which oil/filter???

4GTuner

Help Support 4GTuner:

the Ralliart ones are around $100 each , but are magnetic , ( I do use it in my evo , but it only does 2000kms a year if that ), so my yearly service cost it usually $125 for oil and $100 for a filter

I prefer the Genuine MD356000 = $15.50 each inc GST

most of the rycos that have failed that Ive seen have been a poor fit , and a missing rubber seal

but as Rob said the flow rate could increase or decrease causing it to have a potential fail internally also, or creating blow by effect
 
Aghh. Fair enough. So if I see a ryco with no rubber seal, return it and get a proper one

But genuine for $15 isn't much to spend aye. Is the only benefit of ralliart the fact it's magnetic
 
I've often wondered why you would bother with a magnetic filter?
If your motor is far enough gone to be shedding steel bits then it's pretty much stuffed anyway.
 
I use genuine(use the ralliart ones on run in though) on the evo and K&N on my falcon.

I dont mind ryco, a little known fact, if your engine blows due to a ryco filter they will pay for the repairs on the engine.

Gianni, the ralliarts also have a much finer filter inside them as well as the magnet
 
Oh cool. I always wondered why rycos were cheap but u could get more expensive ones.

This is a little off topic but to do with filters. How do ryco fuel filters differ from a genuine or a reliant (if they make them)
 
I have always used Ryco filters and never had an issue.

I am also about to change to Valvoline VR1 10w40 in the VR4.. (Was to be 20w50 but the kind folk at the store ordered he wrong oil. But it should be fine still)
 
I have always used Ryco filters and never had an issue.

I am also about to change to Valvoline VR1 10w40 in the VR4.. (Was to be 20w50 but the kind folk at the store ordered he wrong oil. But it should be fine still)

i use VR1 10w40 in mine and runs great
 
Good article from Forced Performance, more for the turbo guys but good info, its more on the oil they can easily get in the US. Basically what you want is an oil with good phosphorous and zinc content.
That why i use the Penrite 10W50 at the moment, Says Zinc enhanced so I’m assuming the levels are high, id love to find out what they are compared to some of the oils on FP’s list. The Valvoline VR1 is good for this as well.


http://store.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/graphics/subaru_oil/Forced%20Performance%20Recommendations%20for%20Motor%20Oil.pdf
 
I use nulon full synthetic 10w40... noice oil. If was driving it hard, or trackign it, would opt for a 10w60 or 15w60.

Would stay away from 20w oil or higher unless is a worn motor, else will wear more on startup.
 
ive found that if you can get it to the point where the oil is spotless when you change it, it will be between 3-5k km before it gets dark.
 
Im gonna run a sandwich plate, but the oil filter will hit the dump pipe, does anyone know of a shorter filter i can use??

Edit - Anyone used the Z79A?? its apparently wider but shorter
 
No matter which oil filter I use, I always throw on a small high powered magnet from a computer hard drive on the end of it. Hell, even the Nimbus got a magnet on its oil filter too after its engine rebuild :lol:
Im also using a magnetic sump drain plug as well. The magnets have been used on both engines since their rebuilds and there's no harm in continuing to use them.
With a small turbo oil feed reducer in place for the garret, a little bit of precaution is better than none at all ;)
 
http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/alfa-147-156-and-gt/102403-16-important-oil-questions-and-answers.html

^ has some interesting info in it about oils if anybody wants to read it
 

Latest posts

Back
Top