Gsr gearbox reconditioning -help

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akuma

Member
Joined
Nov 1, 2006
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46
Location
melbourne
hi,
Bought a gsr from sydney on sunday, drove it back to melb with 50kms left, gear 5 slipped into neutrual.
Couldnt get it into gear for a while, then it decided to work.

Took it to my home mech, he said gearbox needs recon, it still drives but makes a weird whirling noise, and im not mechanically minded. I know how to use basic tools and do a minor service but thats about it

If anyone could rexommend me to a place were they recondition gearboxes or know how to do it themselves, itll help out!

Thanks
 
Probably the loose nut (common) on the 5th gear.

Open up the first cover, inspect. It happens to many....
 
Baz ; uhhh no idea lol, id have to search pics up to sus that out.

Khu ; yeah, ill do that once i get to mech and try to drive it back home if i could.
 
Had a similar issue with my box a while back....It ended up being something to do with the selector fork getting jammed so I couldn't get reverse or 5th gear...
Changing the oil will most likely do sweet Fuck all...Wouldn't waste my time or money with that suggestion.
Baz's idea would be my first port of call..if not...looks like your up for a rebuild / reco
 
Before removal could save you some time and effort by emptying the oil and remove the rear cover of the gearbox and catch the reverse synchro as it drops. Then try shifting into 5th and reverse to see if the 5th and reverse hub and slider are operating properly. Could just be dodgey or broken synchro keys or springs in the 5th/reverse hub setup.

Dont do anything to the sandwich plate on the next part of the casing. Its sealed into position but its just floating there with no bolts holding it on. If you knock it the seal will break and you'll end up with oil leaks that can only be fixed by a teardown of the entire rear end to redo it properly. ie. just remove the end cover, do not touch the rest of the case unless you are going to plan a teardown.

I find it hard to believe that the rear end nut is loose unless it was never staked in properly from a previous rebuild. I mean, thats why the notches are there in the first place - to keep it from ever coming loose.

With the end case off, but pushing the sandwich plate in, give the whole 5th/reverse shaft a bit of a shake with your hand (not too hard) to see if there is any sideways movement, which it shouldnt have. Then pull up the input shaft and see if it has any freeplay going in and out. It should have no freeplay in any direction or at the most just a slight click. Do the same with the intermediate shaft that has the 5th subgear on it (the part in the middle with the other big end nut on it).

There are also three other areas to check on the casing that could effect 5th and reverse selection:
1. Remove the reverse switch from the top of the gearbox then try shifting gear to see if it shifts better. Make sure you're shifted in reverse gear when you reinsert the reverse switch otherwise you'll damage the tip.
2. There is a big flat gold bolt to the right of the reverse switch on the top of the gearbox. That has a spring loaded ball bearing in it that helps put pressure on the 5th/Reverse selector fork and assists locking the gears into position. Remove it and see if the ball bearing presses in and out of the end of the bolt properly and that the end of it isnt crimped or not functioning properly.
3. Last of all on the side of the gearbox there are 3 x 12mm bolts in the 10-11 o'clock position to the oil fill bolt. The top bolt is for the 5th/Reverse shift rail. Remove it and inside will be a spring and a ballbearing. Check that the spring isnt broken or supressed too short.

see pics for info.
 

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  • W5M33 End Case.jpg
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previous owner fitted an evo3 gear box into the gsr, the diffs didnt line up. mechanic was suprised that i made it all the way from sydney.
damage done was $4000.
:(
 
Apart from the gearbox number, you will need to count the roatation of the wheels compared to the intermediate shaft i presume
 
I seriously dont believe you would have made it from Sydney to Victoria (you dont have your location in your profile) with a mix-matched combo at prolonged highway speeds.
The viscous coupling would have died followed by lockup of the front and or rear diff.
How did the mechanic determine that it is an E3 box? the number on the bellhousing?
Because that doesnt necessarily mean the front diff ratio is EVO III because people do swap out front diff ratios.
Or perhaps the transfer case and rear diff were changed to EVO III items to suit the EVO III gearbox. Maybe there's a mix-match everywhere?
Best to physically pull down the gearbox, whilst checking for damage count the number of teeth on the front diff crownwheel, check the tooth count of the transfer case and the rear diff also.
That way you'll know 100% for certain what running gear the car is using so you dont buy or put something back in that doesnt match up to the rest of the drivetrain.
Perhaps the transfer case is 1.09 from an EVO I/II and the rear diff is still from an EVO I-III.
Best to be safe than sorry again :)
 
he told me, he was counting the teeths or something similar to that.
and mentioning how the diffs werent lining up, honestly i was lost when he was mentioning these letters.
if yous are keen to know, ill call him tomorrow and ask him.

he also said, when he was driving, he'd put it into neutral and the car wanted to stop.
 

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