ECU Pin Swaps

4GTuner

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vr401 said:
It is just scaling. Just change it and than copy.
Ah ok, I'll have another look.

its definitely not happy at the moment, doesnt cruise smoothly, basically stalls itself if youre in the low load cells it seems, also completely leans out if you blip the throttle. Ill have another go at the smoothing/scaling tables.

The top table in the image is the Evo 6 MAF scaling, the bottom table is the Tephra V5 MAF scaling. Theyre pretty different

The second image has the MAF smoothing values.

EDIT: Got it! Top left of the table, EDIT, EDIT MAP DEFINITION, then the two scalings need to be changed to match the Evo 6 ROM ones :) successfully copied and pasted the values of the scaling. Think I should copy the smoothing? (Im not entirely sure what these do, I need to read the section in Merlins guide probably)
 

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vr401 said:
You have to run the idle for 15 min to let low fuel trim to adjust and than see what it says.
Should I disconnect the battery first and start fresh? Just let it idle for 15 mins and nothing else?
Ill do that tomorrow


Solution to the ECU grounding on the metal case by the way:

 
jack of all said:
Where is the bench flash procedure?
Im dying to look in my evo ecu
While I'm here. This is for you:

Pin 12 12V SW Supply
Pin 13 Ground
Pin 25 12V SW Supply
Pin 26 Ground
Pin 62 to K Line of OBD-II Interface to pin 7 on OBD2 connector
Pin 80 Backup Supply
Pin 82 Ignition SW Supply
Pin 92 Ground
OBD2
pin4+5 grounds
pin7 to pin 62 on ecu
pin 16 12v supply

pin 79 flash wire
 
3VOLUTIONIST said:
Should I disconnect the battery first and start fresh? Just let it idle for 15 mins and nothing else?
Ill do that tomorrow


Solution to the ECU grounding on the metal case by the way:

there is no need to ground it.

this is all wiring I did when I swap ecu in RVR

compare with yours and let me know if you did any extra.

[SIZE=medium]Evo 3 to evo 7 ecu conversion[/SIZE]

[SIZE=medium]40 – 11 waste gate solenoid[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]71 – 26 ground[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]33 – 3 fuel press solenoid[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]3+16 – 32 radiator fan[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]11 – 21 fan relay[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]79 – flash wire[/SIZE]

[SIZE=medium]OBD2[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]Obd 4+5 – ecu 13[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]Obd 7 – ecu 62[/SIZE]
[SIZE=medium]Obd 16 – ecu 12[/SIZE]
 
He didnt the baord was earthing out through the metal case soe he put it back in the plastic one and then mounted that to the metal case to fit in stock location
 
vr401 said:
there is no need to ground it.

this is all wiring I did when I swap ecu in RVR

compare with yours and let me know if you did any extra.

Evo 3 to evo 7 ecu conversion

40 – 11 waste gate solenoid
71 – 26 ground
33 – 3 fuel press solenoid
3+16 – 32 radiator fan
11 – 21 fan relay
79 – flash wire

OBD2
Obd 4+5 – ecu 13
Obd 7 – ecu 62
Obd 16 – ecu 12
Yeh that looks about right.
I didn't ground the case. The actual circuit board was grounding itself by touching the metal case (it wasn't in the plastic case). Must've been causing some circuits to play up.

Leadfoot's right on the money :)
 
evo-gsr said:
So why did you remove it from plastic case? I have mine in plastic case in stock location......
The plastic case is shorter than the metal one, so the clamp up top wont grab it, and doesnt have the bolts to hold it in poisition. So yours just sits there by itself? Held up by the loom?
I wouldnt want to put the weight on my wiring, incase a wire broke.
 
So ive copied all the "air" tables across from the evo 6 ROM to the Evo 7 one. (Scaling, smoothing, Temp and baro compensation, and MAF Size). And it's still leaning out and nearly stalling. If you try and hold it at a certain RPM, the AFR's slowly increase all the way up to the gauge peak (20) and then the car stutters and nearly dies.
 
