My HSGR Lives / Dies / Lives / Dies again and again

4GTuner

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Bits arrived today (25/11) about 3pm ! Not bad FedEx!

Plugged in the cam sensor and after grumbling for a bit the ECU caught up with what was going on
and it is running sweet as and was immediately driven to relieve my withdrawal symptoms.

So there you go! I suspect the crank sensor and cam sensor were both a bit tired (after 120K)
But the possibility is that it was the cam sensor all the time.

I found the info in the 1999 space runner / space wagon manual (PWDE9803) in the fuel section (13)

Maybe I should have ordered a couple of spares? (I might still do that yet!)

Fingers crossed that will be the end of the problems

Oh except for the leaking heater hose I have to fix!

Anyway I hope someone will find this info useful and I hope I don't have to post any more into this thread / saga!
 
No No No NO NO NO
That was not it apparently it died at lunch time

EM light and no start later turned into starts and runs but at a slow rough idle then stops .
When I get it going I( can drive it but it has occasional hesitations.
Maybe I have a number of faults OR could it be an earthing problem??

I am now officially starting to get a teensy bit desperate!!!!

I HATE intermittent faults. I know about them because I worked in telephone exchanges for more years than I want to admit.

Wish I could get some accurate wiring info for the HSGR

Bright side -- Had the cooling system cleaned out this morning. In preparation yesterday ran several radiators full of clean rainwater through it
Was amazed at the gunk that came out and kept on coming out. Now full of nice new GM coolant (red stuff)

Man also found another leaky hose and a stuffed radiator cap (which was brand new genuine Mitsubishi about 20.000 Km ago) so that has probably saved me an expensive and inconvenient pile of steam escaping.
 
is the engine loom that different to the evo or vr4. i know they may have different colours and so on, but surely the ecu pin outs are similar to one or the other. anyway, 90% will be the same, just have to trace the last few wires.

i am not jealous at all of your issues. good luck
 
I think ECU pinouts are very close to evo3 but I am looking at space runner / wagon circuit diagrams
(late at night after a meeting)(or maybe early morning)


I note that octane selection, det sensor,Engine control relay,ECU, Power transistor,Crank angle sensor and cam angle sensor all have the same earth point (number 5)


I wonder?? I will be looking to see if I can find it in the morning as a starting point.
If it's the same as the space wagon it will be in the centre of the bulkhead in the engine bay. Fingers crossed.

 
jack of all said:
is the engine loom that different to the evo or vr4. i know they may have different colours and so on, but surely the ecu pin outs are similar to one or the other. anyway, 90% will be the same, just have to trace the last few wires.

i am not jealous at all of your issues. good luck
Click to expand...

Thanks I will get there. I need this car to be reliable
I am sure it is fixable and will prove to be something so simple we will all laugh about it.... maybe...later?
 
Wouldn't you know it!
Started and ran perfectly this morning, no hiccups at all.

If I unplug the cam sensor it makes no difference to the running or starting just gives an EM light

Someone somewhere must have seen a problem like this

If I had an ECU I could swap it but then how will I know as the fault is so intermittent.and its OK now!

Yesterday when driving back it had an occasional EM light and engine loss but picked up again
When I stopped it was buggered again

I got a parking ticket too to add insult to injury

However as it was a break down the nice man at the council let me off!
 
QIK-247 said:
i have an rvr ecu here as i now run an autronic if you need another?
Click to expand...

How much would you like for that? You could PM me.


Problem is I don't know if it is the ECu??
ATM it's OK but would be nice to have one to swap if/when it dies again.

After the original second fail it took weeks before it spit again.

I have found a couple of repaired wires in the camshaft loom that I have to investigate more closely But they look OK from the outside, (almost too good)
 
This might be a long shot but could it be your idle air control valve sticking?

These RVRs were made to run on Japanese 100 octane fuel. If you use a lower octane fuel your IAC will clog up with carbon causing your engine to just die or idle high when warm then cut out and not start when warm.

Pull it out and have a look at it. And you could electrically test it.

Cheers, Leon
 
Leon said:
This might be a long shot but could it be your idle air control valve sticking?

These RVRs were made to run on Japanese 100 octane fuel. If you use a lower octane fuel your IAC will clog up with carbon causing your engine to just die or idle high when warm then cut out and not start when warm.

Pull it out and have a look at it. And you could electrically test it.

Cheers, Leon
Click to expand...



ATM I run it on Shell 98 'coz that's the highest I can get round here

If I can work out where the ICV it is I will have a look

I'm also considering giving the MAF wires a clean with electrical contact cleaner

Just spent some long days working on son's BMW rear suspension so not feeling very "mechanicy" ATM
 
Well it is still running OK
but I haven't taken it for a trip yet
Haven't checked ICV or MAF


Plan was to clean an re-tension every connector I can find

Interrupted by:

Replacing No2 sons BMW rear axle carrier mounts and other suspension bits (as above)
(you should see the bush replacing tool we made)

Daughters Camry overheating and cracking cylinder head
Deja vu as I was doing the same thing to No2 son's BMW same time last year.
Camry didn't take as long to fix but was a b..h to work on. more room in the Bimmer
(NB. Running on 2 or 3 cylinders for 300 Km causes rust to burn off the exhaust pipe and melted the mat in the boot)
(Nother NB Camrys are tough!)

Also interrupted by helping No1 son (Doom machine) put a LSD in his Chaser.
(Two wooden spoons proved helpful in aligning the crown wheel bolt holes)

I can see where the labour goes into your mechanics bill.

All in all an interesting Xmas/ New Year period.
 
I think you need to tell us what you have replaced and what you haven't....

I can almost guarantee that your issue is something that someone has already told you to replace.

If you haven't replaced your AFM or ECU already then you should have! :)
 
CLuTZ said:
I think you need to tell us what you have replaced and what you haven't....

I can almost guarantee that your issue is something that someone has already told you to replace.

If you haven't replaced your AFM or ECU already then you should have! :)
Click to expand...



ECU has been to Melbourne twice for testing.
First time ECU was tested mech thought wiggling the connectors on the ecu was causing a problem so he tensioned and cleaned up the socket
They buzzed out the wiring and could not find anything wrong
Second time the ECU was tested plugging it in made no difference (still dead) no matter what wriggling was done
I got a crank sensor and they fitted it for me whoopee it ran beautifully
It died again
The battery was failing, cranking voltage was dropping to 8 volts, so I replaced that (that didn't help)
I tested the output from the cam sensor. No pulses, must be it? Beauty!
Replaced cam sensor and it was OK again and I could see the voltage variation at the sensor output when it was running.
After the last (short) time I took heat shrink off a couple of wires to the cam sensor socket to find perfectly good joiners under them. Re-wrapped the loom and am still waiting for it to die again.

Trouble is it's running perfectly ATM.

My point is if I just replace everything how will I know I have fixed it??
I may replace all to find I still have a problem!
That's the expensive way to do it and I'm not ready to give up yet.

I haven't even been able to replicate the problem by unplugging bits yet, but I probably haven't found all of the plugs !!
 
CLuTZ said:
Try your AFM and then coil packs + ignitor next
Click to expand...

It's a bit hard way down here in the deep south of SA to source parts
And as I said it starts and runs perfectly ATM and has done since November.
So I could swap parts and still have the problem
I really want to identify the problem so that I can have some confidence in the repair

Having said that I am waiting for an ECU to arrive so if it fails again I can swap it straight away.
I still plan to clean all connectors when I get some spare time. Who knows I may find a loose pin somewhere?

I think I will have to get evoscan to log the engine codes
It will probably never fail again if I am watching it.
 

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