ECU Pin Swaps

4GTuner

Help Support 4GTuner:

Ok, wiring on the plug side is fine, havent pulled the dash apart to check the ECU pins (pretty sure theyre correct, as I didnt change stuff that didnt need changing (Baro pin stays the same when changing ECU's), but if I cant figure it out ill have to check. Pulled the MAF out and gave it a spray with that MAF cleaning stuff, still throwing the P0105 (Baro) and P0120 (TPS). Funnily enough, I just turned the keys to the ON position, started logging TPS, and Im getting nothing. Zero, at idle, and at WOT. The Baro output is just displaying "0.5" But I'm not sure if thats what its supposed to be, or not. I thought it should read about 100 (sea level pressure). Maybe the MAF is stuffed. Switching to a 399 would probably not be a bad thing, considering thats what the ECU wants to see anyway. And maybe the TPS is just dead (it is 20 years old), gave the plugs a spray with contact cleaner, no difference.
 
Ok, TPS is logging 0 regardless of whether its plugged in or not, DTC comes back after clearing. Must be dead.

Plugged in my GSR MAF, Baro reading says 0, and also throws an air temp sensor circuit error when its plugged in. With the 787 MAF Plugged in the air temp sensor error goes away, and the Barometer reads 0.5 (but still throws the Baro DTC).
 
leadfoot said:
sorry barro is pink not blue
On the GSR plug it's pin 1 (Green with a browny coloured stripe), on the newer plug that I got off a mid 2000's Lancer it's grey, which is what it says it should be on the Evo wiring diagram (still pin 1)
So unless I'm having a complete spastic moment, I'm pretty sure the plug side wiring is correct. Long shot, but maybe on the ECU plug the baro pin isn't contacting.
 
Tps should read close to 0 when closed throttle. Just should be smooth and progressive and linear as you move throttle. Did you find how to log the idle switch? You could probably back probe the ecu plug for this, it just switches to earth when at idle and opens when you just open throttle.
You have 4 wires, +ve, -ve, signal back to ecu, last one is idle switch
 
jack of all said:
Tps should read close to 0 when closed throttle. Just should be smooth and progressive and linear as you move throttle. Did you find how to log the idle switch? You could probably back probe the ecu plug for this, it just switches to earth when at idle and opens when you just open throttle.
You have 4 wires, +ve, -ve, signal back to ecu, last one is idle switch
TPS is reading 0 all the time. No matter what position the throttle is actually in.
I can log the idle switch with the MUTIII logging, I'll go try now

EDIT: Idle switch stays at "0" at all times, along with the TPS readout. Tried logging TPS in OBDII mode to see if there was any difference, still says 0 at all times.
 
I googled "testing Evo TPS" and the results that came up, along with the associated part numbers, are for three pin TPS's. Same look and same plug, but with only three pins. Ground, 5V, signal. Now that Im running the Evo 7 ECU would it be expecting to only get the one signal coming from the TPS? Not sure how the idle switch was handled on the later model ones.

Started the car up and did a log whilst idling. I get no reading from the TPS, the idle switch, or the Barometer, in Evoscan. They all read zero. However the ISC steps went from 75 down to 73 in the ~30 seconds the car was on. Im guessing 75 steps is the max, as it was a cold start.
 
3VOLUTIONIST said:
On the GSR plug it's pin 1 (Green with a browny coloured stripe), on the newer plug that I got off a mid 2000's Lancer it's grey, which is what it says it should be on the Evo wiring diagram (still pin 1)
So unless I'm having a complete spastic moment, I'm pretty sure the plug side wiring is correct. Long shot, but maybe on the ECU plug the baro pin isn't contacting.
thats weird cause on my gsr one that green looks brown but is actualy red stripe wire is +5v red is +12v black is earth black white stripe is afm signal, pink is barro red/black is air temp and blue is afm reset

green red = +5v
red = +12v
black = earth
black white = afm signal
blue = reset
pink = barro
 
3VOLUTIONIST said:
Took the TPS off the throttle body, set the key to ON, started a log, and manually moved the TPS around, still gives a zero reading. :/
tps sounds like it's dead

i've got a spare 3 pin might even have a 4 pin laying around if you wana find one cheap grab a whole throttle body of a magna or something.

in the 4 pins when tps resistance is below 1 throttle switch = on so set tps at .9 ohms
 
In a 3 pin you lise throttle closed switch tells the ecu if it should be using the idle speed controller because the throttle is closed or not
 
First pick from.right to left
Reset ecu pin 19
Air temp pin 52
Earth pin 72
+12v pin 25
Afm signal pin 70
Barro pin 65
+5v pin 61

Pins are evo 3/gsr
 
leadfoot said:
In a 3 pin you lise throttle closed switch tells the ecu if it should be using the idle speed controller because the throttle is closed or not
So the ECU has no idea when the car should be idling? Wouldnt that make the ISC useless as well then? Sounds like I need a 4 pin
 
3VOLUTIONIST said:
I've got a GM 3 port BCS, so all I need now is the GM MAP sensor, and I can run the onboard boost control.
I've printed off the wiring diagrams for the Evo VI and 1.8 Colt MAF sensors, going to check my wiring at the plug, then at the ECU.
Welded a bead on my last intercooler pipe, should solve the issue of them blowing off. :)
Still can't figure out the TPS problem though, its been adjusted and now reads 98.8 when your foots flat to the floor (apparently its common not to get exactly 100).
To read 100% press down the pedal and turn tps sensor on throttle body until ecu shows 100. When you let go of the pedal it should read around 11%-14%.
 
You need 4 pin tps. Gsr is 4 pin, evo 1-3 is 4 pin, rvr will be 4 pin. Only 1g had 3 pin, (and only 1g had the idle switch on the throttle stop on opposite side of tb)
The 1g testing is perfectly legit, it works for the 3pins and 4pins, the 4th pin is the idle switch. Without the switch, it will not idle nice, will not fuelcut on decel either.

Just quietly, do you have voltage to the tps? It sounds like you might not. (Not sure if its 5v or 12v)
Also, you can ohm meter test them from output to +ve, and just watch to see if its smooth and linear. But test back the other way also, from output to earth. They arent so much a variable resistor, more like a variable voltage divider. The results will be the inverse of output to +ve.
 
vr401 said:
To read 100% press down the pedal and turn tps sensor on throttle body until ecu shows 100. When you let go of the pedal it should read around 11%-14%.
Yeh, when I calibrated it a few weeks ago the most I could get was 98.8, couldnt get any more than that.
 
Back
Top