Timing Belt Marks

[JAP63]

Firstly...thanks for all the help from everyone posting,im learning alot here,and seeing how **** some peoples work can be....

so when i tension the eccentric cam pulley,i can just insert something like a drill bit into the hole and cam it round till its firm hard up on the belt and then tighten the centre bolt then?
that what you reccomend?

and also...

Does that in essence mean that it is almost impossible to get the Belt tension wrong because the tensioner will always make up for it,the tensioner sets the tension...whilst the position of the eccentric cam pulley that it pushes onto dictates the correct tolerancing and limits of operation....pulley not cammed enough and tensioner comes all the way out....the more you cam the pulley into the belt the less the tensioner will need to extend.

on the right track?

i know you guys are doing one this sunday....

jogging the memory for you's..you reading this Craig!

 

[JAP63]

Firstly...thanks for all the help from everyone posting,im learning alot here,and seeing how **** some peoples work can be....

so when i tension the eccentric cam pulley,i can just insert something like a drill bit into the hole and cam it round till its firm hard up on the belt and then tighten the centre bolt then?
that what you reccomend?

and also...

Does that in essence mean that it is almost impossible to get the Belt tension wrong because the tensioner will always make up for it,the tensioner sets the tension...whilst the position of the eccentric cam pulley that it pushes onto dictates the correct tolerancing and limits of operation....pulley not cammed enough and tensioner comes all the way out....the more you cam the pulley into the belt the less the tensioner will need to extend.

on the right track?

i know you guys are doing one this sunday....

jogging the memory for you's..you reading this Craig!

 

[rob323]

Firstly...thanks for all the help from everyone posting,im learning alot here,and seeing how **** some peoples work can be....

Even Mitsubishi stuffed up a timing belt job on my old vr4.

so when i tension the eccentric cam pulley,i can just insert something like a drill bit into the hole and cam it round till its firm hard up on the belt and then tighten the centre bolt then?
that what you reccomend?

Yep, or use a flat bar to lever it around. I always torque that bolt up to spec and loctite it just for fun. If that bolt ever backs out, bye bye valves.

and also...

Does that in essence mean that it is almost impossible to get the Belt tension wrong because the tensioner will always make up for it,the tensioner sets the tension...whilst the position of the eccentric cam pulley that it pushes onto dictates the correct tolerancing and limits of operation....pulley not cammed enough and tensioner comes all the way out....the more you cam the pulley into the belt the less the tensioner will need to extend.

:wink: Spot on.

on the right track?

i know you guys are doing one this sunday....

jogging the memory for you's..you reading this Craig!

All good fun.

 

[rob323]

Firstly...thanks for all the help from everyone posting,im learning alot here,and seeing how **** some peoples work can be....

Even Mitsubishi stuffed up a timing belt job on my old vr4.

so when i tension the eccentric cam pulley,i can just insert something like a drill bit into the hole and cam it round till its firm hard up on the belt and then tighten the centre bolt then?
that what you reccomend?

Yep, or use a flat bar to lever it around. I always torque that bolt up to spec and loctite it just for fun. If that bolt ever backs out, bye bye valves.

and also...

Does that in essence mean that it is almost impossible to get the Belt tension wrong because the tensioner will always make up for it,the tensioner sets the tension...whilst the position of the eccentric cam pulley that it pushes onto dictates the correct tolerancing and limits of operation....pulley not cammed enough and tensioner comes all the way out....the more you cam the pulley into the belt the less the tensioner will need to extend.

:wink: Spot on.

on the right track?

i know you guys are doing one this sunday....

jogging the memory for you's..you reading this Craig!

All good fun.

 

[rob323]

Firstly...thanks for all the help from everyone posting,im learning alot here,and seeing how **** some peoples work can be....

Even Mitsubishi stuffed up a timing belt job on my old vr4.

so when i tension the eccentric cam pulley,i can just insert something like a drill bit into the hole and cam it round till its firm hard up on the belt and then tighten the centre bolt then?
that what you reccomend?

Yep, or use a flat bar to lever it around. I always torque that bolt up to spec and loctite it just for fun. If that bolt ever backs out, bye bye valves.

and also...

Does that in essence mean that it is almost impossible to get the Belt tension wrong because the tensioner will always make up for it,the tensioner sets the tension...whilst the position of the eccentric cam pulley that it pushes onto dictates the correct tolerancing and limits of operation....pulley not cammed enough and tensioner comes all the way out....the more you cam the pulley into the belt the less the tensioner will need to extend.

:wink: Spot on.

on the right track?

i know you guys are doing one this sunday....

jogging the memory for you's..you reading this Craig!

All good fun.

