LSD problems?

4GTuner

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Try giving a cusco reseller a ring, I don't doubt that they make a rebuild kit for the diff (it would be pretty short sighted of them not to, or to design it to be rebuilt with off-the-shelf parts... repeat business :D)

Yep, check it out

I don't think it should make that noise.. it sounds bad. Then again, it is a race diff, they might be MEANT to make that noise?
 
lancerevo92 said:
VR-4Squid said:
hmm, sounds abit like a stuffed cv....

DIESTI said:
my lsd clunks hard like its locking up not like that.
mine also clunks and the inside rear tire skips, not like that at all.

what is a stuffed cv? and where under the car can i support the rear off the ground with jacks?

A CV is the joint on your drive shafts the part under the rubber boot. you can jack your car up from the contol arms where they meet the body. there will be a triangle metal peice that goes to your wheel and to the body of the car jack the car from these points as they are a strong point to jack your car up from.
 
lancerevo92 said:
i know what a cv joint is, but what do you mean by stuffed? Don't forget, this sound only occurs when the diff warms up.

stuffed = broken, faulty, ect
 
how can a person find out? give me a detailed way of finding out if you know, it be greatly appreciated. And if you know, how much time would a shop charge to install a new clutch? (i know where to buy one for $440, and i plan on get my timing belt replaced at the same time too)
 
so i have a link that shows the internals of my LSD >>> http://www.cusco.co.jp/en/parts_product/products/lsd_typers_typemz.htm
i have the type MZ, from this diagram, i can assume that the sound would be the pinion gear hopping in the grooves of the pressure plate, or the sound of the pressure plates compressing back together, and i figure the sound is normal, but can be lessened if i use a non synthetic oil (thinner oil = less of a buffer between the pressure plates, thicker = like a rubber seal if you were to compare) could i be correct?
 
so i changed the oil in the diff with Quaker State 75w 140 full synthetic, added 40ml of friction modifier. It seems to run 'wierder'. It runs fine when i first drive the car, but as it warms up, it seems to skip a clunk or two (which seems better) but than with more turning, it gets worse where it begins to make the sound while i'm off the pedal, and in reverse. I did notice when i was changing the fluid, it released air as i was undoing the bolt. Any ideas? i'm gonna put it up on jacks this weekend (hopefully) and disconnect the propeller shaft so i can hear it better when it makes the sound.
 
Liberoz said:
VR-4Squid said:
Castrol LSX 90 is what you want, for both the gearbox and rear differential.
Fill them each until the fluid starts coming out of the filler hole - sorted.

Just note when filling up the transfer case there is two chambers.
So fill it up till it over flows, let it sit for 10-15mins come back and fill it up again & doesn't hurt to leave it again and come back before topping it up and capping it off. it does take quite a while for the oil to get to the front filling chamber to the rear ;)

Thought I had heard that before, thanks for confirming it :) LSX90 for my diffs and transfer case and then something else for my gear box.... thought I was going to have to get like 100 different oils like for my pajero.
 
lancerevo92 said:
so i changed the oil in the diff with Quaker State 75w 140 full synthetic, added 40ml of friction modifier. It seems to run 'wierder'. It runs fine when i first drive the car, but as it warms up, it seems to skip a clunk or two (which seems better) but than with more turning, it gets worse where it begins to make the sound while i'm off the pedal, and in reverse. I did notice when i was changing the fluid, it released air as i was undoing the bolt. Any ideas? i'm gonna put it up on jacks this weekend (hopefully) and disconnect the propeller shaft so i can hear it better when it makes the sound.


Are you sure thats proper clutch type LSD oil? I dont think it is. You need to read what we are telling you properly.
 
the quaker state stuff said for lsd's, and i cannot source out any sae 90 lsd oils in canada, they do not sell it here due to our temperatures. Apparently some guy just told me my lsd is a 2 way, and is normal for it to be that loud cause its designed for racing not daily driving. true or not, it still drives me nuts LOL. Maybe i will have a distributer send me a few bottle of that castrol lsx 90 to canada, or get the cusco stuff.
 
Apparently some guy just told me my lsd is a 2 way, and is normal for it to be that loud cause its designed for racing not daily driving. true or not, it still drives me nuts

It's true, basically your options are either a: deal with it, or b: give your cusco diff's to me and fit some normal open/viscous stock diffs.

Sorry to be blunt but if you want racecar like performance (and this applies to engine, suspension, brakes, every bit of the car, not just diffs) you have to put up with the downside, which is a car that drives like sh1t at low speeds.
 
lancerevo92 said:
the quaker state stuff said for lsd's, and i cannot source out any sae 90 lsd oils in canada, they do not sell it here due to our temperatures. Apparently some guy just told me my lsd is a 2 way, and is normal for it to be that loud cause its designed for racing not daily driving. true or not, it still drives me nuts LOL. Maybe i will have a distributer send me a few bottle of that castrol lsx 90 to canada, or get the cusco stuff.


As you sure that is oil for clutch type LSD?
 
lancerevo92 said:
wow, apparently i have a td06 turbo? what does this mean in terms of horsepower? and how do i read what size injectors i have and know if i have proper sized injectors for the turbo?

Find a workshop with a wideband oxygen sensor and get them to check the air/fuel ratio, if they've got a dyno good, if not a good full throttle run in 3rd or 4th on the road will do.

Having a td06 means you have the potential for more power that stock, if the car is setup right for it.

How much boost are you running?
 
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