Hyper_Mike
Well-Known Member
Is that wear the oil leaks from the seals?
Smoking 4g63T
- Thread starter Hyper_Mike
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4piknup
master of none
Nup, if its smoking its either dumping oil pust the turbine seal into exhaust or exhaust getting pumped past turbine into sump and then getting blown into crankcase breather into engine.
You can check the seals by wiggling the turbo shaft.
I think that would blow more smoke at higher revs tho.
Thats why I think its the stem seals and thats why I said get a dry and wet compression test and a leakdown test has been suggested too.
I dont understand why you want to buy someone elses maybe stuffed turbo that will cost more than buying the correct test gear or paying someone to diagnose what is actually going on in your engine. You may even get a good turbo, and still have a engine that smokes and is still down on compression.
Fix what you have before putting bits on it.
Diagnose your problem with tests before throwing parts and rebuilds at it.
If your mobile phone wont work, do you;
A) take it to the shop to replace it?
B) take it to the man to fix it?
C) buy a new battery for it?
D) test to see if its turned on?
Get the tests done ffs
You can check the seals by wiggling the turbo shaft.
I think that would blow more smoke at higher revs tho.
Thats why I think its the stem seals and thats why I said get a dry and wet compression test and a leakdown test has been suggested too.
I dont understand why you want to buy someone elses maybe stuffed turbo that will cost more than buying the correct test gear or paying someone to diagnose what is actually going on in your engine. You may even get a good turbo, and still have a engine that smokes and is still down on compression.
Fix what you have before putting bits on it.
Diagnose your problem with tests before throwing parts and rebuilds at it.
If your mobile phone wont work, do you;
A) take it to the shop to replace it?
B) take it to the man to fix it?
C) buy a new battery for it?
D) test to see if its turned on?
Get the tests done ffs
Hyper_Mike
Well-Known Member
Yea mate im waiting for the tester to come into stock damn Repco didnt have any. I have every intention to do the tests on Monday and will be posting the results to see what you guys think.
Calm your socks!
Calm your socks!
4piknup
master of none
Ok.
My socks are calm.
I just get excited is all
I dont want to show pics of my home made cylinder leak down tester. They all laughed at my boost leak tester...
My socks are calm.
I just get excited is all
I dont want to show pics of my home made cylinder leak down tester. They all laughed at my boost leak tester...
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
Show him Cheech....
4piknup
master of none
Have to be later as its at the other shed. But its a wonky block of ali and I didnt have a drill press to make the gauge mounting holes straight.evo-gsr said:
Its a bit like the house that jack built... function over form. but ive had it 13odd years. I have nearly a dozen adaptors for it by now for different spark plugs.
Hyper_Mike
Well-Known Member
Hahahah no worries l man ill do the test tomorrow hopefully get some good results
Hyper_Mike
Well-Known Member
Ok man so I have finally done the tests and the results are below.jack of all said:
C1 D: 140 W: 140
C2 D: 135 W: 150
C3 D: 135 W: 145
C4 D: 140 W: 160
So now I am confused. I don't have a leak down tester so I didn't do that test. Any ideas guys?
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
Have recently replaced my valve stem seals (130,000 km) all of my smoking and oil burning has stopped completely.
Just done a 3,000 km trip and have used no oil at all and all of that smoking after idling and the oil burning smell has stopped.
My symptoms were exactly as you described and my compression test was bad too (I have another post to update)
I was also seriously thinking about a rebuild, but having done the seals and stopped all of the smoking it's not warranted.
The compression test figures are
Standard 1270 Kpa,, Minimum 880 Kpa,, Max difference 98 Kpa
In English 184 psi, 127 psi, 14 psi
So your compression figures look pretty good (and a lot better than mine)
You can't do the job without taking the camshafts off and to do that the timing belt has to come off
It is not necessary to take the head off to replace the stem seals. (there are some good videos on youtube)
If you are good at reading and interpreting instructions and have some mechanical knowledge it is not an impossible task but requires a bit of equipment
In particular a pair of good solid jack stands so you can safely work under the car, and a jack to prop the motor up when you take the LHS engine mount off
(Ohh it is a LOT of fun taking the pulleys off and getting the timing cover bolts out)
Beg buy or borrow THIS tool for the 4g63 valve springs don't waste money like I did buying anything else, this one is the good ****
http://www.euroexportinc.com/mitsubishi-4g63-valve-spring-compressor
Looking at the web site I wish i had seen this one too
http://www.euroexportinc.com/mitsubishi-4g63-cam-gear-lock-timing-belt-installation-tool-tbi10002
Just done a 3,000 km trip and have used no oil at all and all of that smoking after idling and the oil burning smell has stopped.
My symptoms were exactly as you described and my compression test was bad too (I have another post to update)
I was also seriously thinking about a rebuild, but having done the seals and stopped all of the smoking it's not warranted.