 

[to4garret]

i bent up a dinner for to move my tensioner pulley around.

and to set the auto tensioner, the easist way i found, which doesnt involve measuring anything,

adjust the tensioner pulley, back out special tool, wait ten minutes, rotate engine six times, then go to pull out the locking pin in the auto tensioner, if you have to pull the pin out then its not set right.

repeat the above steps, loosing or tightening the tensioner pulley until the locking pin in the auto tensioner removes easily. i.e. just slides out without any effort, like its loose.

that keeps you in spec without mucking around measuring etc, takes a while but you'll get it spot on, took me about 8 goes to get it right, but now i can get it everytime.

 

[to4garret]

i bent up a dinner for to move my tensioner pulley around.

and to set the auto tensioner, the easist way i found, which doesnt involve measuring anything,

adjust the tensioner pulley, back out special tool, wait ten minutes, rotate engine six times, then go to pull out the locking pin in the auto tensioner, if you have to pull the pin out then its not set right.

repeat the above steps, loosing or tightening the tensioner pulley until the locking pin in the auto tensioner removes easily. i.e. just slides out without any effort, like its loose.

that keeps you in spec without mucking around measuring etc, takes a while but you'll get it spot on, took me about 8 goes to get it right, but now i can get it everytime.

 

[to4garret]

i bent up a dinner for to move my tensioner pulley around.

and to set the auto tensioner, the easist way i found, which doesnt involve measuring anything,

adjust the tensioner pulley, back out special tool, wait ten minutes, rotate engine six times, then go to pull out the locking pin in the auto tensioner, if you have to pull the pin out then its not set right.

repeat the above steps, loosing or tightening the tensioner pulley until the locking pin in the auto tensioner removes easily. i.e. just slides out without any effort, like its loose.

that keeps you in spec without mucking around measuring etc, takes a while but you'll get it spot on, took me about 8 goes to get it right, but now i can get it everytime.

 

[EVO-00X]

Thanks for sorting that out Rob and I agree 100% . If your pin extended 9mm out from the auto tensior it's not good at all and you were risking belt slippage and ultimately engine failure. What I was talking about beforehand was that you can place a spacer under the arm to push the tensioner pulley so it places tension on the belt, then tighten the tensioner pully - you'll know what I mean when you have it in front of you :lol:

 

[EVO-00X]

Thanks for sorting that out Rob and I agree 100% . If your pin extended 9mm out from the auto tensior it's not good at all and you were risking belt slippage and ultimately engine failure. What I was talking about beforehand was that you can place a spacer under the arm to push the tensioner pulley so it places tension on the belt, then tighten the tensioner pully - you'll know what I mean when you have it in front of you :lol:

 

[EVO-00X]

Thanks for sorting that out Rob and I agree 100% . If your pin extended 9mm out from the auto tensior it's not good at all and you were risking belt slippage and ultimately engine failure. What I was talking about beforehand was that you can place a spacer under the arm to push the tensioner pulley so it places tension on the belt, then tighten the tensioner pully - you'll know what I mean when you have it in front of you :lol:

 

[JAP63]

Thanks for sorting that out Rob and I agree 100% . If your pin extended 9mm out from the auto tensior it's not good at all and you were risking belt slippage and ultimately engine failure. What I was talking about beforehand was that you can place a spacer under the arm to push the tensioner pulley so it places tension on the belt, then tighten the tensioner pully - you'll know what I mean when you have it in front of you :lol:

yeah i know what you mean..something with the right gap to hold weight/load on it while you do it up... yeah..

thanks...

 

[JAP63]

Thanks for sorting that out Rob and I agree 100% . If your pin extended 9mm out from the auto tensior it's not good at all and you were risking belt slippage and ultimately engine failure. What I was talking about beforehand was that you can place a spacer under the arm to push the tensioner pulley so it places tension on the belt, then tighten the tensioner pully - you'll know what I mean when you have it in front of you :lol:

yeah i know what you mean..something with the right gap to hold weight/load on it while you do it up... yeah..

thanks...

 

[JAP63]

Thanks for sorting that out Rob and I agree 100% . If your pin extended 9mm out from the auto tensior it's not good at all and you were risking belt slippage and ultimately engine failure. What I was talking about beforehand was that you can place a spacer under the arm to push the tensioner pulley so it places tension on the belt, then tighten the tensioner pully - you'll know what I mean when you have it in front of you :lol:

yeah i know what you mean..something with the right gap to hold weight/load on it while you do it up... yeah..

thanks...

 

[JAP63]

adjust the tensioner pulley, back out special tool, wait ten minutes, rotate engine six times, then go to pull out the locking pin in the auto tensioner, if you have to pull the pin out then its not set right.

So your saying wind the threaded bar in until the tensioning arm has moved all the way down onto the hydraulic tension unit...then cam the pulley onto the belt with fork or watever you have..lock centre bolt up...then back threaded rod out...rotate motor 6 times or back to Cyl 1. TDC..then the pin should come out of the hydraulic tension unit with ease..because the tensioning arm is already sitting on it....and after the tensioner settles (15 min) it will be within spec.

