Clutch Issues (Definition of Crank Walk) (ALL FIXED AND BACK)

4GTuner

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pry bar behind the main pully and the whole crank moves like 5mm or so side to side. (ALOT)

oh well looks like a forged bottom end and twin plate is whats on order
 
the noise when you push the clutch is probably the flywheel hitting the block from the movement on the crank.

did the engine builder say anything? hasnt it been happening from day one?

I feel for you mate...no good
 
nah wasnt happeneing from the start it sorta just started to happen.

oh well shit happens, just my luck with cars. Harsh lesson about what clutches arent good for the motors.

builder is going to help me out a bit with it which is good, most would of told me tough shit.

might snapp up the eagle crank thats for sale and i gotta work out what i want to do with the clutch.
 
Na wouldnt really be a clogged oil squirter fault George as when they work they actually rob oil from the galleries and squirt oil up under the piston skirts. I believe most turbo 4G63T RVR engines didnt even come out with oil squirters (only certain models did). Its the design of the 7 bolt block and having a heavy duty clutch accelerates the onset of crankwalk as it pushes the crank toward the front of the car (wearing the side of the crank journal out).
 
Also just to add to Robs comment: bad habits from drivers with uprated pressure plates constantly sitting stationary with the clutch depressed in just adds extra unnecessary pressure on the crank and bearing promoting crank walk.

Its a hard habit to break unless your disciplined
 
EVO-00X said:
Na wouldnt really be a clogged oil squirter fault George as when they work they actually rob oil from the galleries and squirt oil up under the piston skirts. I believe most turbo 4G63T RVR engines didnt even come out with oil squirters (only certain models did). Its the design of the 7 bolt block and having a heavy duty clutch accelerates the onset of crankwalk as it pushes the crank toward the front of the car (wearing the side of the crank journal out).



what actually happens rob is the squirter check valves jam open, not closed and what that does is starve the crank of oil because as you said they feed from the same oil gallery.

we have had heaps of starions doing exactly that as they also run squirters.

my original engine suffered crank walk and i had two stuck squirter check valves.

so far my engine has only done a few hundred kays but no sign of walk or any sign of worn bearings in the few oil changes I have done so far.

I have a 3200lb pressure plate and the advice I was given when I expressed concern about crankwalk was that it is not clutch related but can be accentuated by a heavy clutch if you already have it.

they are my thoughts from my experience anyway.
 
Well unfortunately for me it looks like i may have the start of crankwalk on my GSR (EVO 2 engine)

clutch felt a bit weird this arvo, i checked the crank pulley just now, and there is a couple of mm movement in it...

not really happy at the moment...

can i get away with having the crank machined and new bearings thrown in, or is it going to mean rebuild?

sorry to hijack your thread dude...

:(
 
i'm not sure about just getting thicker bearings, i think it depends on how much yours is actually warn.

all i know is mine has way to much movement and a new crank is needed. Mine moves alot more than 2mm though
 
does the crank pully have any movement under idle?

I had a look at mine last night and the crank pully didn't move at all under idle or low revs.

If it does have crank-walk - wouldnt the crank pulley be moving around under idle?

Leads me to believe there isnt an issue, maybe i was seeing things?
 
well after months of not driving it and going out and buying another toy.


the evo is now at the mechanics with a new eagle crank being fitted and new pressure plate with less pressure.


new bearings

and hopefully not much more,

Any one know if its likely to have damaged the pistons/rings/bores?

Andrew
 
brand new eagle crank, new bearings, modified pressure plate and differnt pivot point, now the clutch pedal is lighter then the one in my swift gti, but has more clamping force.

crank has groove marks in it, bearings on one side are about 1mm thick, other side about 4-5mm (what ever was std)


everything else was ok and not damaged

i will try and put some pics up later
 
I just paid cost price for the parts needed and then labour was cheaper for me so wasnt too bad.

yes would of been better if it didnt happen but yeah was 1/2 my fault for clutch choice so cant complain to much.

end of the day i got the car back and its running fine now. Just need to play around with a bit of clutch adjustment later in the week when i get time.

also want to get a 2nd rocker cover smooth it off and paint it black.



here are some pics, its a bit hard to see, but theres about 1mm or so of groove in one side of the metal the bearings touch.

the bearings them self were super wafer thin on one side


IMG_1920.jpg




IMG_1918.jpg




IMG_1917.jpg
 
GROOV3 said:
I just paid cost price for the parts needed and then labour was cheaper for me so wasnt too bad.

yes would of been better if it didnt happen but yeah was 1/2 my fault for clutch choice so cant complain to much.

end of the day i got the car back and its running fine now. Just need to play around with a bit of clutch adjustment later in the week when i get time.

also want to get a 2nd rocker cover smooth it off and paint it black.



here are some pics, its a bit hard to see, but theres about 1mm or so of groove in one side of the metal the bearings touch.

the bearings them self were super wafer thin on one side


IMG_1920.jpg




IMG_1918.jpg




IMG_1917.jpg


bit off topic but that would look mad as a coffee table with a clear top....
 
yeah had forged rods, forged pistons but went for just a 4g64 oem crank and good bearings.

the clutch fucked the oem crank so while it was needed to be re changed i figured i would buy a eagle crank.


orginally the car was only going to be a 2lt with forged rods and pistons but got the offer of the oem 2.4 crank. (couldnt afford an eagle crank at the time)
 

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