RVR HSG Head Rebuild - Now vibrating violently/no power

[Django]

backing plate behind crank pulley rubbing on the belt? Check for damage to the timing belt with upper timing case cover off. Check tensions on accessory belts and make sure nothing is too tight. Nothing I've heard before though...

 

[bazeng]

I'm not a fan of the solid mounts either. Too harsh for a daily driver.

Ok for a race car.

As for vibrations, what was the problem?

 

[Benzo4gT]

My goodness, these guys that played with your car are off the rails, fortunately if it's the backing plate it's a relatively easy fix. You might have to show them some youtube clips about the correct way to mount the plate.

The plate has a dome in it, the dome has to face out so the plate ends up sitting flush with the belt gear.

Check this vid out at around the 3 minute mark

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7VIubwSxytk

 

[Hyper_Mike]

The vibrations were being caused by the poor engine being all messed up because the ECU hadnt been reset after they did the rebuild.

 

[Hyper_Mike]

Sooo I took it down to my good mechanic (where I should have taken it first time but he was about $700 more) and he seems to think its a leak coming from the intake manifold, the noise is only there on idle and deceleration, I wouldnt be surprised if something is wrong with the seal.

 

[Benzo4gT]

Well, that's kind of good news, at least if it's a seal it will be less complicated than pulling the whole front of the engine apart again, still sucks arse though

 

[brisvr4]

Easy to test, spray some start ya bastard around the intake manifold whilst idling and see if the idle changes.

 

[Hyper_Mike]

Easy to test, spray some start ya bastard around the intake manifold whilst idling and see if the idle changes.

Yea mate, i tested it today, its a leak on the intake manifold or injector seal, couldn't narrow it down as i kept spraying it kind of on both parts. Taking it in Monday to my good mechanics as im still not 100% happy with the car (apart form the noise that is haha)

 

[Hyper_Mike]

I have FINALLY got my car running smoothly again. I have taken it to my performance mechanic (4WD and Performance Centre Nerang) who has fixed everything and I got my car back today. Every injector seal was ****** and pissing out air, something else they didn't replace, ALSO the rail was badly bowed as they used the wrong spacers. No more hissing noise and the car runs smoothly again, lots more pick up. There is still a slight idle issue however if it continues I was told to bring it back in a few days. The car is way quicker and makes boost faster.

 

[4piknup]

Yay.

 

[evo-gsr]

Good ****!

 

[Benzo4gT]

Fantastic! I'm sure this thread will be made into a movie one day, or a series! It could be called "Walking Head". At least this way the first lot of mechanics ****** work could be explained by them being zombies

 

[Hyper_Mike]

Bahahaha I think the zombies may have done a better job though!

 

[evo-gsr]

Most likely would have...the original guys were ******.

 

[4piknup]

You should build a boost leak tester (or buy ebay one). Then you can fix/find leaks yourself. I was blown away by the places air leaks from. Mine was pissing out from everywhere (except injector seals and manifold gasket)
Even the biss screw leaked boost.

 

[Hyper_Mike]

Man im pretty sure I have boost leaking EVERYWHERE! My pipe going to my BOV is all flaked and perished, my main intake pipe has seen better days as well. I tried finding these parts however no where has them and the bov pipe is a weird shape so i cant even just hack up a radiator pipe or something

 

[penngwyne]

If you want Mitsi part numbers I recommend this from the forums
If you are computer literate it's not too hard to get it going.
Some part numbers have been superseded but by reference to your local Mitsi dealer a newer part number can be supplied


http://www.4gtuner.com/topic/10575-mitsubishi-aftersales-support-application-caps-replacement/

OR check out the dbase on Amayama trading, but this will be easier if you already have the part number

 

[penngwyne]

Is the rattle still there?

I have had 2 causes of rattle noises, (no make that 3)

First one I had the B belt tensioner pulley on back to front causing the B belt to touch the crank angle sensing plate. (should have looked close at the pictures the flange goes to the front)
This was very noisy and immediately noticable by passers by and mechanics,

Second one rattle at idle which smoothed out around 4000 rpm then rattled like buggery as it was coming down again, Hydraulic tensioner was on the way out. (Who's a lucky boy then)
This one gradually got louder and in the end it was sounding a bit like a diesel

Last one was after changing the tensioner the tension pulley touched the timing cover.(I'm hoping it's because the AM pulley is wider than the OEM one which I have on order)

 

[Hyper_Mike]

The car is actually running really well now, just a couple of niggling issues to resolve.

 

[vr401]

Is the rattle still there?

I have had 2 causes of rattle noises, (no make that 3)

First one I had the B belt tensioner pulley on back to front causing the B belt to touch the crank angle sensing plate. (should have looked close at the pictures the flange goes to the front)
This was very noisy and immediately noticable by passers by and mechanics,

Second one rattle at idle which smoothed out around 4000 rpm then rattled like buggery as it was coming down again, Hydraulic tensioner was on the way out. (Who's a lucky boy then)
This one gradually got louder and in the end it was sounding a bit like a diesel

Last one was after changing the tensioner the tension pulley touched the timing cover.(I'm hoping it's because the AM pulley is wider than the OEM one which I have on order)

There is two types of tension pulleys. One is smaller and fits rvr and late evos, the bigger one is what I got and made a nice cut on plastic cover and then I heated it up and pushed it out to accommodate bigger pulley.

ps: when I say bigger I mean same diameter but wider.