ECU Pin Swaps

4GTuner

Help Support 4GTuner:

jack of all said:
You need 4 pin tps. Gsr is 4 pin, evo 1-3 is 4 pin, rvr will be 4 pin. Only 1g had 3 pin, (and only 1g had the idle switch on the throttle stop on opposite side of tb)
The 1g testing is perfectly legit, it works for the 3pins and 4pins, the 4th pin is the idle switch. Without the switch, it will not idle nice, will not fuelcut on decel either.

Just quietly, do you have voltage to the tps? It sounds like you might not. (Not sure if its 5v or 12v)
Also, you can ohm meter test them from output to +ve, and just watch to see if its smooth and linear. But test back the other way also, from output to earth. They arent so much a variable resistor, more like a variable voltage divider. The results will be the inverse of output to +ve.
I did try and measure the voltage at the plug with the key in the on position, but dad's got the good multimeter in his work car. His crappy one fluctuates all over the place and I couldnt get it to work, so thats in the bin now. (would go from 0 to 10V without even touching anything with the probes). Ill test it properly when he gets home.
 
Without a tps, the isc will struggle, it knows its cold start point (75) but doesnt know what to do after that. In my topic on isc issues, there is a pic of a log showing the isc position. It is very busy, and pretty much follows tps. Yep, that busy, spins out to 100 at full throttle, shuts when off throttle, opens to 30 when revs drop so engine doesnt stall, back to 100, all over the shop. No tps, sluggish isc.

bet its heaps better with baro and tps sorted.
 
jack of all said:
Without a tps, the isc will struggle, it knows its cold start point (75) but doesnt know what to do after that. In my topic on isc issues, there is a pic of a log showing the isc position. It is very busy, and pretty much follows tps. Yep, that busy, spins out to 100 at full throttle, shuts when off throttle, opens to 30 when revs drop so engine doesnt stall, back to 100, all over the shop. No tps, sluggish isc.

bet its heaps better with baro and tps sorted.
Ok so if I do get a replacement it pretty much has to be a 4 pin. Pending whether this one is stuffed or not. Ill measure the plug voltage properly and go from there I guess.

As for the MAF, looks like I'm up for a 399 to replace my 787. Theres a bloke who has one locally, wants $150, overpriced? my 787 cost me $50 from over east haha

On a side note, the TPS and Baro sensors being dead explains why the idle is so damn horrid. It jumps around at about 750, nearly stalls itself, then jumps around again, poor ECU must be so confused
 
Its just a bit strange that both the idle switch and tps dont work, if it was bad/no earth, it would be just be a offset signal. And it was working ok before....odd.

have to ohm meter it.

Dads might have a stuffed battery. I have a dso scope. About m9bile phone sized oscilloscope. About $100 on ebay. Awesome bit of kit, but the multimeter gets more use. The signal generator is cool too, i can fake a cas signal to make the fuel pump fire up.
 
jack of all said:
Its just a bit strange that both the idle switch and tps dont work, if it was bad/no earth, it would be just be a offset signal. And it was working ok before....odd.

have to ohm meter it.

Dads might have a stuffed battery. I have a dso scope. About m9bile phone sized oscilloscope. About $100 on ebay. Awesome bit of kit, but the multimeter gets more use. The signal generator is cool too, i can fake a cas signal to make the fuel pump fire up.
Its on the bench at the moment, I'll use the good multimeter to Ohmmeter it when he gets home :)
And yes, odd that it's suddenly died. Unlucky coincidence?

He reckons it's just been dropped fifteen too many times..
 
jack of all said:
^Was just reading that. Will probably just get a 399 if I can get one without it costing me a kidney. I was looking at the different tables in the "Air" section in the Evo ROMS. When I copy the values over for the scaling and smoothing tables, it's fine. But once I copy the values in the "Air temperature compensation" and "Barometric Pressure Compensation" tables, my scaling and smoothign tables get all messed up and the values get changed. Yet in that EvoM thread he doesnt mention changing the Temp and baro tables.
 
I wouldnt have thought they would need changing the temp and baro. I think it would be ok with the 399 scaling for initial impressions.
offer is there, i can bring maf up on sat or sunday morning (if not raining) chuck it on and see what it says.
 
jack of all said:
I wouldnt have thought they would need changing the temp and baro. I think it would be ok with the 399 scaling for initial impressions.
offer is there, i can bring maf up on sat or sunday morning (if not raining) chuck it on and see what it says.
The Evo 6 and 7 ROMS have slightly different scaling and smoothing tables, but the Baro and temp tables are quite different. I'm not sure if they actually make a difference though, I just noticed they were different. And yeh sure if youre happy to do that :)
 
3VOLUTIONIST said:
^Was just reading that. Will probably just get a 399 if I can get one without it costing me a kidney. I was looking at the different tables in the "Air" section in the Evo ROMS. When I copy the values over for the scaling and smoothing tables, it's fine. But once I copy the values in the "Air temperature compensation" and "Barometric Pressure Compensation" tables, my scaling and smoothign tables get all messed up and the values get changed. Yet in that EvoM thread he doesnt mention changing the Temp and baro tables.
If you copy paste into one table and another changed value like your smoothing and scaling table than your XML for ecuflash is incorrect.
Upload your xml and bin and I'll have a look at it.
 
Theyre just the standard files that come with ECUFlash, there shouldnt be anything wrong with them (in theory)
 

Attachments

  • evo7base.xml
    52.8 KB
  • 98640014 2002 JDM Lancer Evo 7 MT.xml
    21.7 KB
So I used the good multimeter to measure the TPS, seems alright. The Idle switch works, and the TPS circuit's resistance changes as you move it around. Measured at the plug. 0.024V...
Pulled the ECU out, disconected it, had a look at the board, looked alright. Plugged it back in and measured the +5V pin. 5Volts. Back to the engine bay, measured the TPS, 5 volts...
Plugged the ECU back in, plugged the TPS back in, started the car, started a log. Baro reading 99.5, TPS measuring 12.2.
Pulled DTC's, only one I got was the "Generator FR circuit", which shows up now and again because he alternator is different on the Evo apparently.

Go figure...

My thinking is that the Evo 7 board was grounding on one of the mounting screws inside the GSR ECU case. So I'm fixing that properly now. Once it's all back together I'll go for a drive and see how it goes.
As a side note, the Idle switch was staying at zero in the evoscan logs. Could this be because the Evo ECU doesnt use the Idle switch?
 
Idk that it doesnt use the switch. But yea maybe.

generator fault is that the they use a variable voltage altenators, and there is no feedback of alt output to ecu. Not important for you, i thought it was able to be disabled, or bypassed....

hows it drive now?
 
jack of all said:
Idk that it doesnt use the switch. But yea maybe.

generator fault is that the they use a variable voltage altenators, and there is no feedback of alt output to ecu. Not important for you, i thought it was able to be disabled, or bypassed....

hows it drive now?
I think I can turn off the circuit by editing the ecu periphery, but it doesn't effect how the car drives, its had it since I changed the ECU, on and off.

Putting it back together now, will let you know :)
 
vr401 said:
Why don't you run tephra v5 bin 90550001?
I've got that on my laptop actually. Haven't flashed anything else to the ECU because I've been having issues. Looks like the car is finally ready to be tuned Now though :)
 
Back
Top