I see you said wait ten minutes between removing the threaded rod and rotating,is that because the tension arm is already contacting the tensioner pin? it wont be able to move or creep with the allen key in it though anyway.

Did i get it right?

 

[JAP63]

adjust the tensioner pulley, back out special tool, wait ten minutes, rotate engine six times, then go to pull out the locking pin in the auto tensioner, if you have to pull the pin out then its not set right.

So your saying wind the threaded bar in until the tensioning arm has moved all the way down onto the hydraulic tension unit...then cam the pulley onto the belt with fork or watever you have..lock centre bolt up...then back threaded rod out...rotate motor 6 times or back to Cyl 1. TDC..then the pin should come out of the hydraulic tension unit with ease..because the tensioning arm is already sitting on it....and after the tensioner settles (15 min) it will be within spec.

I see you said wait ten minutes between removing the threaded rod and rotating,is that because the tension arm is already contacting the tensioner pin? it wont be able to move or creep with the allen key in it though anyway.

Did i get it right?

 

[JAP63]

adjust the tensioner pulley, back out special tool, wait ten minutes, rotate engine six times, then go to pull out the locking pin in the auto tensioner, if you have to pull the pin out then its not set right.

So your saying wind the threaded bar in until the tensioning arm has moved all the way down onto the hydraulic tension unit...then cam the pulley onto the belt with fork or watever you have..lock centre bolt up...then back threaded rod out...rotate motor 6 times or back to Cyl 1. TDC..then the pin should come out of the hydraulic tension unit with ease..because the tensioning arm is already sitting on it....and after the tensioner settles (15 min) it will be within spec.

I see you said wait ten minutes between removing the threaded rod and rotating,is that because the tension arm is already contacting the tensioner pin? it wont be able to move or creep with the allen key in it though anyway.

Did i get it right?

 

[to4garret]

So your saying wind the threaded bar in until the tensioning arm has moved all the way down onto the hydraulic tension unit...then cam the pulley onto the belt with fork or watever you have..lock centre bolt up...then back threaded rod out...rotate motor 6 times or back to Cyl 1. TDC..then the pin should come out of the hydraulic tension unit with ease..because the tensioning arm is already sitting on it....and after the tensioner settles (15 min) it will be within spec.

sorry, i got a bit a head of myself, you set the tensioner pulley, remove the pin, wait 15mins for the auto tensioner to expand out, rotate the motor 6 times to TDC again, then use the Auto Tensioners pin to slide into the Auto Tensioner, if the pin slides in all the way and out all the way easily, the tension is correct.

it will take you a few times to get it right.

I see you said wait ten minutes between removing the threaded rod and rotating,is that because the tension arm is already contacting the tensioner pin? it wont be able to move or creep with the allen key in it though anyway.
Did i get it right?

see what i said above, lol

 

[to4garret]

So your saying wind the threaded bar in until the tensioning arm has moved all the way down onto the hydraulic tension unit...then cam the pulley onto the belt with fork or watever you have..lock centre bolt up...then back threaded rod out...rotate motor 6 times or back to Cyl 1. TDC..then the pin should come out of the hydraulic tension unit with ease..because the tensioning arm is already sitting on it....and after the tensioner settles (15 min) it will be within spec.

sorry, i got a bit a head of myself, you set the tensioner pulley, remove the pin, wait 15mins for the auto tensioner to expand out, rotate the motor 6 times to TDC again, then use the Auto Tensioners pin to slide into the Auto Tensioner, if the pin slides in all the way and out all the way easily, the tension is correct.

it will take you a few times to get it right.

I see you said wait ten minutes between removing the threaded rod and rotating,is that because the tension arm is already contacting the tensioner pin? it wont be able to move or creep with the allen key in it though anyway.
Did i get it right?

see what i said above, lol

 

[to4garret]

So your saying wind the threaded bar in until the tensioning arm has moved all the way down onto the hydraulic tension unit...then cam the pulley onto the belt with fork or watever you have..lock centre bolt up...then back threaded rod out...rotate motor 6 times or back to Cyl 1. TDC..then the pin should come out of the hydraulic tension unit with ease..because the tensioning arm is already sitting on it....and after the tensioner settles (15 min) it will be within spec.

sorry, i got a bit a head of myself, you set the tensioner pulley, remove the pin, wait 15mins for the auto tensioner to expand out, rotate the motor 6 times to TDC again, then use the Auto Tensioners pin to slide into the Auto Tensioner, if the pin slides in all the way and out all the way easily, the tension is correct.

it will take you a few times to get it right.

I see you said wait ten minutes between removing the threaded rod and rotating,is that because the tension arm is already contacting the tensioner pin? it wont be able to move or creep with the allen key in it though anyway.
Did i get it right?

see what i said above, lol