CLuTZ
Diamonds are forever....
What exactly do you want to know? I would be swapping the ECU out first and seeing if that fixes the problem. If not, then replace ignitor and see how you go
My HSGR Lives / Dies / Lives / Dies again and again
- Thread starter penngwyne
- Start date
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penngwyne
Well-Known Member
Good call
The ECU has gone to Melbourne for a repair. It was sending pulses out at the wrong time.
I have been waiting for it to happen. Lucky again it was in my driveway and not halfway to Adelaide.
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
OK so it wasn't the ECU, which has been run on a test rig and found OK
Put back in and still wouldn't start
After much probing testing and wiggling final fix was to re-tension the ignition output terminals at the ECU (I assume pins 10 & 23) and apply anti-vibration gel.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed but it's going OK now. At least the fault stayed on and a decent reason was found.
I'm really pleased to have it back.
PITA not having a car in the country and borrowing wife's or son's.
Put back in and still wouldn't start
After much probing testing and wiggling final fix was to re-tension the ignition output terminals at the ECU (I assume pins 10 & 23) and apply anti-vibration gel.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed but it's going OK now. At least the fault stayed on and a decent reason was found.
I'm really pleased to have it back.
PITA not having a car in the country and borrowing wife's or son's.
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
Unless I have incorrectly reset my trip meter it just did 200km on 31 litres of fuel around town
Usually gets through 40 litres for this distance
The worst I had around town was 250 k out of a tankful
Although I have been driving like a Granny and had the O/D locked out
Still it never made much difference what I did or how i drove before.
I look forward to next trip out on the road to see what happens
Usually gets through 40 litres for this distance
The worst I had around town was 250 k out of a tankful
Although I have been driving like a Granny and had the O/D locked out
Still it never made much difference what I did or how i drove before.
I look forward to next trip out on the road to see what happens
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
HMM1 250 Km on 30 litres on trip up the road at and back; at highway speeds.
That's a bit better than before.
That's a bit better than before.
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
Swear words are beyond me at the moment
Have lost the spark on cylinders 2 & 3 BUGGERIT!
Will have to do some more probing and testing.
I really haven't got time for this!
Swapping parts would be good but a bit hard to come by down here.
I probably don't understand but could there be an intermittent fault somewhere else?
CAS ?
If it floods how hard is it to clear?
Have lost the spark on cylinders 2 & 3 BUGGERIT!
Will have to do some more probing and testing.
I really haven't got time for this!
Swapping parts would be good but a bit hard to come by down here.
I probably don't understand but could there be an intermittent fault somewhere else?
CAS ?
If it floods how hard is it to clear?
CLuTZ
Diamonds are forever....
Have you swapped out the ignitor or a coil pack?
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
Seems there is no signal coming out of the ECU to fire the ignitor
I would like to try substituting but bits to swap are a bit rare out here in the sticks
Without accurate circuit diagrams it's a bit hard to work out
It's also hard to prove input signals to ecu also without some swish testing gear.
I keep asking if it could be a crankshaft or a cam sensor but am assured it isn't
Hmm!!??
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
OK ECU checked again and could not be faulted
Desperately need a Crank Angle Sensor. MD300101
Anybody got one??
Only other place I can see one is on amazon
or special order from dealer @ $190
Starting to get withdrawal symptoms from not driving.
Desperately need a Crank Angle Sensor. MD300101
Anybody got one??
Only other place I can see one is on amazon
or special order from dealer @ $190
Starting to get withdrawal symptoms from not driving.
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
Sensor coming from USA about $80
Right part number hope it is OK
Old sensor covered in crap and old coolant
My fingers are crossed>
Right part number hope it is OK
Old sensor covered in crap and old coolant
My fingers are crossed>
brendanshort
Donating Members
Good luck! I know the feeling of not being able to drive. My RVR sat for 6 months with a smashed gearbox before I could get it fixed..
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
Crank angle sensor replaced and running again
I'm pretty sure that will make it the reliable car I want
Then I can start doing a couple of things
Change the oik first
I'm pretty sure that will make it the reliable car I want
Then I can start doing a couple of things
Change the oik first
brendanshort
Donating Members
I've had one of the stock rubber intakes to the turbo deform during boost causing strange acceleration issues. My HSGR loves to test me too 
Fingers crossed you have your problem fixed. I'm now looking to get a suspension issue repaired. I have just moved to a new city, so that makes it all the more interesting.
Fingers crossed you have your problem fixed. I'm now looking to get a suspension issue repaired. I have just moved to a new city, so that makes it all the more interesting.
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
I've had one of the stock rubber intakes to the turbo deform during boost causing strange acceleration issues. My HSGR loves to test me too
Fingers crossed you have your problem fixed. I'm now looking to get a suspension issue repaired. I have just moved to a new city, so that makes it all the more interesting.
Yes it's running OK ATM
I will be taking a trip to Adelaide soon to test it out.
