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Converted my vr4's front hubs to 5-stud the other day, it really is simple if you have access to a press. I used some scrap steel to make a "special tool" to support the hub It took longer to remove the brake backing plates than it took to do the entire rest of the process - including making...

that's how I do it, though I rest my beer on the strut tower amongst all the loose bolts/spare tools/removed parts/etc.:lol:

1) Potential for a small stone/etc to get thrown up into the timing belt and cause it to fail. Also, it's got the scale for setting the ignition timing onit. 2)

I had this prob with my alternator tensioner also, possibly the bracket is slightly bent, it's quite flimsy. I cable tied the long bolt to the bracket and haven't had a problem with it since.

fto hubs for the front rvr hubs for front and rear easy.

could be 3.909 diff with a vr4 or cd5a gearset that originally had a 3.545 ratio.. I have the factory brochures saved on my comp and have the gear ratio's listed - quality is poor, but you can clearly see there's only one set of ratio's listed for both GSR and RS (evo3's in this case). Edit...

for evo 1-3, gsr and rs gearboxes are the same. JDM vr4 and vr4 rs gearboxes are also the same (vr4 evo and vr4 evo rs are also the same). evo4-up had different ratios for gsr and rs.

no offence taken. Interesting point of view, I've had many fwd's and just one rwd for about 6 months. But the vast majority of my driving experience has been in the vr4, which really requires a different driving style to either fwd or rwd to exploit it's strengths and avoid its weaknesses.

I've got two factory mitsubishi 3 bolt mechanical lsd's from early vr4 RS's. As baz said you can fit an evo lsd centre into the vr4 housing with the vr4 3.545 gears. afaik there is no way to have 4ws AND a mech lsd. why do you want to keep the 4ws? I found it makes the car slightly nervous in...

The basic concept behind balance shafts has existed since 1904, when it was invented and patented by British engineer Frederick Lanchester. Mitsubishi Motors pioneered the design in the modern era with its "Silent Shaft" Astron engines in 1975, with balance shafts located low on the side of the...

judging by the dimensions it looks like one is to suit Evo twin pot calipers and the other to suit lancer gsr single pot calipers. p.s. you want carbotech pads ;)

chipping it (or getting an evo ecu) will be far cheaper than rebuilding it after you blow it up. a/f gauges that read from the original narrow band O sensor aren't worth their weight in paperclips.

call them rear axles - only the inner cv's that plug into the diff need changing.

Common myth: Mitsi fitted balance shafts instead of balancing the crank/etc... They are actually fitted to counter the inherent vibrations from an inline four - making the engine 'smoother', that is all. Whether you decide to keep the balance shafts or not, you need to have the bottom end...

From the factory the mitsi plate lsd's don't have any preload - so you don't have to put up wit hall that binding/etc in carparks. also, evo1 rs and vr4 rs (evo1 gsr has viscous) have a 1 way plate diff - they don't lock under decel. evo2 and 3 (gsr and rs) have a 1.5 way plate diff - there's...

when you say brake fade, do you mean the pedal goes soft and mushy, or the pedal is still firm but no stopping is happening? If the pedal goes soft, that's caused by water in the brake fluid boiling (brake fluid is hygroscopic, it absorbs moisture, the older it is the less use it's going to be)...

lol perhaps not, but there's more right with a mech lsd:thumbsup:

to quote myself:

should start and run fine after only 4 months. wouldn't hurt to crank it over with the ignitor un-plugged first tho

the cas needs to match the ecu your using. if you run the vr4 ecu, you'll blow it up, therefore you need to use the evo cas and wire in some different plugs so you can use an evo ecu.