will this set up run a 20g set up safely?

[milkandoj]

ok what about opinions from people running simular set ups?
Is the fuel issue toitally ridiculous? Or acheivable?

 

[DOUGMO]

you could use a chip like dres and clean it up in top end with a safc


doable

 

[milkandoj]

Look, if i need to be shot down in flames do so.
Im asking for all you opinions and experiances.

ok maybe safc'c not the way to go as i need understand what you actually do to the combustion process when you change the afr's and ignition using a safc, rather than just look at simply ltuning the ratios

 

[iluszn]

if your going to the trouble of SAFC and chipped ECU.. Go buy a DSM Link Lots of reading, research and talking to the creators. This looks like a good thing and will give you more tunability than an SAFC.. They sell for USD$545 + shipping. You just tell them your setup injectors, afm, etc etc. They will set the chip up for you and send it all.

Think of it as a S-AFC but pumped full of steroids.

http://www.dsmlink.com/

they will have a V2 ESMLink in the next couple of months. But that will sell for around USD$645. But with more features.

 

[brisvr4]

Personally I would not put the 510's in.
I would go larger with a 20g because once you get used to 18psi you WILL want more

 

[CLuTZ]

Personally I would not put the 510's in.
I would go larger with a 20g because once you get used to 18psi you WILL want more

Agreed. 560's for a start, then maybe an adj FPR if you need even more.




dre

 

[DOUGMO]

560s will support the power you are after

 

[milkandoj]

Maybe i should stick with power at the wheels not crank.

From what ever read a 16g on 20psi will give around 170kw at all 4's without cams, alot closer to 200kw with cams and cam gears.

Is there a point using a 20g in hope ill get closer to200kw at all 4 with less supporting mods. or no point as ill need cams to unlock the potential of the 20g and its a waste of time as ill just end up with a bit more lag.

 

[CLuTZ]

That sounds about right- with the right tuning- I cant see why you cant make 220-230kw atw on 20+ psi

That dyno graph above was done on a FWD with a 16g by the way- expect some power loss through your drivetrain

 

[GSRSOL]

I have 205kw at all 4 on 20psi on a stock motor and big16g ..... no cams or gears (yet :twisted: )

and that was on a dyno that is notoriously under-reading up to 20kw too.

 

[rob323]

I don't think I saw it in your list, but you will need a larger fuel pump. I don't know at what power the standard fuel lines also become an issue.

 

[Cranked]

Sorry to hi-jack the thread, but anyone else used this DSM link? Sounds interesting and would like to get into it for a bit of learning.

Sean

 

[NZVR4]

IM after advice if my standard motor will hold up to a 20G on 18-20psi.

want to keep my motor stock internally and not damage it.
Will my chip and possibly a safc and the rest of the set up run it safely.

At the moment she's pretty stock;
- 3" tbe
- adjustable bov

I have sitting in my room ready to go in;
-evo3 510 injectors
-055 afm
-single board ecu with a chip tuned for the above

I can see myself needing;
-new intercooler piping
-data loggin set up
-evo (or copy) exhaust manifold
- boost contro
-maybe a safc to get my mixtures better.
-intake set up
-battery in the boot
-new clutch

Dont really want to go cams (yet) as want it not to chew too much fuel when lazily putting around. or is this a stupid concept lol

I want as close to 400hp AT THE CRANK as i can safely get using this set up and not damage my motor, running 18-20psi. I do understand that the 20g will spool later, just seems alot of people are upgrading from 16g's.
and im inder the understanding that a 20g will offer more flow at these boost levels than a 16G.
These are my resons for optimg for a 20g over a 16g.
Opinions?

I pretty much had the same setup as this and using 550cc rx7 injectors which were flow tested at 580 i made 400@crank on 20psi using safc,fuel economy was no worse off than the standard setup when off boost but yeh goes higher when boosting,my set up with a 20g boosted at the same rpm so dont worry about it boosting later as long as it has a decent tune the drivability will be good

on bigger injectors i made 450@crank still using 20g and standard internals so as said earlier as long as you have a good healthy engine and has a good tune your engine will take it

 

[iluszn]

one of the guys on here runs the DSMLink.. Ill be investing in one when the next gen is out.

 

[milkandoj]

ok heres a new angle.
Based on what id think id need and what i costs, tryed not to under price anything to be safe.
Could be intersting for hp gains compared to dallars spent.
3 (4) setups, optimise what i got, go the 16g and keep std cooler pipes, go the 20g.

#1: So far for 510's, 055 afm, chipped computer.
spent
$520

....continue with first round modds
Battery relocated to boot,
air box and intake,
manual boost controller,
new friction plate in existing clutch
data logg setup
$900 on top of $520 spent

$1420



#2: Get a 16g.
keep current cooler piping(j-spec) and cooler
16g turbo
possibly need to replace exhaust manifold with evo one,
manual boost conroller,
Fuel Pressure regulator
dump pipe
$1000 on top of stage one modds.
so 1000 + 1420 =

$ 2420



#3B cheap ass 16g option
modify standard air box to take the 055 afm or use magna air box
16G turbo
dump pipe
maual boost control
=$850 on top of stage one modds
850+1420

=$2270




#3 Go the 20g :twisted:
20g turbo
Intercooler piping and resize piping on end tanks of J-psec i-cooler
Upgrade manifold to evo one or copy
Electronic boost control
Fuel pressure regulator
keep the 510 injectors, max 18 pound boost
clutch friction plate, possibly whole new set up
$2350 + stage 1 ($1320)


=$3670

possibly more for whole new clutch setup rather than rebuild


On top of the 20g set up, for boost over 18psi
560 injectors
DSM link

 

[EVO85]

ok what about opinions from people running simular set ups?
Is the fuel issue toitally ridiculous? Or acheivable?

Absolutely achievable. Here's the dyno chart of my last Galant with a chipped ECU:

the only reason why it didnt make more power after 5250rpm, was because the chip was far too rich. If you had a similar chip, and then could lean it out abit up high- you would see a far more linear curve: more power, for longer.

That was at the front wheels right? If that's the case, it's a little misleading...

 

[EVO85]

#3 Go the 20g :twisted:
20g turbo
Intercooler piping and resize piping on end tanks of J-psec i-cooler
Upgrade manifold to evo one or copy
Electronic boost control
Fuel pressure regulator
keep the 510 injectors, max 18 pound boost
clutch friction plate, possibly whole new set up
$2350 + stage 1 ($1320)


=$3670

+1

It sounds like you have done your homework. Really, the money we are talking about here is 'rats and mice'. I don't beleive the lag difference between the 16g and the 20g is worth worrying about. It's really academic.

I would say that you would be limited to ~ 350hp with the above quoted mods. Mate, I have done everything twice, if not three times in search of the power to fulfill my addiction for speed and because I was too conservative the first and second time round, I got used to the power...rapidly. I beleive that, in this case, bigger the better...it leaves you with a greater scope for future development and you won't be left limp wristed...like I was...

 

[CLuTZ]

That was at the front wheels right? If that's the case, it's a little misleading...

Why is that..........

 

[rob323]

Don't forget the Fuel pump.

 

[GVR40]

you haven't mentioned anywhere a fuel pump - $110-150

also what condition is the motor in, have you done a compression test and the like to see how it is internally, last thing you want is to put a bigger turbo on turn up the boost and blow something up...