Smoking 4g63T

4GTuner

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jack of all said:
I think its low across the board because of a few of the valves leaking.
Leak down test on cylinder1 would be most interesting. If it was to show 15% leakage or so you know it is all valves (or head gasket) either way.

You need all the tests to give a good idea of engine condition especially if something is wrong. Either test will show you a good engine, but wont pinpoint a worn engines issues. (Maybe you could do a lower pressure leakdown test with oil in cylinder)

The oil in the wet test will momentarily seal the worn rings. So it gives you what it would be if the rings were good.
Click to expand...
Yea mate, I might buy a leak down tester or just take it somewhere to get it done. Hopefully its only valves, alot cheaper then full rebuild. How much should it cost to get fixed around?
 
Sorry man you should know me by now. Just do it myself. Gotta buy a top overhaul kit for a few gaskets and seals and stem seals.
My valve spring compressor is a bunnings fclamp and a bit of pipe with a hole cut in the side to access collets.
I have hand lapping compound. I use a cordless drill and a bit of vacuum hose to spin valves. Kero to check valve seal when done...
Cost sfa...just time. I dunno what a shop would charge... last one I did for a chicks car was she mow my lawn (not cut my grass) for 6mths and buy the top kit

Leakdown testers are cheap now. But you need a compressor to run it.
 
Yea man no dramas I have a few compressors for the air tools. I might just buy the kit with gaskets and stem seals and take it somewhere let them get oily.
 
I'd take it to a shop to get the leak down test done if I were you mate, it'll save you time, money and confusion.
 
Django said:
I'd take it to a shop to get the leak down test done if I were you mate, it'll save you time, money and confusion.
Click to expand...
Yea sounds like a good idea, this might be a stupid question and I know WHAT a leak down test does, but what will it show/prove? What should I look for in the test?

Cheers, Mike
 
It pumps air into cylinder at tdc.
For eg. You know that cylinder1 didnt improve with oil added. So any leakage is not past rings. If it has say 100psi on my left gauge and 80 on right then you listen for the air leak. There should be a sfa air at filler cap and a fair bit from exhaust and/or intake. Hopefully none at radiator cap.
Moving to cylinder 2 you are going to see some leakage at filler cap as indicated. But you need to allow for that and sort of comparing how much is coming out the exhaust or intake to cyl1.

Personally If the leak test was going to be $100 for the mechanic to do it I would just spend that on the hg and stuff the test. But as you are sending the job out it should give you some idea of what to expect after doing the head up.
Its not just the numbers on a leakdown its how much air is coming from where.
 
I agree with Penngwynnes thoughts. Have a crack and a punt, and replace the valve stem seals first. Many a "written" off motor I have done just had crystalline hard valve stem seals ( see Jacks explanation on why they then smoke).
Disregard BMGTZ and Penngwnnnes assertion that the cambelt has to come off. No, it doesnt ( at least when I do the job ). Its the same deal when swapping cams out. All you do is cable tie securely the sprockets to the cambelt. Ease the hydraulic belt tensioner piston back in with a 350mm x 8mm x 1.25 threaded rod. Make sure the car is in gear, battery disconnected and the handbrake pulled on firmly. This is to ensure the crank doesnt move. If it does ... THEN the cam covers will have to come off LOL. Ensure the cam timing is set at TDC compression stroke for #1 cylinder. Remove cam shafts and away you go. Note that my valve spring compressor is a very very custom made jobby. Works well though ( remember to pump the cylinders up with compressed air... a leak down tester does a good job)
 
Well i bought a leak down tester and it was only $30 so hopefully it gets delivered tomorrow and I will do the test. Heres to hoping its just valves/seals!
 
Good on you for buying the tool.
Now even if you have to buy a engine, (lawn mower, dirt bike, car...), you can test it to your own satisfaction.
Google- interpret leak down test to give you more info. There was a few pages of results.

Gotta be bang on tdc for the test or motor will spin
 
Jack... in gear, handbrake on, or at least a bar between the seat and foot brake pedal = no more crank turning while doing a leak down test
 
blackvr said:
I agree with Penngwynnes thoughts. Have a crack and a punt, and replace the valve stem seals first. Many a "written" off motor I have done just had crystalline hard valve stem seals ( see Jacks explanation on why they then smoke).
Disregard BMGTZ and Penngwnnnes assertion that the cambelt has to come off. No, it doesnt ( at least when I do the job ). Its the same deal when swapping cams out. All you do is cable tie securely the sprockets to the cambelt. Ease the hydraulic belt tensioner piston back in with a 350mm x 8mm x 1.25 threaded rod. Make sure the car is in gear, battery disconnected and the handbrake pulled on firmly. This is to ensure the crank doesnt move. If it does ... THEN the cam covers will have to come off LOL. Ensure the cam timing is set at TDC compression stroke for #1 cylinder. Remove cam shafts and away you go. Note that my valve spring compressor is a very very custom made jobby. Works well though ( remember to pump the cylinders up with compressed air... a leak down tester does a good job)
Click to expand...
Yes seals are easier than pulling off the head etc.
I hadn't actually thought about cable tie-ing the cam belt. However mine is an auto and putting compressed air into the cylinders would probably move the crank?
I am also VERY paranoid about getting all the timing marks lined up right. (I still have balance shafts.)
When I did my seals I used a length of rope in the cylinder to stop the valves falling in. (don't have an air compressor) .
This meant I had to rotate the crankshaft anyway to get the pistons up to the top for each cylinder so taking off the cam belt (and the timing covers) was a given.
If you are using compressed air you could somehow stop the crankshaft from turning with a 1/2 sq drive in the crank nut and a bar jammed in somewhere, but it doesn't have to move far to stuff everything up.

I MUST get one of those rods made up it would have made life a lot easier.
 
Hey,
No results as yet, i have purchased a TD05 16G to see if it might be the turbo leaking most the oil however I am yet to fit it as apparently its not just a bolt up job as I believed.
Hopefully over the next week or two I can knuckle down and get this knocked over :)
 

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