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I got the tools for the job, but has anyone else already changed their mounts at home? Do you need to jack the block (not from sump) somehow to get the front one out first and only 1 at a time of course?

Excellent question, I bet mine is the original one, cuz I bought my E33A with 135XXX k's, and now it's got, well.. u dun wanna kno! Anyone have results? Mine is rich I think, it should get some more grunt if it ran lean'er/

This is not a bad idea.. I should ring for quotes, but where do u reckon I start calling? Ie: type of shop? Thanks guys.

EDIT: For reference, I'm listing the 4 mounts that hold the engine and trans in place. HG/HH - NOT VR4 (dunno why, but diff part#) Front: MT8541 - $67.99 Rear: MT8286 - $50.99 LH: MT8796 - $141.99 RH: MT8797 - $104.99 These prices are retail at Autobarn. Jan 2007. Hey team, Where can we...

Hope you get it sussed out dude. Check my other thread, need your assistance..

hey mate, are you meaning the idle 1000rpm - 1500rpm issue? Mine used to do this years ago, then the issue went away? A dude with a VR4 I met a meeting in Brisbane told me it was the ECU. Check the caps? Mitsubishi told me at the time it was either the ECU or the ISC motor.. Hope this helps...

I hear ya bro. I have always wanted to upgrade the cams in my cars, and this is finally the chance. I have been documenting it, and will start a project thread. I have taken a couple of pics of everything so far.. will upload 2mora, too tired atm!

Awesome reading here fella's, I'm focusing on suspension on my car now. ..And since I've just got a deal on some shocks, I wanted to check out the whiteline swaybars, and bush upgrades.. What's next man? Should we replace both swaybars at once?

you're a fkn legend man! That was a good read. Proves you could play with the cam wheel's alone, which I might even do that first, cuz the cams have dropped in price now.. Then again, the plan is to do both at once.

LoL it's great to see some interest sparked. I dunno what it would be at the wheels, prolly closer to 130 - 140hp. But I reckon 200hp is a good goal.

I assume the breather also keeps the TB and valves the slightest bit lubricated. I'd like about 200hp out of it, from: cam's + ECU, intake pipe + TB + manifold + mods already fitted. Do you know anyone who has run the cam wheels on the stock cams?

Looks interesting, would love to hear it. Why vent the breather tho? What info have you got on cams that suit a n/a application? Are the crower/ HKS turbo ones with 264' duration or the 272' of any good to us? Still waiting on info from Ivan Tighe cam's..

Twin piston VR4 Calipers and DBA slotted rotors with braided lines would be a neat setup for a HG GSR?

Cheers man. See if you can find that intake. I don't wanna relocate that battery. Was thinking of cutting a neat patch out of the air box facing 45' up, and running a stainless pipe to the TB. There's a couple of chips for em, and they're dropping in price. Am also looking at TB upgrade...

Will these twin piston calipers fit an '89 HG GSR?

What have you actually done/got done. Was it worth relocating the battery? It looks a good setup, where's the MAS? still intact in the filter that far away?! What are you gonna do ECU wise? does mods and a Chip work, or need a custom chip or full control ECU?

Where is this intake now?

Who's have you heard? What did they use man? Pleeeeease :D

That's awesome dude. I still want a VR4.. But you did it, that's a big step. My exhaust didn't need to be 2.5", 2.25" is perfect. But 2.5" would be fine (max!) for Cam's or Turbo. Now I just want to play with the twin cam head, really see what can be done. The Crower ones are sounding the...

Cheer guys, good to see some interest. I'm no n00b to Galants, been driving them 10ys'? But has anyone done these cams? Replaced them with RPW HKS CROWER ? I know what I should expect, just need examples.. we all kno what it's like to do up a car with little money! So Far: JDM 4G63 - 147hp...