RVR HSG Head Rebuild - Now vibrating violently/no power

4GTuner

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First of all, this little 4G6 idiosyncrasy gets a lot of "good" mechanics and the more experienced mechanic, the more likely he is to rely on his "vast experience" and NOT look it up in the book!

But... If they got this wrong, there are chances they screwed up other things...

Having said that, balance shafts will not have effect on power production. Something else must be wrong :(

Wost case snenareo: they also bent some valves and you are missing a cylinder. But let's hope it is just valve timing, off by a few teeth...
 
leon r said:
First of all, this little 4G6 idiosyncrasy gets a lot of "good" mechanics and the more experienced mechanic, the more likely he is to rely on his "vast experience" and NOT look it up in the book!

But... If they got this wrong, there are chances they screwed up other things...

Having said that, balance shafts will not have effect on power production. Something else must be wrong :(

Wost case snenareo: they also bent some valves and you are missing a cylinder. But let's hope it is just valve timing, off by a few teeth...
Click to expand...
I really hope its just timing man, I think it may have also been a bit of me not wanting to push the engine as it was clearly struggling already!
So I will go in and tell them, what is the suspected problem exactly? The balance shaft timing is off because the sprocket wasn't aligned correctly?
 
No, the balance shaft mark is probably correct, BUT that does NOT mean that BS is in the correct position! You had 50/50 shot of it being right, obviously you lost that gamble...

Have them check the compression before they do anything else (as BS will not affect compression).

Then tell to: "GET THE MANUAL"! They obviously didn't use it!

Opportunities to screw up during installing the head:

- bend the valves by mishandling the head. Just putting it down on a flat, hard surface wih cams in place will bent two intake valves.
- bend the valves by moving the pistons at the wrong time
- mess up on the timing marks
- mess up setting belt tension

Any of those can result in bent valves. And if they are already bent, there is no reason to reset the balance shaft. That is why compression test is your next step.
 
Hahahha cheers mate, took the car back this morning the guys were really good about it, going to have a look at the timing first and go from there.

Cheers, Mike
 
Lol thanks guys!! Ok so I got it back, they said they redid the timing to be one tooth retarded as opposed to how they set it originally which was one tooth advanced. The car is still vibrating terribly and will not rev past 3500rpm. So I slinked her all the way home and thought **** it I will check myself see whats going on. Within about 2 minutes of looking I see a vacuum line coming off the fuel rail is just flapping around not attached to anything....FFS.... so i go get a hose clamp and tighten it up to its pipe...take it for a drive and wouldn't you ****** know it, I can now boost again and rev over 3500rpm... however my car is still vibrating horribly on idle. I park her up and have a look around...low and behold the nuts that bolt onto the engine mount near the belts are only on JUST threaded onto the bolt...nowhere near the mount itself, they would have been about 5 threads on, not even enough to sit flush with the top of the nuts, plus now I can see the engine mount is badly perished and falling apart....so for starters they didn't tell me the mount was completely ****** AND they didn't even attempt to tighten the nuts up at all.

SOOOO.....I tighten the nuts up and take it for a spin....its 100 times better then it was, but i think they have righteously ****** whatever was left of the engine mount when they pulled it out and put it back in because its still vibrates a fair bit more then it used to. Also I'm pretty sure the plugs i bought the car doesnt like becuase its not quite running perfectly. I'll change the plugs and leads and see how we go.

Now only question is what engine mounts are you guys running? I figure there is no point only changing one even though the other ones look perfectly fine I may as well change them all at the same time.

Cheers, Mike!
 
leon r said:
Opportunities to screw up during installing the head:

- bend the valves by mishandling the head. Just putting it down on a flat, hard surface wih cams in place will bent two intake valves.
- bend the valves by moving the pistons at the wrong time
- mess up on the timing marks
- mess up setting belt tension
Click to expand...
As well as swearing at it, thinking about heads on other cars, not buying it flowers. They are very sensitive :lol: :p
 
Mike, check out the Sikaflex 255 fix for the mount, that's what I'll be doing to mine, they are expensive bloody things. Do a google search for the fix and you'll see what I mean, there a lot of guys on some other forums that do it

and from what I've read it seems like it stiffens them up a bit.

I always have a go at stuff like this, what's the worst that can happen, it's fubar anyway :(

Edit: Make note of the mechanics in case any other members accidently go there, gotta watch each others backs, but not in that way 'cos that's fruity :blink: :p
 
This bunch of misfits you took the car too sound like a bunch of fuckwits.
As for the mounts Prothane are the best. Cheap as and last forever. Search my content for a link to their stuff. I have them in my car best thing I ever did.
 
take it into a windscreen shop and get them to fill it up (mount) with their sika, won't cost much, takes an hour to go off. Sounds like an idiot went over your car mate, sorry to hear it.
 
There is a part number 13-1902 and thats engine mounts all 4? Would that be it?
However mine is auto and this say man trans only?

Mitsubishi Cars
MOTOR & TRANSMISSION MOUNTS & INSERTS
90-94 Eclipse, Laser, Talon (w/Man. Trans. Only): AWD, FWD, Turbo, Non-Turbo- All 4 Mounts Kit 13-1902
 
[SIZE=medium]Guys, I highly recommend staying away from urethane mounts! They are great for race cars, but too still for most “normal people”. Even my 11 second Summit is using Window Weld filled motor mounts! [/SIZE]

[SIZE=medium]The only problem with filling in badly worn motor mounts, is that you might “freeze them” in the wrong position. So try to use good judgment if your mount is beyond repair. Also, do not use just any RTV silicone, we use 3M Window Weld because it is much stiffer when it cured than most gasket making/sealing silicones. [/SIZE]
 
Why Leon? Whats wrong with urethane mounts? Best thing I ever did on my car. And they wont **** out like the ****** rubber ones do.
Please explain your logic, as I disagree.
 

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