Block differences

[80ILR]

Hi all,

this is probably a question people with the experience eg clutz! Was going to rebuild my 4g93 as the owner before me "rebuilt" it and has after 20k spun bearings.

Have changed my mind now and going to go for the 63. Just wanting to know the differences between and evo 1-3 and vr4 blocks, is there any major differences? APC in bris says that the vr4 is a stronger bottom end but after doing research looks like the evo 1-3 is easier fitment in a GSR. I don't want to cut any corners with the project but as im doing it all myself would prefer an easier swap as the motor is not the only part of the project.

thanks in advance
Steve

 

[80ILR]

p.s sorry if this is in another thread somewhere

 

[Liberoz]

different engine mount on passanger side, easy fix buy evo brackets and run the 6bolt vr4 block it is stronger in the bottom end

 

[80ILR]

so who would go with which motor and why?

 

[VR-4Squid]

vr4's have 7.8:1 compression compared with evo's 8.5:1

the strength difference in the bottom end is the vr4 rods are much bigger.

are you planning to just drop in a 2nd hand engine, or are you going to freshen it up first?
It's highly likely a vr4 engine will have done more km's.

I'd recommend throwing in new rings, bearings and bolts whichever way you go.

My 200+km vr4 engine with a big 16G starts coming on boost at 2500rpm, full boost (17psi) at 3250-ish - not sure how much difference the evo's higher comp makes. . .

 

[80ILR]

vr4's have 7.8:1 compression compared with evo's 8.5:1

the strength difference in the bottom end is the vr4 rods are much bigger.

are you planning to just drop in a 2nd hand engine, or are you going to freshen it up first?
It's highly likely a vr4 engine will have done more km's.

I'd recommend throwing in new rings, bearings and bolts whichever way you go.

My 200+km vr4 engine with a big 16G starts coming on boost at 2500rpm, full boost (17psi) at 3250-ish - not sure how much difference the evo's higher comp makes. . .

Wasn't planning on doing much other than the mentioed bearings and rings, also head gasket and bolts, and just a freshen up of the head in general, seals etc. Possibly cams depending on how the budget is going (interest rates pending!)

Another point i guess I should add is that I will only be running a big 16g or something slightly bigger.

Steve

 

[runuts]

If you are buying a complete engine and freshening it up. You would be much better off with an evo motor. For starters they have the td05/16g and bigger injectors. The higher compression is better too. If you arent planning on going past about 240kw@wheels, leave the stock rods in place. If you are, eagles are cheap anyways.

 

[80ILR]

If you are buying a complete engine and freshening it up. You would be much better off with an evo motor. For starters they have the td05/16g and bigger injectors. The higher compression is better too. If you arent planning on going past about 240kw@wheels, leave the stock rods in place. If you are, eagles are cheap anyways.

Thanks for all the replies guys. Aiming for around 220-240kw. Will the 16g support that or will it need to be highflowed?

 

[runuts]

The 16G can support that, but its right at its limits. You would need all the supporting mods to really do it. Would be alot easier with a 20G comp wheel.

 

[steve]

Wasn't planning on doing much other than the mentioed bearings and rings, also head gasket and bolts, and just a freshen up of the head in general, seals etc. Possibly cams depending on how the budget is going (interest rates pending!

If you're going to pull the motor down anyway, you should seriously consider throwing a set of rods and pistons in it - they're so cheap these days. If you shop around (especially look at the states), you'll be able to get eagle rods and wiseco pistons for under a grand, no problems at all.

 

[80ILR]

Wasn't planning on doing much other than the mentioed bearings and rings, also head gasket and bolts, and just a freshen up of the head in general, seals etc. Possibly cams depending on how the budget is going (interest rates pending!

If you're going to pull the motor down anyway, you should seriously consider throwing a set of rods and pistons in it - they're so cheap these days. If you shop around (especially look at the states), you'll be able to get eagle rods and wiseco pistons for under a grand, no problems at all.

Shit that cheap?! I have been looking at all aussie sites and they are way too exy after spending between 2-3 for the motor. Something to think about!

 

[runuts]

Can easily get Eagle Rods/Wiseco's for under $950 delivered

 

[80ILR]

thanks all. million dollar question, where do I get hold of a decent evo 63? I saw cvap has one, is that the average sort of price?

 

[EVOISM]

go cvap, give andrew a call and say ur a member of t4g, he'll take care of u he did for me and heaps of others on here.

Ryan

 

[lozza]

If you are going to replace rods/pistons you may as well find a shagged complete block like i did for next to nothing. the money you save will be used for all the things you didn't think of replacing such as out of spec worn oil pump, timing components, corroded housings, gaskets, hoses, machining costs and tools etc etc.

Otherwise, pay the 1.5-2k for a long motor and just re-ring it and do bearings and gaskets. you don't need forgies for your goals.

I have found on my build that when you start buying the "good fruit" it just never ends and your budget build escalates so be warned!! On top of the low price of quality components are machining costs which add up.

You pricks over east are blessed with having so many establishments to buy parts. we have bugger all here in the west compared. I had to buy my stroker crank from brisbane because the only hyundai wrecker here told me i had to buy the complete motor!! stooge :x

Good luck with the re-build

Lorry

 

[80ILR]

If you are going to replace rods/pistons you may as well find a shagged complete block like i did for next to nothing. the money you save will be used for all the things you didn't think of replacing such as out of spec worn oil pump, timing components, corroded housings, gaskets, hoses, machining costs and tools etc etc.

Otherwise, pay the 1.5-2k for a long motor and just re-ring it and do bearings and gaskets. you don't need forgies for your goals.

I have found on my build that when you start buying the "good fruit" it just never ends and your budget build escalates so be warned!! On top of the low price of quality components are machining costs which add up.

You pricks over east are blessed with having so many establishments to buy parts. we have bugger all here in the west compared. I had to buy my stroker crank from brisbane because the only hyundai wrecker here told me i had to buy the complete motor!! stooge :x

Good luck with the re-build

Lorry

Wasn't planning on initially doing rods and pistons, will probably just drive it as is (after freshen up) until it dies and then rebuild. I know how much it can all add up, recently sold an R33 that ended up owning me WAY too much money. Will be doing all the work on the GSR myself.

 

[lozza]

yeh, i reckon. not cheap doin mods. ive been stung too many times. i have resorted to doing all the spanner work myself too. something satisfying about tackling (and hopefully succeeding!) with these builds. good luck and shoot us a pm if you need anything.

cheers

lorry

 

[80ILR]

The only downside to doing it all yourself is the subsequent cuts and bruises! I was doing a mechanics apprenticeship and I think was averaging in the first 6 months about 7 new cuts a week! Not to mention all the burns from working on hot cars!

Oh yeah so again who would go for which motor?

 

[SIVART]

if your running it stock bottom end with a refresh I would go a vr4 6 bolt

its got stronger rods etc but maybe look at getting a evo head + inlet manifold for easyer tunning and more responce