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You'd have to redrill all three holes. FTOs and CE Lancers have them at the 1 and 5 o'clock with the third hole at roughly 8.30, where the Evo 1-3 has them 12,6 and 9 o'clock . Both being the drivers side tower. Heres a CC lancer with Tein FTO coils. Notice the CC series strut brace...

Green is rear washer motor. Grey is front washer motor and front intercooler sprayer. Orange inside goes to the A/C loom.

Blue plug goes on the left, brown in the middle of the cluster.

They just pull up. Wind the windows down and remove the screw at the rear of the door.

May be the issue, but i'm sure i've bled the brakes with the cap off before. Doesn't make sense. If the rod is moving, it should be pushing fluid or it'll just pull air into the system? Weird.

The second one looks to be the same as the Brake Master Cylinder where it sits into the two rubber grommets. Maybe it needs sealing completely. Does it have the squishy seal under the cap like the BMC reservoir?

K frame from my Evo II halfcut is definately 760mm.

I ordered these alloy ones last Wednesday. They arrived in Sydney on friday. Should have them tomorrow. http://www.rhdjapan.com/jdm-low/Pro-Shop-Iida-Aluminum-Shift-Bracket-Bushings-Lancer-Evolution-17772

^Yep. Mounted under the bonnet latch.

^^Exactly what i thought. If you turn the tensioner clockwise, wouldn't it hit the water pump before taking up the slack in the belt, hence when rotating the crank the quarter of a turn back, cause it to jump a few teeth?

Hang on. I followed this which tells you to turn the tensioner pulley anti-clockwise http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html Engine hasn't been run yet, but everything was torqued to spec. Should i change the way i did it?

Were these on a Yahoo Japan auction?