Street Performance

[BobWrinkle]

Kinda on topic...While the gearbox is off I am getting new synchro is there anything else i should be thinking of?

Will synchro make the gearbox nice and tight like a brand new box?

 

[Entaran]

Replace your shift forks with steel items and get double synchro's on first and second, not just replacements. (which are still single and still won't shift well high RPM).

 

[jett]

One of the things that makes your gearbox "feel" really nice and tight is getting a good metal bush for the gear stick - the factory items are useless plastic crap which wear out and cause alot of slop in the selector. I just got a engineering shop to machine some up for me. Makes the shift feel awesome - even if your gearbox is a bit on the older side... 8)

 

[JSTYLE]

MHI turbo's on a mitsubishi are great. Very streetable and great useable power band. Im making power from around 2500rpm all the way til around 7000rpm all with a small 16g and camshafts.

Im also running 560cc injectors and walbro fuel pump. Have run as fast as 117.52mph on 20psi which mean it should be making around 210kw ATW. Im also running a chipped ecu.

I would highly recommend a 16g of some sort. Whether i be off the shelf or custom.

ATPGSR is using a hiflow TD05H on his car, its making 272kw ATW and runs 11.4 @ 124mph.

Ive used garrett turbos and roller bearings but i think that the MHI turbo's are great turbos for all round package.

Mind you all the above is EXPERIENCE, not heresay.

Jon

 

[BobWrinkle]

Ok in Melb so cant check very well but...

The plan is to send my turbo to some dood they chuck a GT28 RS wheel or something in it and keep the 14b rear housing.

350hp is supposed to be good for.

Would love feed back.

Aim is quick spool and 200kw atws

And was quoted alot for gearbox as bearings have to come from ralliart etc.

Have you guys heard this before?

Cheers
Cade

 

[JSTYLE]

Ok in Melb so cant check very well but...

The plan is to send my turbo to some dood they chuck a GT28 RS wheel or something in it and keep the 14b rear housing.

350hp is supposed to be good for.

Would love feed back.

Aim is quick spool and 200kw atws

And was quoted alot for gearbox as bearings have to come from ralliart etc.

Have you guys heard this before?

Cheers
Cade

Thats silly when a 16g can do this and its bolt on off the shelf and also a stock evo turbo?

Jon

 

[GSRSOL]

MHI turbo's on a mitsubishi are great. Very streetable and great useable power band.

isnt MHI "mitsubishi heavy industries" IE genuine Mitsubishi turbos? In which case of course they should be good on a mitsubishi! 8)

ATPGSR is using a hiflow TD05H on his car, its making 272kw ATW and runs 11.4 @ 124mph.

Jon

He was running a TD06 front and BIG16G rear with some wacked out turbine/compressor wheel combination, definitely not your ordinary hiflow TD05.

Cade, I think you would wasting your time and money with that option.
Try and find something that isnt TOO big, has BB, and is a direct bolt on to a stock EVO/VR4 manifold.

 

[JSTYLE]

He was running a TD06 front and BIG16G rear with some wacked out turbine/compressor wheel combination, definitely not your ordinary hiflow TD05.

Cade, I think you would wasting your time and money with that option.
Try and find something that isnt TOO big, has BB, and is a direct bolt on to a stock EVO/VR4 manifold.

Its a TD06 Front Comp cover (3' snout) to suit a Garrett comp wheel with a mitsubishi core and an 070 rear end using a factory rear wheel.

It is more Mitsubishi then it is anything else so thats why i deemed it a 'hi flow'

Anything that is BB that will bolt onto the factory manifold etc your looking at around 2k PLUS!!!!!

Maybe a rough idea of a budget would be good too.

Jon

 

[JSTYLE]

It took a long time for the evolution of DSM powerplants to get to the point where 550-650 HP turbochargers were even needed. In the beginning, Mitsubishi Heavy Industries said "Let there be 16g's" and there were, and it was good. Later, 20g and larger Mitsu-Garrett hybrids such as the FPGreen and FPRed ruled the land. They offered additional airflow capacity while still bolting on to the original manifolds, oxygen sensor housings and oil/water lines.

