dodgy CAS? engine stops when hot

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BMGTZ

Grumpy old man from the school of hard knocks
Joined
Mar 9, 2007
Messages
4,555
Location
southside of perth WA
one of my GSRs has developed a fault today. when its cold its fine but after its been driven for awhile it cuts out. as if the key was switched off.

I thought it may have been the ignitor and coils...being heat related. so changed these out.

then I found the plastic around ignitor plug was cracked....cable tied for a secure connection.

problem is still there.....:angry::angry::angry::angry:

the last thing that was done to the car was installation of an immobilizer on Saturday....I have tied pulling the fuse on the immobilizer and seeing what happens but it doesn't seem to help.

its seems as thought the only way it will restart is to switch off the ignition for a few minutes....this seems to allow it to cool down and it will then go again for a couple of minutes.

the fuel pump is a new walbro and is running....fuel supply hose is hard so I think there is fuel to the rail even when it stops.

so is a CAS susceptible to overheats? it was very humid here and 39 degrees today when the problem was at its worst......late in the day when it cooled down it took a long longer for the problem to present.
 
one of my GSRs has developed a fault today. when its cold its fine but after its been driven for awhile it cuts out. as if the key was switched off.

I thought it may have been the ignitor and coils...being heat related. so changed these out.

then I found the plastic around ignitor plug was cracked....cable tied for a secure connection.

problem is still there.....:angry::angry::angry::angry:

the last thing that was done to the car was installation of an immobilizer on Saturday....I have tied pulling the fuse on the immobilizer and seeing what happens but it doesn't seem to help.

its seems as thought the only way it will restart is to switch off the ignition for a few minutes....this seems to allow it to cool down and it will then go again for a couple of minutes.

the fuel pump is a new walbro and is running....fuel supply hose is hard so I think there is fuel to the rail even when it stops.

so is a CAS susceptible to overheats? it was very humid here and 39 degrees today when the problem was at its worst......late in the day when it cooled down it took a long longer for the problem to present.

im no pro but from what you've said maybe its the immobiliser? could it be faulty/installed wrong perhaps?
just a few guesses
 
Is the immobilezer used on the alarm set as normally open our normally closed?

Pulling the fuse will make no difference if it is a normally closed relay as the relay will cut/activate with 12v active. (car will still run with the fuse pulled)

But the relay itself could be faulty so maybe try and swap it out. Our a surer way to confirm that it is not the relay is by bridging the connection with a wire to see if it helps.
 
well I think I have finally solved this issue..and what believe the the cause was is a bit embarrassing :unsure:

after having sought the information on how to bypass the immobilizer .........I can now nick cars with a Phillips head screw driver and two bits of wire....but that is another story.

so I bypassed the immobilizer and still the issue was there.

so I got a CAS out of the shed....from a 4g93T gsr.....they have the same guts .....swapped that over into my housing. then as i was reinstalling all the parts I noticed that the positive battery lead was loose....not super loose. but could be moved easily.

so after that was tightened and all the bits reassembled....I took her for a drive ....about 25k and not a problem. so since I had the old CAS in the back and I was suspicious that it was the battery lead....I did a roadside change out. then another 50km.

still no problems..left idling for ten minutes to heat everything up.....still no problem.......I guess its the stupid things I should check first from now on.

BUT in my defence.......the guy that installed the immobiliser took the terminal off!!

yep he has "HAD A CALL":rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
The engine will still run off the alternator even without a battery. A loose terminal would only give starting troubles.
Unless of course, the alternator is on the way out, and wasn't supplying ample charge to the battery, causing the engine to use the battery's charge.

I'd get the alternator checked out and some new brushes chucked in.
 
The engine will still run off the alternator even without a battery. A loose terminal would only give starting troubles.
Unless of course, the alternator is on the way out, and wasn't supplying ample charge to the battery, causing the engine to use the battery's charge.

I'd get the alternator checked out and some new brushes chucked in.
there werent any starting issues at all.......strange as that may seem.

i think the loose terminal must have had rising resistance as it got hot. the the voltage "may have risen" above the 16v threshold that kills the ecu.

anyway that seems to have cured it......every thing else checked out.
 
its always the simplest problems that can really piss us off with our cars.......... i think we all know this by now :)
 
its always the simplest problems that can really piss us off with our cars.......... i think we all know this by now :)


yep me too.....was doing me head in :blink:

any way....gear box coming out today because Ive sold the car.....open diff rvr box going in. then I will only have two the evo1 and the gsr {red one} happy it sold but sad because it really is the best one Ive ever driven! low kms and really tight chassis
 

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