minimum thickness on the disk the disks themselves wont last physically as long if i remember correctly min thick on a mitsu disk is 21 or 22mm.

 

[evo-gsr]

Disk storage is a general category of storage mechanisms where data are recorded by various electronic, magnetic, optical, or mechanical changes to a surface layer of one or more rotating disks. A disk drive is a device implementing such a storage mechanism.

 

[evo-gsr]

A disc brake is a type of brake that uses calipers to squeeze pairs of pads against a disc in order to create friction that retards the rotation of a shaft, such as a vehicle axle, either to reduce its rotational speed or to hold it stationary.

 

[Cranked]

I'd say machine ur IO disks down if that's possible.

 

[bob_oz]

yeah - likely the go.

i'm going to look and see if i can machine 2.5mm off the brake caliper frame mount and 2.5mm off the knuckle mounts and if the 5mm offset inwards disks will fit on the hub and clear the knuckle - then i'll just mount everything inboard slightly

otherwise yeah machine stock disks

PS cooper are 4 x 100 so early lancer - i'm stuck with 5 x 114.3

 

[khubner1]

it's a expensive option but do they make a 2 peice disk int he hat height you need and a disc in the diameter you need? if so you can pair the hat and disc to get one to suit.

 

[CLuTZ]

Have you looked at any of the Legnum stuff? I used Legnum discs and callipers on an RVR