Posibility of putting a AWD-RWD Split into a E-W Mitsu Gearbix

[Rumbuck]

Hey guys,

Now, my knowledge of how a Mitsu gearbox works is limited, now, I assume that in your front wheel drive, drive comes in, goes through gears, goes out to 2 CV Shfts to front wheels

Now, for the AWD, Drive comes in, goes through gears, and goes to two front shafts and a rear shaft that goes to the bum end of the car

Any chance of it being possible to put some form of locker or something in the box so that I can disengage the front end and divert all power to teh rear end? Or just stop the front wheels from driving?

-Rumbuck

 

[bazeng]

There are gear boxes that had the switch so you could go Awd//fwd.
You basically need to disengage the tail shaft and lock the centre diff.

 

[EVOCPE]

He wants to disable the front wheels so he can drive in RWD

Bit like the GTR Skyrines are setup

I dont think there are any, unless you want to go full custom GTR driveline h34r:

 

[bazeng]

Custom shafts that go into the gearbox, each mated to a clutch setup. Ask Jayrome to build one...

 

[brisvr4]

Welded centre diff, pull the front axles then drive it like that for about a week till you decide that it sucks as rwd
and put axles back in!

 

[4piknup]

5 'nuts in the muddy paddock will have old mc Donald waving his shotgun at you from the veranda, while you not going anywhere because you have blown your transfer case...

There isn't much around that is e/w engine and rear wheel drive, though you have a very large rear cargo area, why don't you mount the rvr engine and your gearbox in the tray...
There was a holden ute in the 80s called blobak with a blown 350 chebby and caddilac (fwd) drivetrain mounted in the tray of a wb Holden ute (later made into blobak2 when he mounted a stock 253 in the front (presumably for ballast) and coupled it to the 350.

I dreamed of a hemi 265 in the rear tray of a Suzuki not so squeezy ute

 

[Rumbuck]

I mean, an engine in teh tray would work...but I use my tray for Ute Stuff, I actuqally utilise my ute as a ute...so I carry loads, the dog, sleep in it...even turned it into an esky with the help of a $3 tarp from Bunnings

 

[4piknup]

But you would have nothing under the bonnet, so you could chuck the swag in there. Lol.

 

[Rumbuck]

Yeah, but I won't fit under the bonnet to sleep there

 

[EVO-00X]

Its near impossible to get your hands on a Libero rear solid axle diff to convert the Jumbuck to RWD/AWD. Ive had people in NZ looking now for a few months casing out NZMMC and wreckers for something decent.
Plus the costs of bringing something like that over here will be considerable because it'll be classed as a full pallet load.
Save the headache, sell the Jumbuck and get yourself a real RWD Aussie ute like a HSV Maloo/ R8 or something lol.
[I cant believe I just wrote that! lol]

 

[4piknup]

Someone here has a libero diff for sale, but they are too narrow, you either need custom +12ish offset rims or something else. as the rear track on the jummy is some 40mm wider than the front
I didn't go for hilux as they are drum brake. I went for bw78. In commodores and falcons. But the diff ratio to match the Gsr box is rare to get. But the evo ratio is heaps easier.

 

[Rumbuck]

Not sure, but I was looking at Pfitzner Performance Gearbox's (PPG) site, and I found this:

http://www.ppgearbox...sp?productid=29

The PPG rear wheel drive convertor is designed to convert normally 4wd configured vehicles to rear wheel drive for drift duties. Made of Billet Chromoly steel , this product has been reliably used to transmit 400 wheel hp to the ground on drifting EVO's.

Attached is also the full price list for the PPG range at the moment.

 

[bazeng]

If you need one of those, I have one (not PPG). Same product. Pm me if you want it

 

[EVO-00X]

That coupling is the same as a viscous coupling eliminator to convert awd to fwd. One BIG problem... when you lock up the centre diff with those you end up smashing the spider gears inside the centre diff if running fwd or rwd with some power - i definitely wouldnt consider it for drifting. Its best to weld the centre diff. Its cheaper and stronger without risking spider gear failure which can end up ruining your whole gearbox intrrnals when debris flies about.

 

[Rumbuck]

So you can't just remove the gears that drive the front end at all?

 

[4piknup]

put in a vce like you have linked or weld one together will do the same thing. remove front shafts retaining the outer to hold your wheel bearings in and the inners to stop the oil falling out. that will do you for rwd, but as stated, the first thing to blow will be the centre diff, if you weld that solid, next will be the transfer case to blow, as it not designed to take full torque of the engine.

 

[Rumbuck]

Any way of reinforcing the transfer case to avoid it blowing? Stonger gearing inside??

 

[4piknup]

there is some chrome moly stuff available for transfers. then you will need custom tailshaft as i think they larger on the output splines.
sure you can do it, but it will be expensive...
maybe $8k
1500 for gearbox and mods, 1000 for transfer mods, 1200 for tailshaft, 2500 for rear diff and mods to fit it, 300 for gsr fuel tank, that leaves 1500 for unforseens- brakes, handbrake, vce, fitting, exhaust mods, etc.
and i only rough estimating at these prices, but they probably in the ballpark (other guys will verify how close they are). gets expensive when you buying it all at once and cant do much yourself...

a automatic would be softer on the driveline, cheaper to buy a datto/rotary ute.

 

[Rockabilly]

a automatic would be softer on the driveline

No lol

 

[Rumbuck]

<p>[quote name=&#39;jack of all&#39; timestamp=&#39;1340535315&#39; post=&#39;258100&#39;]a automatic would be softer on the driveline, cheaper to buy a datto/rotary ute. [/quote]</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Tried that when I blew up the 5 speed Jummy box, switched it back into a Manual ASAP, damn thing would chase gears like a bitch when she was loaded.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>[quote name=&#39;jack of all&#39; timestamp=&#39;1340535315&#39; post=&#39;258100&#39;] 300 for gsr fuel tank [/quote]</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Beauty of a B&#39;n&#39;S Ute, wasn&#39;t really gonna go with something stock, maybe a flat Kenworth or Western Star tank behind the rear axle, a few other ways I could go with that one....</p>
<p> </p>
<p>[quote name=&#39;jack of all&#39; timestamp=&#39;1340535315&#39; post=&#39;258100&#39;]brakes, handbrake, vce, fitting, exhaust mods, etc[/quote]</p>
<ul>
<li>Brakes, yeah, but I would like to Disc the back anyway, the drums are just not grat at pulling up 550+kg of load, I had 780 on there one time and she pulled up horrible...</li>
<li>Handbrake, yeah but that should come with a disc conversion kit, or I could go a tailshaft Landy Brake setup and modify to fit...</li>
<li>Exhaust mods, when in doubt, grab some steampipe and a welder, good to go!!! My exhaust is pretty much fine anyway, she gets to the rear of the cab, slight left kink, and straight up, nothing in the way of exhaust at the rear end of the car.</li>
</ul>