If money isnt an issue.. the above would b my weapon of choice.. at $1350USD it isnt cheap.. plus freight plus import tax so your looking at around $1550USD landed + tax.. about ~2k

Jon

 

[EVO-00X]

What you need is a GT3071R (HKS GT28 specs with T25 flange) all the way bro.... check out this thread to save me from writing it all again :lol: : http://www.galantvr4.org.au/public/viewtopic.php?t=7305&highlight=gt3071r . Sure you can go the Mitsu big 16G and 20G route again but sooner or later you'll cross over to the GT BB.... everybody does... delaying the inevitable is futile... :lol: :twisted:

 

[Entaran]

You missed the whole goddamned point of being streetable EVO-00X. 3071R's don't boost until 3800-4000.

 

[EVO-00X]

You missed the whole goddamned point of being streetable EVO-00X. 3071R's don't boost until 3800-4000.

Well I happen to think that a GT3071R (GT28) is very streetable especially in a stock VR4/EVO because of its 0.50 A/R!! 8) What do you class as streetable? I'm thinking theres a lot of guys out there wanting boost to come in at 2000rpm to be classed as 'streetable'..... who da hell granny shifts from 6000rpm and lets the revs drop to 2000rpm

 

[JSTYLE]

when you start to get into turbos that are around 500hp plus.. you start moving into the external gate area which is also abit of money and setting up..

Jon

 

[Entaran]

Street driving doesn't usually include more than one 6k shift. That's usually 1st to 2nd.

I don't know about how you drive on the street but most of the rest of us don't get past the top end of 2nd as that's already 80-90 kmh (usually in a 50 or 60 zone).

 

[CLuTZ]

I rekon anything under 5000rpm is steetable!

 

[Entaran]

Very -very- very few people on god's green earth drive like you do dre

 

[CLuTZ]

Very -very- very few people on god's green earth drive like you do dre

Dont judge the way I drive by how loud my external is and how big the flames out of my exhaust are!

 

[EVO-00X]

Yeah I just drove home from work and I realised something.... there's a whole lot of us on here who drive all sorts of different cars, EVO's, GSR's, Lancers, VR4's, AWD's, FWD's and we all have different weights and gear and diff ratios. What is streetable to one bloke may not be streetable to another. I suppose the engines in smaller and lighter cars have no trouble coming up to rpm quicker and easier than the engine in a larger heavier car like a VR4 which would probably have to rely on boost coming on a bit earlier in the rpm range to help the engine along.

 

[Entaran]

Unfortunately I have to concede you make a good point.

 

[JAP63]

I cant agree with jett any better by him saying u cant beat 15 years of research.
Look at the materials we have now,HKS are expensive yes i know,but bolt it on and i bet u smile ear to ear,u are paying for all the work thats been done,no bullshit,u know its gonna be a good option,no creep,no surge,none of the problems,

I agree with jett on the GT2871R,You may get the shits with being onboost all the time but u want streetability right,These cars are not like nissans where the final drives and ratios let u go back to 2nd at 70-80 k and fuck off..Beleive me ive failed with my jaw open many a time to an s15.
Put a T3/4 next to an S15T28,years apart and literally leauges apart in performance.Technology is the word.

I dont know as much as many ppl on the forum about turbos,but when my mates s14 makes 320 Rear wheel Kw on 13 pound with basically a HKS BB turbo,it opened my eyes.the power wasnt made by cames or revs or boost,just the turbo.Pretty impresive.what ever choice you go with will be dependent on your budget,But newer will be better.

Personally i dont think the 14B in stock trim is all that good or early to come on,I put that in BOLD because i know ppl will shoot me down in flames for this statement,and i think theres nothing worse than someone who says they run a 14B and do 11 sec passes without explaining the full setup,A/R Trim,Ind/Exd Sizes etc.(no diss to J STYLE or anyone else who's played around with the standard stuff),

But the first time i heard it i was like what the fuk,only to discover the only thing left 14b about it might be the housing or some other small thing like that.I guess the point i make is Newer stuff will make more power at lesser or equal revs etc...

I think a good upgrade would be a turbo that is all in around 3300rpm and pulls to 6600-7000rpm..assuming u have stock cams,which are aimed at this area.Ball bearing hks 2530 would go close to suiting this right? But then i guess the spoolup can be accounted for by how good the inlet and exhaust manifold is.



Has anybody fitted a hks 2530 to a 4g63?