Track Car - What would you choose and Why

[GSRSOL]

Hey guys,

Im looking into getting a dedicated track car, and trying to work out what to go for.

Im keen on an E3 RS at this stage, but would probably be a little stupid if i wasnt considering later models also, such as a 5 or 6 RS.

A CC4A would be awesome also, although a decent one would be a PITA to find.

What would other people choose and why?

 

[jase]

What do you want Dan?

Personal challenge?
Something fast?

Personally I'd buy something more like a SR20DE Silvia. Good base, heaps of aftermarket support and cheapish spare parts around. I love my Evo's, but I would prefer to "learn the basics" in a RWD before jumping into something with mental power and AWD.

 

[SIVART]

Ive been looking at a Evo 3 just for track work, just for the chassis number so I can go in the evo nationals etc, plus the evo chassis is already built for it

depends on your budget and how much you want to do it, evo 5s are cheap these days and a stock car only needs a few mods to go fast, and are track ready

 

[GSRSOL]

Dont really want a RWD Jase.

As for power, nothing mental at all. Id rather keep it around the 200kw atw mark - but pull out all stops for the cage, suspension and brakes etc etc

Hence why an EVO RS (any model) would be a good starting point?

Id get a fresh one in from Japan whatever it turns out to be anyway...

 

[OFFON-4]

EVO 3, no electronics which mean it will allow you to drive the car like god originally intended. Driver driving the car rather than the other way around

Cheap, good chassis however have weak brakes which i see as the only down fall. Light cars once guttered and i personally think a good first track car.

My 2cents

 

[peasoup]

A mate bought an uncomplianced S6 RX-7 for 6K, it was in pieces and he is building it up at home to be a budget racer.

One obvious question, is that why would you want a track car that is very similar to your road car? I'd be after something very different. An old school RWD n/a would be a great car to learn in, very reliable and cheap to fix.

Getting something uncomplianced/unregisterable would be miles cheaper to begin with, is that the plan?

 

[bazeng]

VR4!!!!

 

[jase]

If you don't want a RWD then yeah I reckon an E3 RS would be cool. You'll need to get your CAMS L3 license beforehand though.

200awkw is still a lot. Personally I'd be trying to learn how to be fast with as little power as possible.

 

[GSRSOL]

Getting something uncomplianced/unregisterable would be miles cheaper to begin with, is that the plan?

Yep :w00t:

VR4!!!!

nah, too big and heavy baz, plus mainly the whole off-the-shelf parts availability issue...

If you don't want a RWD then yeah I reckon an E3 RS would be cool. You'll need to get your CAMS L3 license beforehand though.

200awkw is still a lot. Personally I'd be trying to learn how to be fast with as little power as possible.

Yes, excellent point...
One of the things that scared me at Sandown was not knowing what the car ive built is capable of. It would be much better learning how to drive quickly in something that hasnt been molested and you know (in theory) is going to hold to up to trackday punishment

 

[Dean]

I know of a Evo III GSR which needs a new motor which is going pretty cheap.

 

[Entaran]

Call martin griggs or phillip messer.

I personally think you should get a JA Starion and race that until it's dead and move upto an evo afterwards. Learning to race in an e3/6 is going to be a VERY VERY costly endeavour.

 

[Entaran]

That said, I'm personally using a vr4 for track work but that's because most of my motorsport isn't on tarmac.

 

[Jonson]

I was in the same position as you. I decided to start with the cheap basics. A Cordia GSR with VR4 engine. If I stack it...big deal $400 down the drain. The engine is useable in basically anything else I want to to try. I'm starting out in FWD class, then once confident will find a race/rally Evo 5 or 6. I was shit scared of stacking the VI.

My advice is start out with minimal outlay, then once you progress let your car choice/budget progress. The last thing you want is buying a 12k car to only stack it 3 meets in.

