Evo 1 GSR not starting, odd situation yet similar to countless others.

4GTuner

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Evl20t
Looks like a good one.
Pin 5 is ok for no connection. Its labelled vcc I dont know what it does. (I dont think it connects on the board?)
Pin 4-2 I dont think should have a reverse connection.

Nup shouldnt have reverse connection. But the other numbers dont support that reverse reading. Is it correct?
 
I just checked all of the ICs, they all have reverse between 4-2

No all the others don't have a reading in reverse
 
Yep me too.
Out of the board is different.
A few readings are different. If it was me I would pull the ic to test it properly. (And once pulled, why not replace with new one if you have the parts)
Generally I think its pretty obvious when one is blown and needs changing

If I was celeb, i would have replaced it. Harder if you dont have the bits tho.
Its hard for me to advise someone they need to spend money here (or there) to fix a issue. Especially if I turn out to be wrong. But even in this case a we have done everything a auto sparky (and would not have fixed it and charged anyway) would have done and most of what a electronics guru would do.

Celeb, buy a couple of chips (or rob them from another ecu) and get it changed. Get the local tv tech to do it. Would be about $40 over here...
The guys at ecmlink do board repairs. Look them up. At least they are closer than I am.
 
This ECU has already had them replaced and the caps replaced when the Eeprom was bayed... this is the 1 from my car before I got the Haltech
 
You still think it's that ic108 chip then jack? Also I will get a proper tester today that reads like yours and repost it up.

The board work is easy to have done, my friend is very good. Will just need to source the chip out. Doubt mitsu will be able to order them so I think I may have to find a donor dsm board I guess.

We can rule out the rest of the car still right?

My father in law [owners dad] is coming to New Zealand on a trip in a week and has said he can grab one, that he has apparently sourced one or two ecu's on websites. Will see. I provided him the ecu numbers to be sure.
 
You can pull the ic from most mitsubishi cars ecu.
Probably any metal cased mitsi ecu.

Yep I would still put a stubby on it being ic108.
Would be good to get correct readings.
I can go back one more level to the transistors that switch the ic. Ive never had to change one, noone I heard of has either.

I think the accident may have pumped a surge down the aircon wire and it weakened the ic or blew the ac part and weakened the pump part.
 
Ok cool, I'm sure I can find dud mitsu ecu's then. I will get searching.


Will have my friend replace ic108.

Will find a tester today that gives readings like yours.


I still can't figure out why the aircon actuating rod just clicks and clicks when the system is off but as soon as I hit the fan up button it stops. Ever come across this? I don't care about the ticking, I am just curious if the ticking is an indicator with the relation of the aircon and the ecu we are having. I know it never did that before. It is a mechanical tick. If it simply has nothing to do with it I'm fine.

Thanks again, sorry for any frustrations I may have caused.
 
I am not familiar with the aircon at all. I dont even know what the ecu does with the aircon. (Guessing it turns it off if the car overheats?) You have some dodgy wiring up front still tho.
It may be to do with the ic, not really sure.
 
Dont pull the ic out, you will do bad damage. I just use the weight of some long nose pliers. Put a big blob of solder that covers all 8 pins at once. Get all the solder runny and ic should fall out. Sucker the holes in the board clean. Then replace ic
 
Pin1-pin8 0.693 / nil
Pin7-8 0.693 / nil
Pin4-1 0.543 / nil
Pin4-7 0.543 / nil
Pin4-2 0.547 / 1.046
Pin4-3 0.610 / 2.041
Pin5-3 1.662 / 2.212
Pin4-5 0.505 / 1.804
Pin4-6 0.683 / 1.289
Pin5-6 1.684 / 1.719
Pin4-8 0.489 / nil
 
Its fingered dude.
Not just std fingered, its had the minibus. 3 in the front and 8 in the back...

Both sides are blown, the aircon and the fuel pump.

Personally after you replace the ic, I would remove the ac plug wire fom the ecu till the ac is sorted
 
Sounds good.

So replace IC108 and remove wire 8 from the ecu?

I have three black fuses/relays in the passenger side at the front of the car along the fender wall under the hood. The ones I spoke about before how two wires are corroded off of the the furthest front one. I assume that would probably cause the issue to the ecu.

I will replace ic108 [my friend will] and remove that wire. I will probably snip it a little bit back and put a connector in, then can resolder and shrink wrap the wire when fixed.

What all does the aircon control. Wasn't sure if it is what it sounds like with a/c in the car or if it is rad fan.
 
I think you said pin22 was ac?
You can just remove the connector out of the ecu plug. Its a bit tricky the first time but be patient with it. There is a little clip to hold down with a small screwdriver.

If the main power feed come off the relay and touched the wire into the ecu, that would stuff it nicely
 
true, looked quickly at pic seeing it's evo 8. looked back at my evo 1 and yep 22. will be a bit to get this done,
 
you won't need to depin the ecu plug just unplug the ac loom from the engine harness its the first large square one after the washer fluid bottle
 
Ok I will try that, I know the connector you mean khubner. If someone can second that option that would be great.

Jack - Can I just buy some of those chips from you? I will pay the express shipping and all. If not I will have to test and post the results on the one I find to be sure it's good. This would be much easier to me.
 

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