The compression test figures are
Standard 1270 Kpa,, Minimum 880 Kpa,, Max difference 98 Kpa
In English 184 psi, 127 psi, 14 psi
So your compression figures look pretty good (and a lot better than mine)
You can't do the job without taking the camshafts off and to do that the timing belt has to come off
It is not necessary to take the head off to replace the stem seals. (there are some good videos on youtube)
If you are good at reading and interpreting instructions and have some mechanical knowledge it is not an impossible task but requires a bit of equipment
In particular a pair of good solid jack stands so you can safely work under the car, and a jack to prop the motor up when you take the LHS engine mount off
(Ohh it is a LOT of fun taking the pulleys off and getting the timing cover bolts out)
Beg buy or borrow THIS tool for the 4g63 valve springs don't waste money like I did buying anything else, this one is the good ****
http://www.euroexportinc.com/mitsubishi-4g63-valve-spring-compressor
Looking at the web site I wish i had seen this one too
http://www.euroexportinc.com/mitsubishi-4g63-cam-gear-lock-timing-belt-installation-tool-tbi10002
Have you ever thought about having worn piston rings or worst, cracked piston part between rings. Last time i did diagnose someone's rvr after wet and dry test i said the same and after he pulled the pistons out, number one had a crack. ( must be due to running lean under high boost)
I recon your cylinder number 1 is gone. They're known to run leaner then the other 3 due to inlet manifold design.
Rvr should be around 175psi compression as far as I know.
The one I diagnosed was:
1. D150 W185
2. D180 W190
3. D150 W180
4. D180 W190
Just my opinion mate.
I recon your cylinder number 1 is gone. They're known to run leaner then the other 3 due to inlet manifold design.
Rvr should be around 175psi compression as far as I know.
The one I diagnosed was:
1. D150 W185
2. D180 W190
3. D150 W180
4. D180 W190
Just my opinion mate.
Hyper_Mike
Well-Known Member
Yea that's what I'm worried about 
I think I'm going to just have to take it somewhere that they know what their doing and get them to have a look.
I think I'm going to just have to take it somewhere that they know what their doing and get them to have a look.
Is your car boosted or any other modes that could lead to this.? It is unlikely to happen to stock setup car unless somethinig went wrong.Hyper_Mike said:Yea that's what I'm worried about
I think I'm going to just have to take it somewhere that they know what their doing and get them to have a look.
Hyper_Mike
Well-Known Member
Nope my car is running stock boost 10psi and running a turbosmart boost gauge. Car seems low on power while not on boost, and even then still low on power.vr401 said:
Hyper_Mike said:
Being auto you should feel nice pull down low due to a quick turbo spool up. Even stock you should feel when turbo kicks in at around 2800rpm on your auto.Hyper_Mike said:
Some mechanics have telescope alike camera with light that can go through spark plug hole and then you can see your pistons and cilynder walls.
Any vertical marks will sugest that sometning is scratching the bore.
It is easy to take the head and pull pistons out with basic mechanical skills. There sbould be someone in your area to help you out to put it togheter. It doesn't cost even $500 for all parts including pistons, rings and conrod bearings.
Friend of mine is doing this now on his rvr after he found out that piston 1 snaped between rings. He is good with tools and after few of my instructions on how to he is almost finished. He even pulled the block out.
Cheers
4piknup
master of none
My interpretation is that this engine needs the valves relapped. The oil hasnt lifted the compression test much more than 10%. Do the valve stems while you are at it.Hyper_Mike said:
Do a leakdown test to comfirm
4piknup
master of none
As promised here is my homemade leakdown tester. The left gauge reads compressor pressure and I regulate it to 100psi. There is a small bleed orofice between the 2 gauges (1mm ish) and so the right gauge reads cylinder pressure.
The sparkplug end is a sparkplug with the porcelain smashed out and a metal tube araldited in that the hose fits to. Different engine, build new adaptor..
Hyper_Mike
Well-Known Member
Hopefully that "all" it is, should I be concerned about the low compression across all cyl? I did all tests twice (one after the other) and got the same numbers.jack of all said:
evo-gsr
Well-Known Member
If it turns out to be pistons/rods I have a set here from my Evo( if they are the same as RVR?) which I will sell cheap. With only 15,000 ks on them.
Hyper_Mike
Well-Known Member
I hope it doesn't turn out to be...
4piknup
master of none
I think its low across the board because of a few of the valves leaking.
Leak down test on cylinder1 would be most interesting. If it was to show 15% leakage or so you know it is all valves (or head gasket) either way.
You need all the tests to give a good idea of engine condition especially if something is wrong. Either test will show you a good engine, but wont pinpoint a worn engines issues. (Maybe you could do a lower pressure leakdown test with oil in cylinder)
The oil in the wet test will momentarily seal the worn rings. So it gives you what it would be if the rings were good.
Leak down test on cylinder1 would be most interesting. If it was to show 15% leakage or so you know it is all valves (or head gasket) either way.
You need all the tests to give a good idea of engine condition especially if something is wrong. Either test will show you a good engine, but wont pinpoint a worn engines issues. (Maybe you could do a lower pressure leakdown test with oil in cylinder)
The oil in the wet test will momentarily seal the worn rings. So it gives you what it would be if the rings were good.