3VOLUTIONIST said:
The plastic case is shorter than the metal one, so the clamp up top wont grab it, and doesnt have the bolts to hold it in poisition. So yours just sits there by itself? Held up by the loom?
I wouldnt want to put the weight on my wiring, incase a wire broke.
Umm no....I wouldnt leave it just sitting there.
Will try get a pic of what I did.
 
Ok. Its definitely caused by low load driving. Eg 60km/h in 4th gear. AFR's climb to the high teens, car begins to stall.
Tried turning off lean spool and the "timing knockdown on light acceleration and less than 3000rpm" ECU periphery option. Didn't change anything.

Enabling full time open loop solves the issue however.
Ideas?
 
3VOLUTIONIST said:
So ive copied all the "air" tables across from the evo 6 ROM to the Evo 7 one. (Scaling, smoothing, Temp and baro compensation, and MAF Size). And it's still leaning out and nearly stalling. If you try and hold it at a certain RPM, the AFR's slowly increase all the way up to the gauge peak (20) and then the car stutters and nearly dies.
Flash my rom back in without changes at all.

-Disconnect battery and reconnect in 20sec. or more
-Sart the car and log with evo scan as per pick below.

START TEST

Once you start getting readings for Oxygen feedback trim (STFT) keep an eye on it. if it goes above 5.0 or below -5.0 (like -6, -7 etc) then do this:

STEP 1:

  • if the number goes up to 10-15 go to injector latency and change cells under 14.06V & 16.41V like this.
  • if reading is in plus add 0.1 to both cells.......example cell is 0.552 you change to 0.652.......
  • If reading is in minus subtract 0.1 from both cells.......example cell is 0.552 you change to 0.452.......
The way you write in box is: click in box to highlight it blue, press = on keyboard and type the number...example 0.652 followed by enter. the number may slightly change in value but that is normal.

STEP 2

if the number is way above or below 0 reading then change injector scaling
  • if minus then increase injectors by 30cc
  • if plus then lower injectors by 30cc
The way you change injector scale in ecuflash is: click on box with injector scale value and use plus or minus on keyboard to change value to desired.

when you do any of above change and flash ecu, disconnect battery and go from START TEST again.

If you manage to get it idling good then'I'll write how to tune mid and high trims

if STFT is still showing big offset numbers after you increased or decreased injector scale by 30 or more, in my experience, you have vacuum leak somewhere.


vnvpPyL.png
 
3VOLUTIONIST said:
Ok. Its definitely caused by low load driving. Eg 60km/h in 4th gear. AFR's climb to the high teens, car begins to stall.
Tried turning off lean spool and the "timing knockdown on light acceleration and less than 3000rpm" ECU periphery option. Didn't change anything.

Enabling full time open loop solves the issue however.
Ideas?
Check for any vacuum leaks mate.
 
I'll put it in the garage and have another look for leaks.

Injectors looked fine, gave them a thorough clean before I installed them. No visible defects, nozzles looked fine.
 
3VOLUTIONIST said:
Ok. Its definitely caused by low load driving. Eg 60km/h in 4th gear. AFR's climb to the high teens, car begins to stall.
.............
Enabling full time open loop solves the issue however.
Ideas?
This leans to vacum leak too. Open loop doesn't use STFT input and therefore ecu doesn't compansate for it by adding or taking out the fuel. Look good for loosed hose or any cracks.

Cheers
 
vr401 said:
This leans to vacum leak too. Open loop doesn't use STFT input and therefore ecu doesn't compansate for it by adding or taking out the fuel. Look good for loosed hose or any cracks.

Cheers
Im thinking its something to do with my pre turbo intake pipe. Most of the other piping was replaced recently, so it should be good (cracks wise) ill run over all the hose clamps though.
 
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