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mine isnt too bad to drive with, (qm with tilton plates) ive found the tilton plates more driveable than the qm ones.

i wrote this as a simple way of doing it. read down the post on how i get the end on the hose. http://msport.co.nz/viewtopic.php?t=6895

check for liquid in it, on my last motor the catch can would always have smoke type/steam coming out of it, it was moisture in it heating and turning to steam. its just a thought,

gsr. i never refer to mine as a evo because its simply not a evo.

what a ugly cat, and taking a picture of such a ugly cat while half naked is just wrong. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

hes attention seeking is annoying, if it were up to me id hit the ban button.

its just easier to put eagles in and not have the worry in the future.

i dont have pics of the speakers mounted in the doors as my cars at the work shop. these pics are of the speaker mounted in the wood cut out and one of the cut out by it self. also i cut the criss cross framing out of the speaker cover on the door just to help with viabration and to let a little...

i had 6's in my gsrs doors. all i did was remove the factory speaker, remove the plastic speaker shield/holder. cut a piece of 6mm custom wood the same size as the speaker holder and cut the hole for the speaker, screw it to the custom wood and the wood to the factory screw holes on the sheet...

is there any room on the housing to have a plug welded onto it and have it tapped out? what about one of those inline sensor plugs that go on the radiator hose? not exactly the best option..... remove the factory sensor and just use the defi gauge, mine worked fine that way for years. :?

im scared of the cordia, after all i only have 5 times the power it has.... just not enough power damn it, damn it to hell.

bigger turbine wheel, compressor wheel, exhaust and compressor housing the 14b, 16g referes to the comp wheel

youre a total fecking idiot, i read the crap you post and you just have no fecking idea.

yeah all oem parts no aftermarket parts, just as if it were off the factory floor.

also wheel/tyre size and power determins launch rpm. my car if i launch it how i used to at 7+ just spins up, it spins up my 19's easily now with 7k or more. personally im a big fan of launch control systems as you cant really messup a launch.

it just makes it more expensive

yes they do bolt on, but you will lose the sway bar mount as the e2/3 sway bar mounts on the shock. im not 100% sure someone will confirm that the wider track is partly to do with the arms as well? i had the cast arms on my car but took them off due to the extra weight of them over the gsr arms...

a few years ago i tried to adjust some teins that were stiff to move and i ended up snapping one of the adjuster rings, lots of crc and patience.

factory gsr weight minus sound deadening and rear seats still has full exhaust etc. it prob weighs more now with the cage in it. 418kw atw currently. ran 10's with 385kw car has run 129mph hopefully it should run in the high 130's when sorted. Chris

im using b9's with the gap they come with, no problems with them. running upwards of 2bar with no miss. stock coils and stock replacement leads.