Starions are expensive for what they are. I was thinking about a Nissan TRX RWD the boxy ones and putting an SRDE/DET in it for my next car. Once again cheap, engine can fit in anything if I stack it. R31's are peanuts these days and leaves open for SR's, RB 20/25/26 or 30 block 25 head. Most of their diffs are interchangeable as is suspension and brakes.

 

[DOUGMO]

techsport have a 3.5 grade 5rs coming in that they want about 13k for i believe. 1-3 is good as is (wouldt worry about rs in an early) 4 onwards I would only go rs for track.

even a late rs stripped out with a cage and brembos will be a good start.
the only thiung the brembos need is good pads and lines. the 8rs I drove on the weekend just kept pulling up hard lap after lap in the searing heat @ winton.

there are a few mods that are not overly cheap that make a massive difference though like a front lsd.

as dave said less weight is the main goal.

 

[ENGINR]

Throw some decent rubber on the GSR, keep your head cool and just drive that. With the money you'd save on not buying a new car, you could do a tonne more track days and learn to drive confidently.

Sure there's a risk of stacking it on the track (as I found out!!) but I still reckon you got more chance of having an accident on the street.

Otherwise what's the point in having a car like yours if all it does is drags and street cruising?

 

[Entaran]

The best best best part of this thread?

People are realising there's more to racing than 400m strips.

 

[Velocity Racing]

Hey Dan,

good decision to think about a track only car :thumbsup:

as for my thourghts on what to get.. well i guess thats all about what you want to do and how fast you want to go..

I think the big question is what do you want to do in it?... circut sprints, or actual racing, like IPRA or super sedans, or tarmac rallys/sprints, or a bit of everything..?

one thing for certin, get the latest model you cant afford. Its all well and good to say that you should get a 1-3 with no electronic tricks, becaus you actually have to drive it... but that wont count for shit when someone is 5 secs a lap quicker in a later car. While the electronic tricks may help a bad driver to a certin point, a fast/good driver will still be faster, so dont forget that.

Rember its not just the brakes and electronic gagets that is improved post Evo 3, but also the suspension geometry is much improved, unsprung weight is improved with alloy parts, the whole chassis is improved. There is more to a fast lap/stage time than just power to weight.

It may be worth looking at established cars, as its hard (and costly) work to build a car first time out, and you will discover lots of things you wish you had done..

Here is some things to think about..
http://my105.com.au/classified.asp?id=13575 - looks very goodva very neat tarmac evo.. good fruit for the price..
http://my105.com.au/classified.asp?id=13646 - very awesome car..
http://my105.com.au/classified.asp?id=13735 - nice car and nice price, some what basic tho..


dont be scared off by ex gravel cars the undersides may look a bit average but they usually are well sorted and have all the fruit, its not a big job to change to tarmac spring rates, and the gravel valving often suits tarmac events well.. (and you can have a go at real motorsport once you get bored of driving in circles :w00t

The other thing to think about, is jumping into the car you want straight away, provided your sensible about it. Okay you could get something slower to start with to learn in, but you will end up spending thousands of dollars, only to have to go out and spend thousands to buy the car you could have had in the first place, only to have to learn to drive it all over again (or shunt it caus your over-confident)

three final things to think about...

1) dont be scared to shunt it, or you will.. everything can be fixed, and ALOT easier than in a road car
2) if you want to do this propperly, then you may have to be prepared to sell the GSR, as doing both motorsport and funding a nice streetcar isnt to much fun!
3) make sure you budged for equipment to go with, like good helmet, race suit, boots, gloves etc etc etc..

 

[DOUGMO]

solid advice there lewis. also if it was an option to get a pre built rally car and didnt want to rally there are plenty of goodies to sell on to recoop some cash too.

 

[p3akin]

id definitely go a cc evo.

handling is so much more responsive compared to the newer ones i reckon.

 

[Jonson]

^^ How? Have you driven a newer Evo? Thats one thing I couldn't get over with the VI. Throw it into a corner hard as, if it starts to slide just power through it. Everytime.