Having read many posts both here and on Bimmer forums it certainly sounds like we may have it fixed
but knowing how hard intermittent faults are to track down
I'm not ready to say "I told you so" to the my local mech (who is a mate and has been nice to me)
At least there are a lot more RVR's around Brisbane there than there are down here in the deep south
So better possibilities to get bits I would hope?
gee this post has gone on for sometime! firstly, if you get a check engine light, best thing to do is check the codes! coils on these engines can not throw a code, so helps rule them out.
obviously your over some problems.
secondly i live in adelaide, have played with several rvr's and motor setups for them, and do have some spares around too. so if you need anything let me know. also happen to run a import place that can send gear easy to your "deep south" location!
obviously your over some problems.
secondly i live in adelaide, have played with several rvr's and motor setups for them, and do have some spares around too. so if you need anything let me know. also happen to run a import place that can send gear easy to your "deep south" location!
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the info I will keep you in mind
Yes it has been something of an epic
The codes we originally got made very little sense
and then it all came good
and did it again and came good
and again and came good after some looking at the ECU and wriggling wires
and finally again and didn't come good until the CAS was replaced so fingers crossed
Each time after a number of weeks or even months
So I'm waiting to see how it goes. BUT I WILL PREVAIL!
Yes it has been something of an epic
The codes we originally got made very little sense
and then it all came good
and did it again and came good
and again and came good after some looking at the ECU and wriggling wires
and finally again and didn't come good until the CAS was replaced so fingers crossed
Each time after a number of weeks or even months
So I'm waiting to see how it goes. BUT I WILL PREVAIL!
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
French Connection UK Maybe it hates me??
OK the Crank sensor was good for about a week!
Same symptoms as first time check engine light then no start after turning it off
Again lucky it's in my carport,
I don't have access to evoscan (yet) but I have a laptop.
The ECU has been on a test rig twice with no fault found
Could it be the MAF or the camshaft sensor?
Is it possible the after market Crank sensor has died? How do I test it?
Heater hose has been leaking onto the temp sensor and I notice the outer cover of that loom has crumbled (?)
If none of these then maybe I have a wiring problem.. I'll do it myself this time it's getting too expensive otherwise.
.
OK the Crank sensor was good for about a week!
Same symptoms as first time check engine light then no start after turning it off
Again lucky it's in my carport,
I don't have access to evoscan (yet) but I have a laptop.
The ECU has been on a test rig twice with no fault found
Could it be the MAF or the camshaft sensor?
Is it possible the after market Crank sensor has died? How do I test it?
Heater hose has been leaking onto the temp sensor and I notice the outer cover of that loom has crumbled (?)
If none of these then maybe I have a wiring problem.. I'll do it myself this time it's getting too expensive otherwise.
.
p055um5
Well-Known Member
How is your exhaust sytem, I had the catalytic converter callapse inside and stopped the engine running properly, sometimes would sometimes wouldn't backfires splutters etc..
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
Many people are saying get rid of her she's no good
but you know how it is
anyway who else but me would want her the way she is.. Extremely Bi-Polar
But jokes aside I have been reading forums all over and haven't seen anything quite like this.
Does anyone know of an electrical circuit diagram specifically for the HSGR?
It would be good to know what else can inhibit the spark
I may have a broken wire somewhere and I need a wiring diagram
I have a space runner/space wagon electrical wiring but I reckon it might be a bit different
Any ideas short of parting it out?
Mal
but you know how it is
anyway who else but me would want her the way she is.. Extremely Bi-Polar
But jokes aside I have been reading forums all over and haven't seen anything quite like this.
Does anyone know of an electrical circuit diagram specifically for the HSGR?
It would be good to know what else can inhibit the spark
I may have a broken wire somewhere and I need a wiring diagram
I have a space runner/space wagon electrical wiring but I reckon it might be a bit different
Any ideas short of parting it out?
Mal
penngwyne
Well-Known Member
More reading
I have tested the voltages at the camshaft sensor 3 pin plug
From the harness side all looks good with ignition on Ground at 1 12v at 3 and around 4v at pin 2
With everything plugged in at pin 2 the voltage does not vary while cranking\
The book says 0-4v I assume this means varying from 0 to 4?
If so I may have found the problem!
Does anyone know what resistance reading between pins 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 ??
Local Mitsi dealer wants $236 for sensor but I can have it tomorrow. Expensive if I am wrong.
Same thing from US about $88 + postage and time.
I have tested the voltages at the camshaft sensor 3 pin plug
From the harness side all looks good with ignition on Ground at 1 12v at 3 and around 4v at pin 2
With everything plugged in at pin 2 the voltage does not vary while cranking\
The book says 0-4v I assume this means varying from 0 to 4?
If so I may have found the problem!
Does anyone know what resistance reading between pins 1-2, 1-3, 2-3 ??
Local Mitsi dealer wants $236 for sensor but I can have it tomorrow. Expensive if I am wrong.
Same thing from US about $88 + postage and time.
