timming belt

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kb24

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 21, 2009
Messages
78
i had an unfortunate incident on the weekend i did a t belt on my 63t and when i pulled the tensioner off it looked good no leaks and the piston within specs so i put it all back together and checked the marks a shitload of times and then started it. Ran fine for about 20 mins then put the car on the ground and started it again and it sounded like a diesel , the belt had jumped 5 teeth and the valves hit hit the pistons. the only reason i can think of is the tensioner must be to blame:fuuuuu: any one have any ideas
 
I have learnt that lesson the hard way, if you replace the belt always replace the tensioner too.
I was fortunate that there was no damage done when my tensioner failed...I hope this is also the case for you!
 
yeah im pretty sure there is damage as there are marks on the pistons and valves but after reading a few manuals i found where i went wrong. the tensioner pulley was rotated the wrong way i wound it down when it should of gone up:eek: oh well my bad i guess i know now for next time
 
kb24 said:
yeah im pretty sure there is damage as there are marks on the pistons and valves but after reading a few manuals i found where i went wrong. the tensioner pulley was rotated the wrong way i wound it down when it should of gone up:eek: oh well my bad i guess i know now for next time

I did the same thing as you. Luckily I didn't incur any damage. It did however sound like a truck!!
 
Hypo said:
I did the same thing as you. Luckily I didn't incur any damage. It did however sound like a truck!!
yeah im hopeing, i sent it down to the head shop just waiting to hear the verdict it only idled for about 10-15 sec in total
 
anyone wanna make some coin and chuck it the belt on for me, ill normally would give it go but dont wanna make anymore costly mistakes
im west of sydney
pm me and we can work out a decent price
cheers
 
to4garret said:
just do it yourself, you know where you went wrong and im sure you wont make the same mistake again.
yea i know ive been thinking about it all day but there is that paranoid feeling ive got now:(
 
Meek Auto is at girraween and are very experienced with Evo's

I'd wait till you find out whats up with the head first.

as to4garret said you know where you went wrong so do it your self I hate doing them in the car Meek sell the tensioner special tool which goes into a 1/4 " drive socket handle which make doing the job in the car 10 times easier.

GL with let us know how you went.
 
kb24 said:
yeah im pretty sure there is damage as there are marks on the pistons and valves but after reading a few manuals i found where i went wrong. the tensioner pulley was rotated the wrong way i wound it down when it should of gone up:eek: oh well my bad i guess i know now for next time

was your tensioner gap 3.8-4.5mm after belt installation?

I can't see how you went wrong if you ended up with this gap. Afterall, the tension on the belt will be correct (and constant) with this gap. Anyone else?
 
^^Exactly what i thought.

If you turn the tensioner clockwise, wouldn't it hit the water pump before taking up the slack in the belt, hence when rotating the crank the quarter of a turn back, cause it to jump a few teeth?
 
when i turned the pulley all the way down so the 2 pin holes on the pulley were straight down the pulley wouldn't spin and left some strange marks on the belt, so i backed it off a fraction and looked at the tensioner gap and it was out a bit far but the belt had the same amount of tension so i gave it a go:thumbsdown: not a good idea mine is the vr4 though... and i followed that same manual on vfaq.com then i read the genuine wkshop and it told me to go the opposite way
 
kb24 said:
and i followed that same manual on vfaq.com then i read the genuine wkshop and it told me to go the opposite way

A vr4 is a 1G car, this is the link to the correct manual.
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

And in Step 28, it states
Rotate the tensioner pulley in a clockwise direction until the belt is taut and tighten the center bolt (Figure 18).

ALWAYS, leave it for 15 minutes or so, then rotate the motor and then re-check the tensioner gap (steps 34 & 35 of Vfaq).
That simple check would have saved your valves.
 
yeah its getting done now i got oversized valves from meek and they were heaps cheaper than the ones the engine shop quoted, but i thought they were both the same engine so it had to be the same procedure, maybe different engine mounts is reason
 
i follow the right instructions and it worked runs pretty good the only issues i have now is that its really hard to start in the morning when cold (probably takes about 2-3 mins of cranking) and its a hunting sometimes on idle when warm and its not even running a microtech its a meek ecu??? anyone have the same ideas i was thinking possible coolant temp sensor??
 

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